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#361 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2020 Corolla Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 549
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I have great news .... the local Toyota dealer is going to fix my ABS (!) brake problem, under extended warranty. The extended warranty coverage for my car was purchased by the original owner, and it apparently does cover the ABS (!) issue. So I am looking forward to getting my car finally fixed.
Edit: .. got my ABS (!) issue fixed today at the Toyota dealer. It was good to finally get the problem resolved. The best thing is that it was all covered under ECP warranty. Last edited by edmscan; 02-14-2013 at 08:01 PM. |
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#362 |
![]() Drives: 2006 Yaris Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Calgary
Posts: 11
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I have an 06 and just had to clean the sensors for the 2nd time last night. But the bad news is on the passenger side the plug fell completely apart. So I need to replace the ABS sensor wire (part 89516-52090) and the speed sensor (part 89544-52040).
Two questions; does anyone know a site that will ship to Canada and has the parts for a good price. The dealer cost is freaking crazy and more than double what i have found from sites in the US which won't send items north of the border. Second question, does anyone have DIY for changing the speed sensor? |
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#363 |
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![]() you will need a press...at least that's how i removed my hub. i can maybe send it to you for 100$ shipped from US. Last edited by enviri; 03-02-2013 at 09:23 PM. |
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#364 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2020 Corolla Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 549
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All I know is that when the dealer fixed my speed sensor issue (both left and right sides) it took them about 2-3 hours to complete the job. So it doesn't sound like it is a simple 10 min job.
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#365 |
![]() Drives: Yaris Hatchback LE Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Canada
Posts: 14
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owner of 2007 LB yaris, had rust proofing done when it was bought new from DVN dealership.
I just got this stupid ABS & (!) lights on problem about few weeks ago, after some googling i found this thread. I have a service appointment booked and will talk to them to see if they will do a good will pricing for me, if not, i'm not planning to fix it. |
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#366 | |
![]() Drives: Yaris Hatchback LE Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Canada
Posts: 14
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Hi,
Can you tell us which dealership is this in Toronto? DVN wants total of $940 to rplace both rear sensors, they said the cost of both sensors is $240......... Quote:
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#367 |
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I've made a post!
Drives: 2008 Yaris Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 1
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ABA wiring sensor replaced
First off let me thank everyone for posting such good information on checking, preventing and replacing in all of the above posts!
![]() I've followed the instructions and have removed both sensors, the first was dirty, but intact, the second....not so lucky. So I managed to switch out the old, broken, wiring and sensor (I'll call the male end) but I'm a bit lost on the other side (female) end. I had a few pins that were broken off (tons of sand/salt/snow in Winnipeg) and I'm not sure what part or process to use to replace the "female" side? I wasn't able to find anything mentioned in the previous posts on a DIY...any advice? I've been taking photos as I've gone along and I hope to post them all once I've completely finished to help others. I'll admit I'm not very handy, but I'd rather not pay the dealership for a job that I can do myself! |
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#368 |
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jb48
Drives: 2008 hatchback automatic Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Quebec, Canada
Posts: 12
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Now I have a dilemna!
I bought a used (97000 km) 2008 Yaris HB a month ago and it`s my sole everyday vehicle (my other one is a 1984 Suzuki 650 motorcycle). So far so good, no problem at all. In addition to everyday transportation, I use my car for delivering mail to mailboxes in rural area. I read all the 22 pages of this thread and now i have a dilemna: do I take preventive actions to address the potential problem by asking my mechanic to clean and grease the ABS connections when he`ll install my new winter tires or is it better to do nothing per popular proverb <if it ain`t broke, don`t fix it>? |
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#369 |
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1NZ-6spd
Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,967
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Take it apart and grease it with dielectric grease before it's too late.
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#370 |
![]() Drives: 2007 Yaris Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 22
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I've had the ABS & "!" light coming on intermittently since Christmas, and then it went solid for most of the winter so I suspected corrosion. Scan revealed C0210 (right rear speed sensor circuit).
Yesterday it was finally warm and dry enough to take a wheel off and have a look. Turns out that one of the two pin sockets on the harness was crusted up with green corrosion. And I can see why it happened, the plastic housing of the connector had a crack in it that let water in. Being as I'm a tightwad, I scraped out as much of the crust as possible with a small sewing pin and flushed out the debris with alcohol spray and compressed air. Added a tiny spot of grease in the hole and plugged it in. Cleared the codes by jumping the DLC and the warning lights are now off. I know this is a temporary repair, so the next time the light comes on I'm going to just replace both rear harnesses. |
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#371 |
![]() ![]() Drives: Hatch Join Date: May 2009
Location: NW OH
Posts: 93
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Can somebody help with a question? I'm trying to do the rears. Does that clip on top actually get removed, or is it a molded part of the connector? I lift the clip with a screwdriver, then try to pry to connector back with another screwdriver and the connector doesn't want to slide off easily. The connector is somewhat loose because I can actually slide it back and forth a tad. However, there is significant resistance to sliding the connector off. Am I just being too timid about prying on the connector to pop it off? I just don't want to break it. Thanks,.
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#372 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ULTIMATEDrives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,450
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Quote:
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#373 |
![]() ![]() Drives: Hatch Join Date: May 2009
Location: NW OH
Posts: 93
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You're the best CTS! Will try to look closer.
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#374 |
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Yes CTScott is the BEST!
D.
__________________
. CLA 250, 4MATIC |
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#375 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ULTIMATEDrives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,450
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And even better; I found a picture of releasing the clip from when we did the JDM Vitz RS rear axle swap on enviri's Yaris.
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#376 |
![]() ![]() Drives: Hatch Join Date: May 2009
Location: NW OH
Posts: 93
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OK, I'm not sure I did it right, but I managed to get the connectors off to inspect them without damaging them. I'm still a little confused, though.
I have a service manual on CD, so I found instructions on page AH-14 -- "AXLE – REAR AXLE HUB AND BEARING" and there it provides the instructions: DISCONNECT SKID CONTROL SENSOR WIRE (w/ABS) I could not see any "claw" to remove; in fact I don't think there even is one. What I did is I followed CTScott's instruction (I think...) to remove that clip that you can raise up on top of the sensor with a screwdriver. Well, turns out it is sort of a clamshell like cover that surrounds the whole connector. In my photo below you can see that there is a slotted locking clip that snaps onto a little nub; actually there is one on top and on the bottom. To get the cover off you have to raise both clips and work the thing off. With the cover off I took a screwdriver and gingerly worked the connector off. It did finally kind of pop off. I did not find any broken pins or anything. Is that what I was supposed to do, CTScott? When concerns me is that the manual says "Do not remove the connector cover." Well, if by "connector cover" they mean that clamshell thing that surrounds the connector, that ship done sailed. I did not damage the wires, though, and managed to get it back on OK after reattaching the connector. When I had the connector off I checked it for that "claw" they said to remove. I did not find any separate part that I could have removed. That's what confuses me about this whole thing. Last edited by robkay; 08-25-2014 at 10:27 AM. |
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#377 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ULTIMATEDrives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,450
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Quote:
They show to release the connector while it is inside of the cover. That may be possible to do if you can get into just the right position, but I find it much easier to remove the cover. As long as you are careful with the cover removal you will not hurt the wire.
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#378 |
![]() ![]() Drives: Hatch Join Date: May 2009
Location: NW OH
Posts: 93
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So, is that thing they show to pry up in their picture actually a separate piece that you "remove" as they say, or do they mean to just pry it up to release it from a tooth or something? They give you the impression that there is like a clip that you actually pry out and remove. As I said, I looked at the connector carefully and it seemed like it was all one piece to me.
In any case, as you say, it would be pretty tough to get in a position to pry that thing up and pry the connector off at the same time. I agree, it's easier to remove that cover. The wires look delicate, but if you're careful and find any broken I would bet they were already corroded off. OK, thanks for all your input! (Old subject I know...) After doing the rear I find that my BRAKE and ABS lights are still on, so I guess I need to check the front now. Last edited by robkay; 08-25-2014 at 10:06 AM. |
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