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10-18-2011, 04:12 PM | #19 | |
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Quote:
keep an eye on it. something leaks Last edited by A-Dingo-Ate-My-Baby; 10-18-2011 at 05:10 PM. |
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10-18-2011, 04:21 PM | #20 |
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10-18-2011, 04:32 PM | #21 |
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Out of curiosity, when you were doing the purge/fill last night, did you actually see the fan run?
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10-18-2011, 05:01 PM | #22 |
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No, the fan never came on. I was on a document posted by etimago that said after about 10 minutes of running, the fan should start, but it never did. My initial thought was that it I just didn't wait long enough (it was pretty cold here last night, 40F). I will leave the car on after I get home tonight to see if the fan is running.
Diagnostically, what would this mean? |
10-18-2011, 05:12 PM | #23 |
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if the fan never runs, it could mean a temp sensor is bad, and it is
allowing the system to overheat and boil off some fluid |
10-18-2011, 05:26 PM | #24 |
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It can take quite a while to get hot enough to cycle the fan. Turning on the AC will expedite it, as the AC ECU commands the fan to run when the AC is on. That will verify that the fan works (i.e. is not bad, or has a bad fuse or relay), but it would be good to also warm it up enough to verify that the coolant temp sensor is working. A quick drive and then let it sit running helps that as well.
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10-18-2011, 05:33 PM | #25 |
Drives: 2007 Meteorite Hatch Join Date: Oct 2011
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Interesting. The document I was reading indicated that I should have the heater on when flushing.
Also, wouldn't the boiled off fluid run into the overflow tank? Why would it be sprayed all over those hoses in the image? |
10-18-2011, 06:08 PM | #26 | |
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Quote:
if it boils it will purge out of the tank |
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10-18-2011, 06:45 PM | #27 |
When I changed out mine due to pump failure I refilled according to service manual and mainted the constant revs until the engine heated enough to cycle the fan. Normal running temp for me is at 182-4. Fan came on at 202 along with the overheat warning light. Just for info.
Glad you got it sorted out. |
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10-18-2011, 08:04 PM | #28 | |
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Quote:
During overheating it actually helps to run the heat on full blast, since it then acts as a secondary radiator.
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10-18-2011, 09:03 PM | #29 |
Thanks for the info CT.
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09-27-2012, 01:34 AM | #30 |
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Sorry to bring up ancient history here! First off, I wanted to say thanks to everyone for all of the help last year. Winter is coming, and I'm having the same problem again; it's like deja vu.
I thought the radiator top-off fixed the problem, but I'm certain that I shouldn't have to do this yearly.... The fan still doesn't come on when I run it for several minutes, and I think that it may be problem with the thermostat or the water pump. Does either one sound more likely than the other? Are their corresponding fixes DIYable? Thanks again for the help ahead of time! |
09-27-2012, 06:57 AM | #31 | |
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Quote:
The temp sensor for the fan is mounted to the radiator, so if the pump was not working or if the thermostat was not opening the flow through the radiator would be significantly reduced, delaying the fan from running. If you start the car with the radiator cap off and run it for a while (holding the engine at 2000-3000 RPM for a minute will get it warm quicker). When the thermostat opens you will see the coolant flowing by, with the cap removed. Also, once the car is warmed up, if you turn the A/C on the fan will immediately run to verify that the fan is working.
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09-27-2012, 08:16 AM | #32 |
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09-27-2012, 05:27 PM | #33 | |
Quote:
-E |
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07-23-2013, 08:46 AM | #34 |
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07-23-2013, 02:00 PM | #35 |
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Check my post #31 above and try that to see if the thermostat is actually opening.
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07-24-2013, 08:36 AM | #36 |
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Tags |
coolant, heater, overheating, radiator, thermometer |
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