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Old 07-01-2011, 03:42 PM   #1
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Is there any way to make this setup California Carb Legal?

- Jason
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Old 12-13-2012, 05:54 AM   #2
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So awesome... In maybe a year or 2 i will also have a supercharger...
ON A 1.0 3 CYLINDER ENGINE (1KR-FE)

Yeah :3
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Old 12-15-2012, 09:32 PM   #3
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*sigh* can't wait to join the club.
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Old 12-18-2012, 04:30 PM   #4
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*sigh* can't wait to join the club.
+1....
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Old 12-19-2012, 08:33 PM   #5
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that's so sick. i wish superchargers were a common thing here, as i hate everyone saying Turbo here. personally i think the superchargers are the middle ground for NA and turbo, or best of both worlds.

unfortunately here in the philippines supercharger are soooooo rare, thus maintenance would be a PITA.

good post scott! always been a fan of your work!
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Old 01-09-2013, 02:01 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by jcboy View Post
that's so sick. i wish superchargers were a common thing here, as i hate everyone saying Turbo here. personally i think the superchargers are the middle ground for NA and turbo, or best of both worlds.

unfortunately here in the philippines supercharger are soooooo rare, thus maintenance would be a PITA.

good post scott! always been a fan of your work!
You get less gas mileage because the supercharger is always going ( well not always, as the blitz does have a clutch) and a small turbo tuned right can do the same thing a supercharger can but get better gas mileage and more power. It would just cost more. And be more of a hassle.

But Philippines? isn't that the land of dirt cheap labor costs?
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Old 03-13-2013, 04:14 PM   #7
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You get less gas mileage because the supercharger is always going ( well not always, as the blitz does have a clutch) and a small turbo tuned right can do the same thing a supercharger can but get better gas mileage and more power. It would just cost more. And be more of a hassle.

But Philippines? isn't that the land of dirt cheap labor costs?

Well, commodities and services cost a lot there in the US, but you earn big money too. Here commodities and services are dirt-cheap compared to there, but people earn a looot lower than people there. Although the cost-of-living-to-salary ratio is lower compared to what you have, unfortunately it is still not considered affordable since as non-necessities such as car tuning (as compared to house repair) are charged incredibly high.

FYI, A decent paint "washover" can go as low as $500 including labor and paint and all. a $600 paint job is already superb, an $800 paint job is carshow quality already, probably with pocket change.
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:32 AM   #8
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I have only seen the Yaris Blitz Kits that include just the one tensioner pulley.

For belt length, get it mounted, move the tensioner pulley to its end of travel where the distance around the pulleys would be the shortest, and then wrap a piece of non-stretchy rope around the belt path. Mark the length, measure it, and then look for a 6 or 8 rib belt as close to that measurement as possible. Since you will be working from the shortest length, with the position of the tensioner pulley, only go up in belt length to meet a standard one. You can go up to an inch longer to have the belt still be in the range that the tensioner will work with.
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:32 PM   #9
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My yaris was supercharged, no a/c.

Gatorback part # 040560

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Old 01-08-2013, 02:17 AM   #10
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When you add a modification like this does it put a lot of extra wear and tear on the motor?
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Old 01-08-2013, 02:32 PM   #11
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With any changes to the air/fuel ratio and flow to an engine there is the potential for damage. A person over on the Micro Image forum recently damaged his engine with use of a Rotrex supercharger. He didn't mention how much boost he was running, as compared with the 6 PSI of the Blitz, but even the Blitz can do damage if the engine is allowed to run too lean.
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Old 01-08-2013, 02:41 PM   #12
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Quote:
unfortunately here in the philippines supercharger are soooooo rare, thus maintenance would be a PITA.
Installed correctly, there is no additional maintenance.
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:12 AM   #13
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^ Blitz used to mark the fuel controller for manual or auto transmission, though. I have no idea what the difference in tuning might have been.
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:15 PM   #14
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That wiring is all correct for the Yaris. How did you make your connections (tap splices, solder, etc.)?
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Old 05-07-2013, 06:56 PM   #15
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CT, do you by chance have any pictures of your soldering process? I'm not 100% sure how to strip the insulation on the OEM harness w/out cutting any of the wires. Small torch?

I soldered the lights on my trailer last weekend and it was a pretty big pain trying to hold both wires steady enough to get the solder to set. In addition, I ended up cutting the wire that was being spliced in to so that I could get the heat shrink over just those two wires. There were a few stray strands that got nicked by the wire stripper, but I'm not as concerned with trailer lights as I am with the ignition wiring.
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Old 05-07-2013, 07:13 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan View Post
CT, do you by chance have any pictures of your soldering process? I'm not 100% sure how to strip the insulation on the OEM harness w/out cutting any of the wires. Small torch?

I soldered the lights on my trailer last weekend and it was a pretty big pain trying to hold both wires steady enough to get the solder to set. In addition, I ended up cutting the wire that was being spliced in to so that I could get the heat shrink over just those two wires. There were a few stray strands that got nicked by the wire stripper, but I'm not as concerned with trailer lights as I am with the ignition wiring.

I didn't take pictures of that process, but I typically do inline soldering by either of two methods:


Stripping the wire:

1. Strip and smush - Take the wire to connect to, cut through the jacket with a wire stripper (one that has separate holes for each wire size, to prevent cutting the strands). Once you are through the jacket, push the stripper along the wire towards the longer side of the wire (i.e. away from the nearest connector). You can typically get 1/2" to 1" of access to the bare wire by doing this.

2. Carve the insulation - Using a hobby knife (or the stripper above and hobby knife), ring the insulate at two points about 1/2" apart, and then slit between the two rings to remove the section of insulation.


Soldering:

Wrap your wire to attach around the exposed wire, heat the two wires with a soldering iron, and wick the solder into both. Then, a wrap of electrical tape or a shrinkable tape seals the deal.
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Old 05-08-2013, 08:02 AM   #17
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^Now that you mention it, I think I have one of those around here...
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Old 08-24-2025, 03:30 AM   #18
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@TOLMACH Thanks for sharing that diagram. Saved the day!
Was shipped a used Blitz with the NCP91 kit, but has the xB Fuel Controller. Couldn't find the proper wiring diagram, until I found your old post.
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