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03-20-2016, 09:38 PM | #55 |
Drives: 07 HB YARIS, 15 JUKE, 00 TUNDR Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Johnstown, PA
Posts: 320
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03-20-2016, 09:50 PM | #56 |
Data doesn't lie
Drives: That Scrappy 2zrVios Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: San Diego
Posts: 761
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Ohhhhh I missed that, my bad. Carry on sir!
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03-21-2016, 05:03 AM | #57 |
Drives: 07 HB YARIS, 15 JUKE, 00 TUNDR Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Johnstown, PA
Posts: 320
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03-22-2016, 01:36 PM | #58 |
Drives: MR2 Spyd/Type R/Yaris/Civic Si Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 479
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Thank you for taking the time to document all this.
Just like a few others have done, its a huge service and benefit to the Yaris community. Thank you Will p.s..... for anyone else out there considering a Manual 2zrfe swap, I'm waiting for your DIY |
03-22-2016, 05:47 PM | #59 |
Drives: 07 HB YARIS, 15 JUKE, 00 TUNDR Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Johnstown, PA
Posts: 320
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I am hoping after this is done, to start a new clean thread with everything in some kind of order, so it can be stickied. I got my axles, control arms, knuckles, calipers, rotors, pads all on. Exhaust is in the transit! ETA is Monday. Hoping to do a how to install on that. I know with being a long tube design, that was one of my biggest things, trying to find if I needed to wait to put my engine in, or if it will fit after the fact. It should fit right in with my engine already back in.
I can't thank Armstrongracing enough for being supportive and really figuring out the hard parts of this swap! |
03-22-2016, 07:33 PM | #60 |
Data doesn't lie
Drives: That Scrappy 2zrVios Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: San Diego
Posts: 761
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I will be converting to a manual transmission next year some time so Ill post up a diy on that too for you guys.
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03-22-2016, 07:36 PM | #61 | |
Data doesn't lie
Drives: That Scrappy 2zrVios Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: San Diego
Posts: 761
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Quote:
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03-23-2016, 12:54 PM | #62 | |
0-60 in slow
Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: so cal
Posts: 926
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Quote:
__________________
2014 BSpec Divisional Champion |
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03-23-2016, 03:56 PM | #63 |
Drives: 07 HB YARIS, 15 JUKE, 00 TUNDR Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Johnstown, PA
Posts: 320
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From what I read in another forum, RPM stated that it was designed so it will just slide up from the underside. I hope this is the case.
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03-29-2016, 12:14 PM | #64 |
Drives: 07 HB YARIS, 15 JUKE, 00 TUNDR Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Johnstown, PA
Posts: 320
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So I received my RPM header and midpipe.
I have some mixed feeling about their product. First the good: The header is fantastic. Well made, and assembled. Coating seems durable. 20160328_154942.jpg 20160328_155021.jpg Now onto everything else: The midpipe is well made, but it is actually a two piece system. The pictures on fastscions and everywhere else show it to look like one piece. If you look close enough you can see that there is infact a slip joint. 20160328_155138.jpg 20160328_155203.jpg The packaging was horrible. All the pipes and parts were thrown into a box without any protection. The pipes were banging against each other and rubbing. Sad for $70+ in shipping charges. They also made a mistake and forgot to weld on the hanger bars on the front portion of the midpipe. After talking with them, they are sending me a small refund, and I will just weld my own on. The other thing I am trying to find out is how they expect me to connect the rear midpipe flange to the muffler flange. The factory using a pivoting ball gasket and they used a flat flange. Now for the rough install: From what I read they said that the header was designed so it would just twist and slip in from the bottom. I am not sure if the xD has more clearance, but it does not work on the yaris: tabissue.jpg headerinstall.jpg I had to cut down this tab: tabcut.jpg After much fighting and beating with a hammer I was able to get the tab to bend just enough to squeeze past the crossmember. Really scratched the heck out of the coating. header1.jpg header in.jpg headertopview.jpg I definitely recommend cutting that tab off altogether, or dropping the subframe. I did not want to drop mine because I installed whiteline caster bushings and they were a nightmare to get in. The midpipe lines up beautifully. No pics of that yet. However you will need to lengthen the rear o2 sensor wires to make them reach the new o2 bung on the midpipe. I installed the DC sports muffler from the xD and two hangars line up perfectly. DC sports has you take a floor grommet out on the xD, but on the yaris it is a different size and shape. So I will probably just bolt/weld a hanger to the floor of spare tire well. The DC muffler is also alot longer, so it sticks out a bit. muffler.jpg Overall I love the header, but would recommend getting a custom midpipe made, or making one yourself. I will keep you all updated on this install process of this. |
03-29-2016, 12:35 PM | #65 |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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For a "new" product that mid pipe looks beat to hell.
Thanks for the update. If I ever do this install down the road i'll b skipping the mid pipe and building my own. I like the header but that mid pipe is garbage for the money it costs. How essential is that tab that you recommend cutting of?
__________________
No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by... |
03-29-2016, 03:54 PM | #66 |
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,333
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That's a shame to hear that there's so many issues with the purchase overall.
What's the midpipe diameter? I've got a custom res-back to axle-back bent section of 2.5" that I haven't installed yet. I bought it for the Blitz S/C setup, but I'm worried about losing too much back pressure on the NA motor. It would also save me the cost of the midpipe and shipping. |
03-29-2016, 05:55 PM | #67 | |
Drives: 07 HB YARIS, 15 JUKE, 00 TUNDR Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Johnstown, PA
Posts: 320
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Quote:
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03-29-2016, 09:55 PM | #68 |
Data doesn't lie
Drives: That Scrappy 2zrVios Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: San Diego
Posts: 761
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Sad....Im glad I didn't order the midpipe. The tab on the header should be for the support bracket for the header
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03-30-2016, 05:33 AM | #69 |
Drives: 07 Yaris 3 door Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: conyers ga
Posts: 87
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In all fairness to the header manufacturer on the fitment, we are trying to use a header/mid-pipe on a different car than what it was intended for. Doesn't look like any major fabrication to make it work. My only concern would be the flange for the muffler to mid-pipe. The slip joint on the mid-pipe is actually a good thing for this experiment, gives you a little more flexibility in fitment.
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03-30-2016, 05:59 AM | #70 | |
Drives: 07 HB YARIS, 15 JUKE, 00 TUNDR Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Johnstown, PA
Posts: 320
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Quote:
That being said, I dunno if they actually sold a midpipe and header to any actual Yaris TS owners. The slip joint isn't really needed honestly, but not really hurting anything either, I just like a sealed exhaust pipe. In regards to the rear flange they told me most people are just using high temp silicone, which worries me. They are sending me a regular gasket that is supposed to work, so I will keep you all updated on that. |
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03-30-2016, 06:11 AM | #71 | |
Drives: 07 Yaris 3 door Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: conyers ga
Posts: 87
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Quote:
If you don't like the slip joint, just put some tack welds on it once you get everything fitted and clamped, pull it down and weld it up. As for sliding the header on once the cross member and engine are in place, sounds like for others planning on doing this, it would be better to install the header onto the engine prior to installing the engine in the car. Last edited by beaker; 03-30-2016 at 06:21 AM. |
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03-30-2016, 06:22 AM | #72 | |
Drives: 07 HB YARIS, 15 JUKE, 00 TUNDR Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Johnstown, PA
Posts: 320
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Quote:
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