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#1 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: No more Yaris Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Montana
Posts: 180
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Quote:
It's been years since I've considered Ziebart or Tuff-Kote - which once were the titans of the biz. Mostly, what they did was cause OTHER kinds of rust - their compounds would prevent open surface rust but cause it in crevasses and seams. At the time (1970s) they wouldn't warranty a job on a car on the road more than three months (some exceptions made on examination). Round about that time polymer coats and hot-dips started making inroads; and both those companies shriveled to irrelevance. But the point seemed to be, do it new or not at all. |
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#2 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ULTIMATEDrives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
My thought on rustproofing a non new car is to ensure that all existing rust has been treated and then to apply something that will prevent the paint from wearing away while also avoiding plugging any areas intended for drainage. I agree on the Ziebart and Tuff-Kote issues, having witnessed them first hand back in the day. Cars were also built differently back then, where they had many areas that ended up trapping water. My 72 Plymouth Scamp was a great example of that. Every single Scamp/Duster from that era had the big rot through spot, right behind the rear wheels, due to a seam that would plug up and hold water.
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