Tokico Reds, Blues, or Front swaybar for HS autoX?

[CoryM]

Thanks for the input guys.

7:34pm- You must run with VCMC? I've only been to one of their events. Rims are currently konig heliums and aren't actually legal for HS. The NT01s are my daily summer tires and I am too lazy to bolt on my other rims.

CrankyOldMan- Good info. I didn't know about them. Looks like it probably won't affect my strut choice, but good to know.

cali yaris- Thanks. Expect at least a swaybar order soon.

xnamerxx- I think the problem with conventional swaybar theory is that it's from performance cars; Not soft sprung economy cars. After seeing those pictures I figure reducing the roll and increasing the contact patch of the inside tire will make a pretty big change for the better.

TheRealEnth- Good info. Thanks. I'm running R-comps already and refuse to run Hoosiers because I know I will never go back. Already hate driving on all-seasons. I also get one set of Nittos per year for very cheap so better tires are out.

Cheers.

[xnamerxx]

Originally Posted by CoryM

Thanks for the input guys.

xnamerxx- I think the problem with conventional swaybar theory is that it's from performance cars; Not soft sprung economy cars. After seeing those pictures I figure reducing the roll and increasing the contact patch of the inside tire will make a pretty big change for the better.

All swaybars are is a dynamic spring that reacts in roll only.

Going to a bigger swaybar will reduce roll since it resists roll motion, but when you reduce load on the inside tire from accelerating the inside from will have dramatically less load since it will be transferred to the outside rear.

I think of load like this.

No motion sitting static
[720][720]
[380][380]

Forward acceleration no steering
[640][640]
[460][460]

Braking
[900][900]
[200][200]

Left hand turn accelerating, this is where the swaybar starts to do what its designed to do. The stock bar on my car provides around 160lbs of resistance. Going to a bigger front bar will reduce load to the inside wheel which is also the drive wheel. Shown crudely below. As you can see you have a 2-3" contact patch with only 460/lb of load on the drive wheel.
[460][730]
[400][610]

From the pictures what you're seeing is dynamic camber loss under extension. It doesn't help the fact you're inside rear is picking up transferring more load to the outside front, which if you look carefully at the picture is deflecting really really badly and probably overloading from what I guessing.

Being your car is Mcpherson you really fix the contact patch issue on the inside front without reducing body roll a significant amount which bars aren't really gonna fix.