Remote Start DIY Wiring Guide 2006-2010 Yaris

[CTScott]

Here's connector D19, which is the key sense connection (2 pin with yellow and white/black wires):

Conn D19 - Key sense.jpg

[jroy]

Um, I'm not following what you're doing with the pin 12 wire?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by jroy

Um, I'm not following what you're doing with the pin 12 wire?

The mistaken word tape for tap probably didn't help. Theoretically, if you connect to the black start wire on the ignition switch, you will not be able to start the car with the remote starter, as the alarm ECU has a relay between that wire and the starter relay that allows it to keep the key from starting the car, unless the alarm is deactivated. In order for the remote start to work, you have to connect your remote starter's start wire to a point beyond the alarm starter cut relay.

[Skylinecar1982]

I have a 09 yaris s with immobilizer and factory keyless. I am trying to install a 1155tl but am having two problems.

One I can't find a negative pulse trigger from the factory keyless?? or postive.

And do I have to use the key to unlock the door once remote started???


Thanks
mark

[CTScott]

Did the lock and unlock negative pulse wires are shown on page 7 of the guide not work? I don't recall if they get pulsed when the factory keyless locks/unlocks the doors.

And, no you should be able to unlock the doors with the remote, even when the car is started by the remote starter.

[Skylinecar1982]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Did the lock and unlock negative pulse wires are shown on page 7 of the guide not work? I don't recall if they get pulsed when the factory keyless locks/unlocks the doors.

And, no you should be able to unlock the doors with the remote, even when the car is started by the remote starter.

Yeah I hooked up the brown for lock but no dice. But the bottom right wire (orange i believe) works but only for unlock.


And the factory keyless remote doesnt work when I start it just pulsing the wire manually

Thanks Mark

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Skylinecar1982

Yeah I hooked up the brown for lock but no dice. But the bottom right wire (orange i believe) works but only for unlock.


And the factory keyless remote doesnt work when I start it just pulsing the wire manually

Thanks Mark

If the orange works for unlock, then the pink directly above the orange should work for lock.

I am not catching what you mean about the remote not working?

[Skylinecar1982]

Originally Posted by CTScott

If the orange works for unlock, then the pink directly above the orange should work for lock.

I am not catching what you mean about the remote not working?

Tried the pink too also no luck but will try again tomorrow.


I can take the green wire from the ultra start ( the wire that needs the negative pulse to start.) and I can manually ground the wire twice to make the remote start think it is getting a negative pulse. Then the device will start the car. Once the car is started through the device. The factory remote will not work anymore for the vehicle.

Thanks
Mark

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Skylinecar1982

Tried the pink too also no luck but will try again tomorrow.


I can take the green wire from the ultra start ( the wire that needs the negative pulse to start.) and I can manually ground the wire twice to make the remote start think it is getting a negative pulse. Then the device will start the car. Once the car is started through the device. The factory remote will not work anymore for the vehicle.

Thanks
Mark

There are two pinks. Make sure that it's the large one on the end, not the small one in the middle.

[Skylinecar1982]

Originally Posted by CTScott

There are two pinks. Make sure that it's the large one on the end, not the small one in the middle.

Yeah that is the one that I tried but it was late in the day and I will try again tomorrow.

thank you
Mark

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Skylinecar1982

Yeah that is the one that I tried but it was late in the day and I will try again tomorrow.

thank you
Mark

I just downloaded the manual for the 1155. They actually say to connect the pulse to start wire to the unlock rather than lock. They probably do that because of cars that have security that prevents them from starting unless the car was unlocked. That may be why your factory remote gets locked out after starting.

[Skylinecar1982]

Originally Posted by CTScott

I just downloaded the manual for the 1155. They actually say to connect the pulse to start wire to the unlock rather than lock. They probably do that because of cars that have security that prevents them from starting unless the car was unlocked. That may be why your factory remote gets locked out after starting.

Oh well I tried it on the lock and unlock wires on page 7 but nothing happened. But I did have it working with unlock using the thicker orange wire in the bottom right of the connector but , after it started the remote still wouldn't work. The doors where open but I wanted them to be closed so that I can start it and not have to watch it while it warms up.(security wise.)

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Skylinecar1982

Oh well I tried it on the lock and unlock wires on page 7 but nothing happened. But I did have it working with unlock using the thicker orange wire in the bottom right of the connector but , after it started the remote still wouldn't work. The doors where open but I wanted them to be closed so that I can start it and not have to watch it while it warms up.(security wise.)

The 1155 has the option to relock after starting, so you could set it up to start on the double unlock pulse and then relock.

[Skylinecar1982]

Originally Posted by CTScott

The 1155 has the option to relock after starting, so you could set it up to start on the double unlock pulse and then relock.

I have it working but now there is a new problem I cannot get it to respond when I program the unit for more then one pulse. I can get it to work on one pulse but when I go to unlock the car it will shut off. Hence why I need it to work with more then one pulse.

[Skylinecar1982]

FYI

I found what was wrong. I have been using your write up the whole time to install this remote start. You have on page 4 that IGN 1 is Green and IGN 2 is Pink. It should be Pink is IGN 1 and GREEN is IGN 2/ ACC. I checked this with the Crimestopper wiring diagram and the Fortin wiring diagram and they both have Pink as IGN 1 and Green as either IGN 2 or ACC.

If you don't have a immobilizer and factory keyless this probably won't make a difference but if you do it could mean the difference between the car starting or not starting.

I spent 3 days thinking something was wrong with the trigger wire I found but in the end it was that. So now I can use Unlock or Lock. But still can't use the remote because Toyota vehicles with factory keyless and immobilizer won't respond to wireless commands when running. May be other Toyota's but I know for sure keyless and immobilizer toyota cars don't.

Thanks anyways everything else was extremely helpful.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Skylinecar1982

FYI

I found what was wrong. I have been using your write up the whole time to install this remote start. You have on page 4 that IGN 1 is Green and IGN 2 is Pink. It should be Pink is IGN 1 and GREEN is IGN 2/ ACC. I checked this with the Crimestopper wiring diagram and the Fortin wiring diagram and they both have Pink as IGN 1 and Green as either IGN 2 or ACC.

If you don't have a immobilizer and factory keyless this probably won't make a difference but if you do it could mean the difference between the car starting or not starting.

I spent 3 days thinking something was wrong with the trigger wire I found but in the end it was that. So now I can use Unlock or Lock. But still can't use the remote because Toyota vehicles with factory keyless and immobilizer won't respond to wireless commands when running. May be other Toyota's but I know for sure keyless and immobilizer toyota cars don't.

Thanks anyways everything else was extremely helpful.

The Toyota service manual EWDs describe the wires as I listed them and that's how I have them wired to my UltraStart remote starter. I do have the immobilizer and am using a Fortin KEY-OVERRIDE-ALL bypass module. Mine had factory power locks/windows, but not remote keyless entry.

If you start the car with the key, do you see the same behavior, where the remote will not function when the engine is running?

[Skylinecar1982]

Originally Posted by CTScott

The Toyota service manual EWDs describe the wires as I listed them and that's how I have them wired to my UltraStart remote starter. I do have the immobilizer and am using a Fortin KEY-OVERRIDE-ALL bypass module. Mine had factory power locks/windows, but not remote keyless entry.

If you start the car with the key, do you see the same behavior, where the remote will not function when the engine is running?

Yeah started with the key and keyless still doesn't function. This is a known thing for Toyota's to lock out factory wireless when vehicle is running. You got around it by having a keyless that is not fully integrated into the car. It's some sort of security measure I think.

As far as the wires go if Toyota says that green is IGN 1 then it is IGN 1 but crimestopper and fortin have listed it as IGN 2. And this is the only thing that I needed to change in order to get the vehicle remote start working. So I am happy. Wonder who has it wrong Toyota or others.

Again thanks.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Skylinecar1982

Yeah started with the key and keyless still doesn't function. This is a known thing for Toyota's to lock out factory wireless when vehicle is running. You got around it by having a keyless that is not fully integrated into the car. It's some sort of security measure I think.

As far as the wires go if Toyota says that green is IGN 1 then it is IGN 1 but crimestopper and fortin have listed it as IGN 2. And this is the only thing that I needed to change in order to get the vehicle remote start working. So I am happy. Wonder who has it wrong Toyota or others.

Again thanks.

I am trying to figure out how the door control receiver knows that the engine is running. The door control receiver only has a 2 wire connection to the body ECU. The red wire is the door control receiver input wire. You could try popping that pin to see if blocking comm in that direction keeps it from being told that the engine is running.