Anyone pulled their power steering fuse?

[CrankyOldMan]

Originally Posted by CTScott

It is amazing how much more complicated this gets trying to do it with analog, rather than digital.

Why would this be the case? There are a few additional passive components that need to be added around the F/V and comparator, but it seems to be fairly straightforward. Is it a matter of getting a comparator that has enough hysteresis to prevent noise around the switching point from making the output fluctuate? Sorry if those aren't the right terms, I just looked some of this up.

I looked at the EWD and the power steering is already throttled by the ECU based on speed and the torque sensor. According to p 176 of the EWD:

* In order to reduce driver’s steering force, the assist current is calculated from the torque sensor signal and vehicle speed
signal of the meter or CAN communication to output to the motor.

∗ When abnormality occurs in the system, the assist is prohibited by shutting off the power source relay and motor relay in
ECU, and the warning light (P/S) in the meter is lit up.

So if we were to ever crack the ECU, we could in theory change the control algorithm. It seems strange that removing the fuse doesn't turn on the (P/S) light.

[Jason@SportsCar]

I like elec power steering. It rocked in my RX-8, made it one of the most pleasurable cars to autox - past cars I raced with traditional systems always struggled to keep up, our Corvette use to puke power steering parts regularly.

I think the system in the Yaris works great. In the GT/B-Spec cars it works seamlessly, I had no problem on the track with it.

I hated the H Prod car when we first started racing it... Due to some hacked wiring the system never worked, and with a 10" wide slick the car was a beast, always fighting you in the turns. However, with time we were able to work out some of the steering bind, making it easier to drive. Ditching the elec motor and the stock column made it much easier to turn (still not as good as the EPS system), and it actually dropped a good bit of weight.

No brainier for me, in a street car I would keep it.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Jason@SportsCar

I like elec power steering. It rocked in my RX-8, made it one of the most pleasurable cars to autox - past cars I raced with traditional systems always struggled to keep up, our Corvette use to puke power steering parts regularly.

I think the system in the Yaris works great. In the GT/B-Spec cars it works seamlessly, I had no problem on the track with it.

I hated the H Prod car when we first started racing it... Due to some hacked wiring the system never worked, and with a 10" wide slick the car was a beast, always fighting you in the turns. However, with time we were able to work out some of the steering bind, making it easier to drive. Ditching the elec motor and the stock column made it much easier to turn (still not as good as the EPS system), and it actually dropped a good bit of weight.

No brainier for me, in a street car I would keep it.

It actually sounds like it is better for track than street. The primary complaint about the EPS is how it induces wander at highway speed.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan

Why would this be the case? There are a few additional passive components that need to be added around the F/V and comparator, but it seems to be fairly straightforward. Is it a matter of getting a comparator that has enough hysteresis to prevent noise around the switching point from making the output fluctuate? Sorry if those aren't the right terms, I just looked some of this up.

I looked at the EWD and the power steering is already throttled by the ECU based on speed and the torque sensor. According to p 176 of the EWD:


So if we were to ever crack the ECU, we could in theory change the control algorithm. It seems strange that removing the fuse doesn't turn on the (P/S) light.

I just mean based on the overall number of components and the little bit of math required for configuring the comparator, etc.

The P/S light id turned on by the combination meter when the EPS reports an issue. If the EPS isn't alive it can't complain.

[CrankyOldMan]

Originally Posted by CTScott

I just mean based on the overall number of components and the little bit of math required for configuring the comparator, etc.

Understood. For an entry level EE student like me, the more cost effective solution would be using components and a breadboard instead of a PLD. Most of us DIY-ers don't have access to a programmer. The only microcontroller I've been exposed to so far comes on a $150 dev board, and that's a bit too expensive to cloister in a box under the dash. =)