MY YARIS IS SLOW NOW????? - Toyota Yaris Forums

sqcomp · 03-08-2007, 11:41 AM

Apparently since I'm a ZPI hater (not really) you might not want to try this little trick I learned from my SRT-4 days...

Toto- I believe I know why you're going to see a code if you just install on a straight pipe. Read on...

When I replaced my o2 pipe and my downpipe, we had two o2 sensors. One on the o2 pipe itself and one in the "cat" area. I decided to run a straight downpipe with a cutout. I understood that the computers would throw a code if the o2 sensors didn't detect a certain temperature difference between the two sensors. What I did was to buy a spark plug non-fouler, bore the inside out a little bit with a 1/2" drill bit. Why? Well, go ahead and try to screw in an o2 sensor to an 18mm non-fouler without boring the inside top out a little bit, you'll understand...the sensor just doesn't fit. When you take a bit of material out of it it will screw right on. After you bore that non-fouler out and fit it onto the o2 sensor, simply screw the non-fouler into the downstream sensor bung.

This backs the sensor off just enough to have it read a lower temperature like you'd have with a cat...like you're supposed to. It is my belief that when you look at a catalitic converter versus a straight pipe, you should notice that the o2 sensor dosn't go straight into the pipe's exaust stream as much as it would with a straight pipe. With my limited smarts on vehicle engines, I believe the temperature issue is why you'd see a code.

Now, I can find the how to for the SRT but it is really as simple as i've described it. I don't know the specific size of the stock o2 sensor on our Yaris. Sice I'm NOT going to be messing with the engine of mine...I leave this up to you guys.

On the old car, I NEVER threw a code with this little DIY mod in the year and a half I used it.

Thoughts?

CASTREX · 03-08-2007, 12:02 PM

I'm actually going for this mod in a couple of weeks:

Custom test pipe and the non-fouler trick.

Is a cheap mod (like $60 on a local shop) so if it goes wrong I'll just go back to the original set up.

I don't want to loose any low end power (this is a DD after all) so I don't want to go for a bigger pipe. I'm just curious to see how the car reacts to a better flowing exhaust. I think there is no gain on going for a larger diameter pipe, been this a N/A 1.5L but maybe we could get something out of an improved flow.

Let you know how it goes...

CASTREX · 03-08-2007, 12:19 PM

Some thing else exhaust related that I've been thinking about lately...

I kind of like the Chinocharles filosofy of cheap mods for a cheap car

Looking at the pics of theTRD muffler, it just looks almost the same as the OEM muffler with a nice polished tip. I guess the difference must be on the inside.

So, any one thinks that could be possible to open the OEM muffler and take some guts out of it? I dunno how that muffler looks on the inside, but anyone thinks that this could be done? Improved flow and quite at the same time!

Galavoxx · 03-09-2007, 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CASTREX

So, any one thinks that could be possible to open the OEM muffler and take some guts out of it? I dunno how that muffler looks on the inside, but anyone thinks that this could be done? Improved flow and quite at the same time!

I've been thinking of trying this myself. I'll let you know how it goes. Probably wont get to it for about a month though.

CASTREX · 03-09-2007, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Galavoxx

I've been thinking of trying this myself. I'll let you know how it goes. Probably wont get to it for about a month though.

Maybe one of the guys running the TRD's or one of the other aftermaket mufflers would be willing to open up theirs OEM so we can take a look and see if is worth it.

You could post it on the TRD muffler thread and see if anyone answers back.

Galavoxx · 03-09-2007, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CASTREX

Maybe one of the guys running the TRD's or one of the other aftermaket mufflers would be willing to open up theirs OEM so we can take a look and see if is worth it.

You could post it on the TRD muffler thread and see if anyone answers back.

I already have the OEM muffler. I just need to get over to my buddy's house. He has the welding equipment.

CASTREX · 03-09-2007, 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Galavoxx

I already have the OEM muffler. I just need to get over to my buddy's house. He has the welding equipment.

Good...! make sure to take a lot of pics

Dragonacc · 03-08-2007, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sqcomp

Apparently since I'm a ZPI hater (not really) you might not want to try this little trick I learned from my SRT-4 days...

Toto- I believe I know why you're going to see a code if you just install on a straight pipe. Read on...

When I replaced my o2 pipe and my downpipe, we had two o2 sensors. One on the o2 pipe itself and one in the "cat" area. I decided to run a straight downpipe with a cutout. I understood that the computers would throw a code if the o2 sensors didn't detect a certain temperature difference between the two sensors. What I did was to buy a spark plug non-fouler, bore the inside out a little bit with a 1/2" drill bit. Why? Well, go ahead and try to screw in an o2 sensor to an 18mm non-fouler without boring the inside top out a little bit, you'll understand...the sensor just doesn't fit. When you take a bit of material out of it it will screw right on. After you bore that non-fouler out and fit it onto the o2 sensor, simply screw the non-fouler into the downstream sensor bung.

This backs the sensor off just enough to have it read a lower temperature like you'd have with a cat...like you're supposed to. It is my belief that when you look at a catalitic converter versus a straight pipe, you should notice that the o2 sensor dosn't go straight into the pipe's exaust stream as much as it would with a straight pipe. With my limited smarts on vehicle engines, I believe the temperature issue is why you'd see a code.

Now, I can find the how to for the SRT but it is really as simple as i've described it. I don't know the specific size of the stock o2 sensor on our Yaris. Sice I'm NOT going to be messing with the engine of mine...I leave this up to you guys.

On the old car, I NEVER threw a code with this little DIY mod in the year and a half I used it.

Thoughts?

This is exactly what I was talking about in my post. It's worked for me on several cars. I coined the term "Ghetto Sim" on thevboard for this mod.

03-08-2007, 11:41 AM	#1
sqcomp Roadrunner Jr. View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris S Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Back at home Posts: 2,609	Apparently since I'm a ZPI hater (not really) you might not want to try this little trick I learned from my SRT-4 days... Toto- I believe I know why you're going to see a code if you just install on a straight pipe. Read on... When I replaced my o2 pipe and my downpipe, we had two o2 sensors. One on the o2 pipe itself and one in the "cat" area. I decided to run a straight downpipe with a cutout. I understood that the computers would throw a code if the o2 sensors didn't detect a certain temperature difference between the two sensors. What I did was to buy a spark plug non-fouler, bore the inside out a little bit with a 1/2" drill bit. Why? Well, go ahead and try to screw in an o2 sensor to an 18mm non-fouler without boring the inside top out a little bit, you'll understand...the sensor just doesn't fit. When you take a bit of material out of it it will screw right on. After you bore that non-fouler out and fit it onto the o2 sensor, simply screw the non-fouler into the downstream sensor bung. This backs the sensor off just enough to have it read a lower temperature like you'd have with a cat...like you're supposed to. It is my belief that when you look at a catalitic converter versus a straight pipe, you should notice that the o2 sensor dosn't go straight into the pipe's exaust stream as much as it would with a straight pipe. With my limited smarts on vehicle engines, I believe the temperature issue is why you'd see a code. Now, I can find the how to for the SRT but it is really as simple as i've described it. I don't know the specific size of the stock o2 sensor on our Yaris. Sice I'm NOT going to be messing with the engine of mine...I leave this up to you guys. On the old car, I NEVER threw a code with this little DIY mod in the year and a half I used it. Thoughts? __________________ “To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead.” ― Thomas Paine

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03-08-2007, 12:02 PM	#2
CASTREX Who said Yaris was slow? View User's Garage Drives: Yaris T-Sport 2008 Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Costa Rica Posts: 1,287	I'm actually going for this mod in a couple of weeks: Custom test pipe and the non-fouler trick. Is a cheap mod (like $60 on a local shop) so if it goes wrong I'll just go back to the original set up. I don't want to loose any low end power (this is a DD after all) so I don't want to go for a bigger pipe. I'm just curious to see how the car reacts to a better flowing exhaust. I think there is no gain on going for a larger diameter pipe, been this a N/A 1.5L but maybe we could get something out of an improved flow. Let you know how it goes...

03-08-2007, 12:19 PM	#3
CASTREX Who said Yaris was slow? View User's Garage Drives: Yaris T-Sport 2008 Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Costa Rica Posts: 1,287	Some thing else exhaust related that I've been thinking about lately... I kind of like the Chinocharles filosofy of cheap mods for a cheap car Looking at the pics of theTRD muffler, it just looks almost the same as the OEM muffler with a nice polished tip. I guess the difference must be on the inside. So, any one thinks that could be possible to open the OEM muffler and take some guts out of it? I dunno how that muffler looks on the inside, but anyone thinks that this could be done? Improved flow and quite at the same time!