Yaris Sedan Deadening and Sound system upgrade

[derickveliz2]

BLUE TEXT IS "ME"


FcukThis;whoa! three 10" Solo barics vs. a bazooka ?
Only 15% louder?!

Hm, to me-- that's a hands down bazooka win.

Either way... the Bazooka sounds too good or I'm disappointed with the Solo-Barics

But some things to consider?
1.) What about kick/impact, Do you still get it with the bazooka?

At low to moderate volume Bazooka Tube does ass good as the Solos

2.) How about the rattles, do the solo barics produce any annoying jiggles in the trunk?--I had a pair of subs in my trunk several months back. I loved the way they sounded, but they rattled my car way too much.. Because of it, i hesitated to crank up the volume.

Yes! Solo-Barics shake the car more than the Bazooka

3.) Consider the low end capabilities, which hits lows better. And/or which will produce better sound for the type of music you listen to ?

Bazooka hits the lows better, Solo-Barics handle better the other end; at low-moderate volume the Bazooka satisfies me better, to SHOW-OFF I'll rather have the Solos, I don't know if you get my point?

4.) Power efficiency. Since we're only talking 15% loudness when comparing the two. The bazooka only takes 50watts compared to 200watts per say(I'm making up numbers) to power the solo barics. Less strain on your system.

My amp put out 300 watts:
Bazooka is rated at 300 watts
Solo-Barics are rated 350 watts each
The guru expert guys may explain this better.

5.) Weight, which you have pointed out. I used to drive to school everyday w/ a full load. (me + 4 friends). everytime i would get on the highway, it sounded like my car was going into overdrive.. Just horrible!! Handling...Oh boy, i dont even want to get started. It was hard to merge from lane to lane sometimes.
If the weight difference makes driving unenjoyable, clearly it's a no go!

Add the weight of your deadening, +70 pounds, +groceries, + your family/passengers. I can really see how things would add up.

Yes you got the point!

Me thinking...............

.

[Alien Mantis]

[QUOTE=derickveliz2;509663]

My amp put out 300 watts:
Bazooka is rated at 300 watts
Solo-Barics are rated 350 watts each
The guru expert guys may explain this better.


SMACK!



This is your problem.
You don't have anywhere near enough AMP to push 3 Solobarics!

You need a 900 watt amp on those Solobarics.
You put a bigger amp on those things, and you will see a huge difference.

300watts is good for one Bachuka.

I am putting 400watts on one Alpine Type-R.
And it's just enough!
I would run a 900 watt amp on 2 Type-R's.

Underpowered subs suck, and you can actually hurt the subwoofer by not giving it enough power.

Lots of articles on the internet about this.

One other thing: did you ever tell us anything about the BOX those Solobarics are in? Sealed or ported? What Ft^3 ?
Also, what model Solobarics? L5 or L7 ?
( L7's are bigtime power hungry beasts )
How do you have them wired up? What is the total OHMS load? Are they single or dual voice coil? What ohm per coil?
What is the RMS power rating of your amp at WHAT OHM LOAD?
You gotta match up these numbers correctly, or you will cook your amp, or severely underpower your subs.

How about a photo of them!

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by Alien Mantis

SMACK!



This is your problem.
You don't have anywhere near enough AMP to push 3 Solobarics!

You need a 900 watt amp on those Solobarics.
You put a bigger amp on those things, and you will see a huge difference.

300watts is good for one Bachuka.

How about a photo of them!

YEAH! I knew there was something going on beyond my knowledge...

Thanks AM I will be posting more info about them...

D.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by Alien Mantis

One other thing: did you ever tell us anything about the BOX those Solobarics are in? Sealed or ported? What Ft^3 ?
Also, what model Solobarics? L5 or L7 ?
( L7's are bigtime power hungry beasts )
How do you have them wired up? What is the total OHMS load? Are they single or dual voice coil? What ohm per coil?
What is the RMS power rating of your amp at WHAT OHM LOAD?
You gotta match up these numbers correctly, or you will cook your amp, or severely underpower your subs.

How about a photo of them!

Here are some specs and notes from the Solo-Barics and Amp:
















I'm running Parallel at 4 Ohm



Here are the specs for the Bachuka




In other words I could run only one Solo-Baric and get good results? I should try it!

This is the LINK for the Manual (Solo-Barics)
.

[47_MasoN_47]

I believe you, I can tell a difference just in loading up a few computers in the trunk. So how much total weight did your deadening add?

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by 47_MasoN_47

So how much total weight did your deadening add?

MLV= 1lb / sqfoot

MLV=90 pounds
MAT=70 pounds

so that's around 160 pounds, just estimating.

[47_MasoN_47]

Holy crap, that's a good bit more than I'd expected.

[derickveliz2]

Before I post the information of the woofers and amp, check this out!

The car is off and everything is quiet, I turn the HU on, music plays really nice (very low volume), then I pause the music... complete silence then I turn the parking lights on and I hear a small Bizzzzzzzzzzzzz on the right side Tweeter and Midrange...

I turn the lights off Bizzzzzzzz goes away.

any clues?

Thanks

D.

[DailyDriver]

your speaker wires are running too close to your wires for the turn signal. u just need to separate them. if it isn't possible to separate them, insulate the crap out of them. if they actually have to cross, then cross them at 90 degrees or perpendicular to each other, and try to insulate them as best as you can. should be that easy. (fingers crossed)

[sqcomp]

D,

Adding to what DD is saying, take a look at your wire runs in their entirety. That buzz could be several things. The ground loop is constant correct? Not off and on with your signal?

Note...remember how I killed one of my LRx amps? That was a ground loop. I didn't have any noise either. If you're that far into it it could be a speaker wire OR an RCA as well.

That's why I suggest looking at your runs in their entirety. I know it's a bish...it'll save you some headache if you do it now.

Also, feel free to drop the shop a line. The guys will be able to talk you through some possibilities.

[Alien Mantis]

And this is why it is important to do a CAREFUL wiring job.

The wiring job is just as important as the gear you buy.

Since a car stereo rides on the same electrical system as the rest of the car, all kinds of sneaky issues can crop up.

Which is why we try and separate / isolate the audio system wiring as much as possible during an install.
Some issues are avoidable, with a careful wiring job.

I seen one car that had a whine coming through the speakers, it was relative to engine RPM. If the engine was off, there was no whine.
It turned out to be a bad diode in the alternator.
Alternator was replaced, and the whine went away.

Some issues are hard to track down.

Since you said it was buzzing on the right side components, do some isolation tests.
Swap your RCA's at the amp, and see if the problem switches over to the other side.
If it does, then track it back. If it doesn't change anything, track it forward.




And.... you were going to give us some info on your subwoofer setup I believe? With pictures too?

*AHEM*

[47_MasoN_47]

Sounds to me like the wires may either have a ground loop or that your wires are running too close to the current for your lights.

[derickveliz2]

.
Thanks everybody for all the input about the "noise" I'm running behind schedule but I'll catch up and try every suggestion. I'll keep a log and let you guys know how it goes.

Thanks again!

Derick.

[Alien Mantis]

Ok, you got them old-skool round solobarics.

Classics!

You still didn't tell us how you have them wired-up, and the voice coil info.
( your total OHM load )

That Pioneer amp you have is really sweet, but it's NOT a subwoofer amp.

This is what you need right here:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...KAC-9104D.html

Can't beat that deal! 900 watts RMS @ 2 ohms, FREE SHIPPING, what more could ya want?

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by Alien Mantis

You still didn't tell us how you have them wired-up, and the voice coil info.
( your total OHM load )

That Pioneer amp you have is really sweet, but it's NOT a subwoofer amp.

I'm sorry but my lack of knowledge is wining this time:

I think I wired them up in parallel see image below.

voice coil info? total OHM load?>>> I'm clue less where do I get that?

How do I know if an amp it's a subwoofer amp? I thought it was

Thanks for all the help

[Alien Mantis]

Originally Posted by derickveliz2

I think I wired them up in parallel see image below.
voice coil info? total OHM load?>>> I'm clue less where do I get that?
How do I know if an amp it's a subwoofer amp? I thought it was

You THINK?
( you need to know this stuff )

That image does not relate to your system.
That image is one single voice coil sub, on one monoblock amp at 4 ohms.
YOU are running 3 subs ( unknown voice coils ) on a 2-channel amp!

You get YOUR info by looking at the back of your subs, and the wiring.
Check to see if they are dual or single voice coils, what OHMS they are, and exactly how they are wired-up.
That will allow you to determine what your total OHM LOAD is.

A SUBWOOFER AMP is typically a CLASS D MONOBLOCK.

You cannot do a proper install of a car audio system without knowing your speaker loads. PERIOD.

So look into that, and then tell us what you find.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by Alien Mantis

You THINK?
( you need to know this stuff )
You cannot do a proper install of a car audio system without knowing your speaker loads. PERIOD.

So look into that, and then tell us what you find.

Knowledge is power... so I'm popping out one of the Solos tonight, I'll let you know.

Thanks a million

[derickveliz2]

Today I had to do the sticker (inspection) in my car, so I took all the wires, mids and tweets out the view. Pass...

Then I went to the local car-audio store and got my self good RCAs. some wires to get ground to the HU from the main ground I have for the amps.

So here I go again taking that back seat out, passengers seat and trim panels around and below HU...

we'll see.

(o: