Dashboard Clock goes off?

[sven337]

Someone asked me to repair their clock, I took a better picture of the fix + the test setup.

[Sumi]

Is there anyone out there who managed to fix it by replacing the transistors? I'd need the dimming feature.

[Sumi]

Okay, so I've pulled it apart today and resoldered the transistors, as mentioned by a comment on sven337's page. I don't know if this will last, because when I start the car the clock display comes on pretty slowly, which tells me that something isn't quite right, although I don't remember how it used to be. But at least it works for now.

@sven337, do you think that there is any risk of fire when the transistors die? I can imagine there is quite some heat if it's enough to make the PCB turn brown on the other side.

[bubinio]

Hi guys,

I tried sven337 solution but with 1,5V the clock is not bright at all. When i adjust it at about 2,7V to be brighter then the red lines appear. When the lights are turned on, the clock is not readable!

Great work though for sven337 and all the rest!!

[Sumi]

Originally Posted by Sumi

Okay, so I've pulled it apart today and resoldered the transistors, as mentioned by a comment on sven337's page. I don't know if this will last, because when I start the car the clock display comes on pretty slowly, which tells me that something isn't quite right, although I don't remember how it used to be. But at least it works for now.

@sven337, do you think that there is any risk of fire when the transistors die? I can imagine there is quite some heat if it's enough to make the PCB turn brown on the other side.

Died today again.

Any ideas how to do the boost converter mod with retaining the dimming feature?

[dreamer]

Hello,
As others on this thread, I have the clock/temperature/ average consumption display problem.
The thing is that I just bought the car second hand 2 weeks ago. I didn't see that missing display until I drived it several days, asking myslef how possible it was for a car not to have a clock ( I use to have the Yaris 2004 before, that has all those features)
The person that sold it to me ( herself 2nd byuer) said that she never paid attention to that and that it was surely already out when she bought the car 5 years ago ).

Anyway, I've found this thread via the french page of sven.
The problem is Im not equiped (and talented) to start trying taking all those pieces out :/
I saw on the thread that you can find the full part with the screen etc but it is 150 € !

My questions are :
- is there a way to find just the electronic panel , cheap, and to replace it ?
- how expensive would it cost to me if I go to a toyota garage and ask them to repair it ?

Also, if you know someone in Belgium that would accept to do the work for me in exchange of of a good price, Im interested :)

Oh, and I also have the "turning button" to change from outside/recycling air" that is blocked on the " outside air" , but I hope it is just a plastic thingy blocked behind the n panel, nothing electronic here)

Thanks a lot !

Regards,
Dreamer

[mimik]

Is it possible to replace the old faulty cluster with a second hand unit that works?
Or will that mess up ODO etc?

[almamater]

Well, my Yaris 2006 had the same issue 1 month ago, yesterday i decided to do the procedure mentioned here, thanks to Sven337 !!

All worked Now, i decided not to remove the transistors, i just added the MP1584EN, and in this way, the dim functionality continues to work..

If anyone needs pictures i can post them, i took some.

Thanks!

[brugal67]

could you send me the photos of the modification?

[Marafado]

Originally Posted by almamater

Well, my Yaris 2006 had the same issue 1 month ago, yesterday i decided to do the procedure mentioned here, thanks to Sven337 !!

All worked Now, i decided not to remove the transistors, i just added the MP1584EN, and in this way, the dim functionality continues to work..

If anyone needs pictures i can post them, i took some.

Thanks!

Hello.
Another one with the same problem.
Thanks to sven337's posts, I'll try to follow his procedures as well.
In your case, you decided not to remove the transistors. You say that this way the variable brightness functionality remained functional.
Can you confirm that everything is back to normal after the repair and no more problems have appeared?
I'm thinking of a more complex repair, but just in case it's justified!

Thanks

[Marafado]

Here is the solution I implemented.

[bubinio]

Originally Posted by Marafado

Here is the solution I implemented.

Hi mate! Can you give more details about the module?

[jacki22]

Please, I'm looking for the wiring diagram for the connector.

[magicyaris]

Muchisimas gracias a sven337 por la información y a adsb por las imágenes proporcionadas sois unos putos Top Globales y unos máquinas.
Gracias a este foro y toda la información que hay aquí intentaré arreglar la pantalla del yaris y sino lo consigo ha sido un placer enloquecer junto a ustedes

[javito81]

Originally Posted by sven337

OK, this is fixed! Hopefully this time for good.

I had an adjustable MP1584EN-based buck module ("D-Sun" chinese brand).
These super common modules you can find for a few dollars.
For example:
https://www.ebay.fr/itm/Ultra-Small-...-/322408214136

I used my poor man's lab power supply to test what were the minimal voltage and currents needed to obtain full brightness, and I found out that a constant voltage 1.5V supply would yield a steady 300mA current that would correspond to full brightness. Going to 2.5V would increase current to 450mA without any visible change in brightness, and starting at 4V the filaments would glow red.
(Sorry about the quality of my pictures, I was focused on solving the problem and only took the pics as an afterthought).
https://perso.aquilenet.fr/~sven337/...test_setup.jpg
https://perso.aquilenet.fr/~sven337/...k/halfwatt.jpg
https://perso.aquilenet.fr/~sven337/.../2halfvolt.jpg

Once this was proven working, I cleared some space on the board by removing the transistors and their base and emitter resistors.

https://perso.aquilenet.fr/~sven337/...cleanboard.jpg

Laid out a layer of tape to insulate, soldered the module and taped it in place. This fits with room to spare when reassembling everything.
https://perso.aquilenet.fr/~sven337/...lock/final.jpg

Sorry that final picture is so anti-climactic.. Everything works quite well for now. I hope it lasts, this time, but see no reason why it wouldn't.

Thank you so much, I was able to fix my watch thanks to you, best regards. :arco: