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Old 09-16-2017, 11:18 PM   #1
tmontague
 
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I would adjust the brakes as needed and then bleed. Prepare to have a seized bleed nipple and either try heat or just buy a newbrake cylinder.

You likely have air in the system when the spring blew out. A similar thing happened to me when I tore the boot and put in a new cylinder. A bleed fixed all of that for me
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Old 09-17-2017, 08:17 AM   #2
06YarisRS
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
I would adjust the brakes as needed and then bleed. Prepare to have a seized bleed nipple and either try heat or just buy a newbrake cylinder.

You likely have air in the system when the spring blew out. A similar thing happened to me when I tore the boot and put in a new cylinder. A bleed fixed all of that for me
Excellent! Thanks. I will follow your advice. I was going to buy wheel cylinders with my brake parts order but cancelled those as when I initially had the wheel off they looked good with no leaks. I'm kicking myself now, especially since they were like $8.00 CAD each and I would have saved on combined shipping. I guess I was hoping to avoid working with brake line fittings as well. Fingers are crossed that the rust protection spray I coated the back of the backing plate has helped loosen up the bleeder screws. I'm going to do the brake adjustment/bleed today. I have lots of DOT 3 in my garage, so I'll attempt a complete flush. I'll post back with good news...or bad.
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Old 09-17-2017, 02:41 PM   #3
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OK, posting back with bad news... I broke a bleeded screw off. I went quite gently, back and forth a bit just tapping my ratchet. I did not apply heat as I have no propane atm. If felt like it was letting go, then it sheered right off. I figured, here comes the brake fluid...Nope, not a drop. Examining the broken bleed screw in my hand, it was completely compacted with corrosion. It took some digging to get it out. Since I have no brake fluid leaking, I'm assuming what's left of the screw in the wheel cylinder is also plugged. I won't be driving the car until I replace the wheel cylinder. I'm not enthusiastic about removing the brake lines. Would heat be a good situation in this application? I'm going to do full bleed anyway, once I have the new wheel cylinders installed. And, I would definitely say I have air in the system. I have both rear wheels adjusted perfectly (I think) and still, a soft pedal.

On a more upbeat note, I did get the coolant changed and painted my calipers. So, all was not lost today.
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Old 09-17-2017, 02:54 PM   #4
xdarkxfirex
 
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Be careful with wheel cylinders. There threads are really soft. Many aftermarket wheel cylinders are junk too. I've tried raybestos and had like 3 of them leak within a short period of time. Also dorman was crap too. I used centric premium off rockauto and it worked pretty good.
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Old 09-17-2017, 07:19 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xdarkxfirex View Post
Be careful with wheel cylinders. There threads are really soft. Many aftermarket wheel cylinders are junk too. I've tried raybestos and had like 3 of them leak within a short period of time. Also dorman was crap too. I used centric premium off rockauto and it worked pretty good.
Ah, great advice. Thanks. I was actually just at Rock Auto looking at the $6.99 Centric standard ones, but for an other buck and change, the Centric Premium sound like the way to go. Either way, I sure regret trying to save a few bucks on my brake parts order and removing the wheel cylinders from my cart. I think it was actually the Centric Premiums I had in my cart. Dang!
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