2ZR Turbo Yaris

[malibuguy]

Just delete the BOV its not super necessary. Im with you on the tuning the FIC. With my tercel i was having an annoying stumble as well that seemingly came out of nowhere and it was associated cells messing with the the cells that needed to stay pretty much unfooled with. I changed the map so basically the lower 3 cells were full vacuum to 0, then the remaining 13 cells above that was all boost to give me more resolution.

Since basically down low nothing needed tweaking once I set it for the large injectors.

Was awesome until I got greedy with the boost and sent a rod at 18psi. Should of kept it at 16psi.

But hey now it has a 1nz swap

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by malibuguy

Just delete the BOV its not super necessary. Im with you on the tuning the FIC. With my tercel i was having an annoying stumble as well that seemingly came out of nowhere and it was associated cells messing with the the cells that needed to stay pretty much unfooled with. I changed the map so basically the lower 3 cells were full vacuum to 0, then the remaining 13 cells above that was all boost to give me more resolution.

Since basically down low nothing needed tweaking once I set it for the large injectors.

Was awesome until I got greedy with the boost and sent a rod at 18psi. Should of kept it at 16psi.

But hey now it has a 1nz swap

Thanks. Well, I still have some tweaking to do for sure, but I'll wait until I can figure out this lack of full boost, leak issue. Not sure if I mentioned it above or not, but I still have the leak with the BOV port closed off. Once I sort the leak, I'm going to focus on improving my idle. Idle is great, but I get the occasional hiccup and it may stall with a bit of idle load and more likely when the A/C is on. The other fueling area I'd like to attend to is on light deceleration my AFR is a bit rich ranging from 12.9s to high 13s. My tailpipe is showing some soot. Other than that the car runs great and pulls like a rocket even at 4.5 - 5 psi. Since I can't get Torque to provide me with accurate boost or AFR readings, I'm going to have to bite the bullet and pick up those gauges.

I did a couple more tests and got some strange results. I removed the hose that comes out of my catch can and connects to the intake manifold - where the PCV would have entered the manifold. I put some pressure (about 8 to 10 psi) into the intake manifold. I could hear a large leak and I followed it to my 3" custom intake. It is leaking at the coupler just above the turbo that connects the two main pieces of intake piping together. I had to dent that tubing for clearances around the top of the head at the corners of the engine. As a result, the end of the pipe is a bit out of round so won't seal. I'll get that rounded back out at the local shop that has an exhaust pipe expanded. BUT... the leak isn't my concern. The question is, why would pressurized air from the intake manifold make its way back into the air intake for the turbo. Is this normal? I expect that it's just feeding back through the compressor housing and out through the intake. It begs the question though...if pressure from the intake manifold can make its way back into the air intake, does that not constitute a boost loss? Now, mind you, the car wasn't running, so there was no vacuum on the air intake. I never thought that boost could be lost back through the air intake. I expect that when in boost the air is all traveling toward the throttlebody at a high velocity, so it's unlikely to vent back out through the air intake. I'm really still in the learning phase, so nothing surprises me at this point.

I smoke tested my manifold and throttebody and could not get a whisp of smoke leaking from either of those. As expected, the smoke eventually made its way out of the air filter.

Somewhere I must still have a boost leak. But, right now I am at a loss as to where it is. Independent tests of vacuum lines and charge piping are excellent, easily handling 20+ psi. Tomorrow, after I get the intake fixed, I'm going to fiddle with my wastegate. Although it feels like the flapper door is making tight contact with the compressor housing, I'm going to preload the actuator by one or two turns. It is possible that I'm getting some leaking there as I had the actuator off a couple of times and may not have gotten the actuator arm nuts back in their original position.