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[ROCKLANDTOYOTA]

conversion charts reads 140......

[Jason@SportsCar]

It's alive... Finally got around to starting it up with the new motor. Now we just need to get it back on the dyno, then out to the track.

[thebarber]

Originally Posted by Jason@SportsCar

It's alive... Finally got around to starting it up with the new motor. Now we just need to get it back on the dyno, then out to the track.

are you allowed to post dyno sheets? if you are, could you?

[Jason@SportsCar]

What should I do with this? Approx 2k miles on everything except the head and fuel injectors, which have about half that.

My plan is to keep the head, we have a lot of work in to it, and may want to revisit it later.

[Jason@SportsCar]

New parts are fun. Beatrush crank pulley. Hopefully a bit more durable than the last piece we had. Unfortunately, it's not an under drive unit, and it is a bit heavier than the last one, but if I don't have to pick up the pieces on the side of the track it will be worth it.

Stock 3lbs
Beatrush 1lb 4oz

[Jason@SportsCar]

Got a lot done this weekend... Corner weights set, alignment set, old engine torn down.

Little by little I have been working to pull more weight out of the car, purging the wiring harness, cutting more metal out of the doors. The payoff, 1814lbs with a 1/4 tank of fuel. There is not much left to drop, I have not installed the new crank pulley, and there is still some undercoating left, likely less than 5lbs total. I can't find the exact number, but I think the car has lost over 500lbs since we got it - and it didn't have interior to begin with.




And there's your problem... All season long the car has been using a little bit of water. Never enough to show up in the oil pan, and no oil was making it's way into the radiator. Turns out the coating on both sides of the head gasket had failed. Every head bolt came out with milky oil on it. We can only speculate, but we think this happen at the Runoffs last Sept, when the crank pulley failed and I had to nurse the car around the track with none of the accessories running. The temp never spiked on the gauge, but nothing was circulating in the engine. This could have gotten the head hot enough to damage the gasket.



Now this is just wacky... The old water pump, only 2k miles on it, has a crack in the impeller. No idea what would have caused that, never gave any hint that it had a problem, still worked perfect last time we ran the car.

[markitect]

Originally Posted by Jason@SportsCar

Now this is just wacky... The old water pump, only 2k miles on it, has a crack in the impeller. No idea what would have caused that, never gave any hint that it had a problem, still worked perfect last time we ran the car.

I actually got my water pump replaced under warranty yesterday. I didn't get to take pictures but from what the technician said the crack was similar to yours, but when all the way up.

At this point the only symptom was that when you reduced the throttle there was a slight grinding noise. My guess is that it cracks in such a way that when your reducing the engine speed pressure builds up behind it causing the crack to expand, and the impeller to rub.

Mine has 32k miles on it, but I'm guessing the crack starts the same way, so suddenly lifting the pedal might be the cause, which I'm guessing you do a lot, and at high RPMs while racing.

[Jason@SportsCar]

Originally Posted by ROCKLANDTOYOTA

conversion charts reads 140......

And unfortunately as advertized it does open at 140. I had hoped that it might have been a math/conversion/marketing error, because who would need one that cold? But that was not the case. Oh well.