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#1 |
![]() Drives: 2010 Yaris sedan Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 7
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Update 2: Had the repair scheduled for this week. The bearing went from the usual low grinding noise (indicating the bearing going bad) to sudden catastrophic failure. Wheel became detached and brake hardware disintegrated, draining brake fluid and causing the near complete loss of braking function. Thankfully occurred at low speed, but at 318,000 miles, this is the end of my Yaris.
The Duralast hub went from no noise or symptoms to catastrophic failure in 2 days and about 25 miles. |
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#2 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
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Quote:
Sorry to hear that. Glad it was at low speed and you didn't get hurt. I've used some duralast parts such as brake rotors, pads etc, but, yeah, something like a wheel bearing, I'd minimally use Moog, Mevotech but would always prefer OEM, Timken or SKF. There seems to be a plethora of wheel bearing manufacturers that offer products that won't last. In this case, it really seems to be a 'get what you pay for' scenario. 318000 miles is a fair bit, but is the car not worth fixing?
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/ |
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