Fuel Gauge Problem - Toyota Yaris Forums

goosefraba · 09-06-2014, 09:22 PM

Thanks CTScott. The instrument panel was a really easy remove.. just pulled the trim gently and slowly, removed the 2 screws, then tilted it out.

I got a reading of 0 ohms with gauge stuck on the full mark before taking the reading. 117 miles on tank, so clearly the sender is not giving the resistance within the 13.5 to 414 ohms. 117 miles is roughly 3.4ish gallons from full. It makes sense that 0 ohms would peg the needle to full mark if less ohms is full and more ohms is empty.

I am going to take another reading after the gauge needle moves and sticks again. It would be nice to have an actual number correlation to the gauge needle being anywhere between the full and empty marks.... but based on this I think I am pretty certain the sender is bad.

CTScott · 09-06-2014, 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by goosefraba

Thanks CTScott. The instrument panel was a really easy remove.. just pulled the trim gently and slowly, removed the 2 screws, then tilted it out.

I got a reading of 0 ohms with gauge stuck on the full mark before taking the reading. 117 miles on tank, so clearly the sender is not giving the resistance within the 13.5 to 414 ohms. 117 miles is roughly 3.4ish gallons from full. It makes sense that 0 ohms would peg the needle to full mark if less ohms is full and more ohms is empty.

I am going to take another reading after the gauge needle moves and sticks again. It would be nice to have an actual number correlation to the gauge needle being anywhere between the full and empty marks.... but based on this I think I am pretty certain the sender is bad.

Lower resistance does equal more fuel, but its should not hit zero ohms, even when completely full.

johannes · 09-07-2014, 08:25 AM

Dear CTScott,

as I have found several posts concerning fuel pump problems, where you provided help: can you probably give me a hint how to get the pump out of a Yaris mk1 from 2000? My problem is shown in this thread:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52565

Best regards, Johannes

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09-06-2014, 09:22 PM	#1
goosefraba Drives: 2012 se Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: texas Posts: 3	Thanks CTScott. The instrument panel was a really easy remove.. just pulled the trim gently and slowly, removed the 2 screws, then tilted it out. I got a reading of 0 ohms with gauge stuck on the full mark before taking the reading. 117 miles on tank, so clearly the sender is not giving the resistance within the 13.5 to 414 ohms. 117 miles is roughly 3.4ish gallons from full. It makes sense that 0 ohms would peg the needle to full mark if less ohms is full and more ohms is empty. I am going to take another reading after the gauge needle moves and sticks again. It would be nice to have an actual number correlation to the gauge needle being anywhere between the full and empty marks.... but based on this I think I am pretty certain the sender is bad.

09-07-2014, 08:25 AM	#3
johannes Drives: Yaris P1 1l 2000 Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Berlin, germany Posts: 9	Dear CTScott, as I have found several posts concerning fuel pump problems, where you provided help: can you probably give me a hint how to get the pump out of a Yaris mk1 from 2000? My problem is shown in this thread: http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52565 Best regards, Johannes