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Old 10-28-2013, 02:55 PM   #1
CB Spoolmak
 
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Originally Posted by gboezio View Post




Can anyone confirm the thread size of the weld nuts (frame rail) in the pic (2008 Yaris sedan). I bought m10x1.0 & they're too big, so I tried a fine thread m8 I had & it's too small. Would these weld nuts be m10x1.25? Or maybe m9?
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Old 10-31-2013, 08:36 PM   #2
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Exclamation M10 X 1.25 x 25mm Bolts

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Originally Posted by CB Spoolmak View Post
Can anyone confirm the thread size of the weld nuts (frame rail) in the pic (2008 Yaris sedan). I bought m10x1.0 & they're too big, so I tried a fine thread m8 I had & it's too small. Would these weld nuts be m10x1.25? Or maybe m9?
Just to confirm,the bolts required are in fact M10 X 1.25 x 25mm long. I picked them up @ my local Lordco. Thank you gboezio for the pics & info!
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Old 08-20-2013, 03:07 PM   #3
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Awesome job with that DIY hitch!
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Old 10-31-2013, 12:30 AM   #4
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I think they are M10 x 1,5.
As for mirror image, I have made them separately, but yes beside a hole on the right side, I'll check tomorow to see the exact reason.

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Old 10-31-2013, 09:35 PM   #5
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No problems, so thread pitch was 1,25, it's been a while.
The hole on the right side was to clear the exhaust mount, I really suggest to make cardboard templates, they work awesome, if you use it for the holes you may use something harder.
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Old 11-13-2013, 12:46 AM   #6
CB Spoolmak
 
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Question Trailer wiring questions

My Car: 2007 Yaris Sedan, 22000 original kms (senior couple trade in), mint save for the crappy undercoat some genius @ a dealership applied. This should be my ride for the next 10+ years unless I win the lottery.

Wiring harness: T One harness for Yaris sedans, plug & play except for a hot wire that connects to the battery.

My quandry: running that hot wire inside the car along the drivers side w/the factory harness means removing interior trim pieces to get to the factory harness path. Or running the wire out a trunk grommet & along the bottom of the car. Judging by how my Yaris is built,wires go inside the car until they reach their destination. My OCD & my gut tells me I should run the wire inside too.

My concern: If the amount of time it took me to remove the hard plastic threshold from the trunk latch area is any indication (two external pushpins, easy, EIGHT hidden death grip plastic fingers/pins) , I will be running out of swear words before I get the first interior piece out. I have stared @ the interior section of the service manual (microimage link) & am unsure how much interior I will have to remove along the driver side to get to the harness. I have removed the two fuzzy trunk liner pieces ( 5 push pins each, EASY) & I can see the wiring harness disappearing into the forward cabin on the drivers side. I have looked through a few interior/audio threads & saw a few pics w/all the interior out which I don't want to do if at all possible.

My time frame: I have all winter, my yaris is on blocks in the garage. I can take my time to do it right, no excuses!

My frame of reference: Last car I removed interior pieces from (everything but the head liner & dash) was a Datsun 240Z in the eighties. Lots of exposed pushpins or phillips screw heads w/a few hidden alignment pins holding everything in, barely.

My questions: Is the wiring harness just behind the carpeting along the inside of the door jam?

If I remove the front & rear driver side door sill plates (7 & 9 deathgrip clips!) can I get the carpet back to access the harness enough to fish the wire through or will I need to remove more plastic like the wheel well cover next to the back seat and the pillar cover directly below the front shoulder belt.

There seems to be interior differences between the hatch & sedan. My sedan has full plastic trim around the rear seat support frame adding complexity to removing the seat. Can I get the those rear side trim/wheel well pieces out without removing the rear seat?

When the factory manual says something like "disengage" (LOL) the panel pins/clips they mean sliding a putty knife or screwdriver under an edge & work painfully slowly to get the first pin/finger to pop & try not to destroy the panel in a fit of impatient rage because all the little plastic fingers/pins don't want to let go, correct?

This should be a poll: outside, path of least resistance, git er half arsed done, or inside, path of sorrows, but I will be able to sleep @ night because it makes sense to do it this way?

If you are still reading, Thanks in advance for all input!
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Old 11-13-2013, 08:59 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by CB Spoolmak View Post
This should be a poll: outside, path of least resistance, git er half arsed done, or inside, path of sorrows, but I will be able to sleep @ night because it makes sense to do it this way?
There is nothing wrong with running the wire along the underside. This has always been the way I've dealt with the power wire and never any issues. I usually chase it along the brake lines secured with zip ties.

Certainly not an issue to keep you awake at night. There are many more aspects of life reserved for that.
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Old 11-15-2013, 01:25 AM   #8
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To whom it conerns:

Concerning those who have towed with their Yaris. I'm thinking about towing 900 lbs worth of equipment (this includes the entire trailer setup) with my Toyota Yaris hatchback. It has a manual transmission. The trailer will have electric brakes and the tongue weight will be no more than 50 lbs. I drive like a granny (with all due respect), this being that I don't step on the gas or stomp on the brakes. I slowly go forward and cautiously slow down. I plan on regularly traveling across town with my 900 lbs worth of landscape equipment to do lawn jobs (perhaps 15-20 jobs per week). Does anyone have inpute concerning the matter?

Sincerely,
Ronald
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Old 11-15-2013, 01:33 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Ronald Schmittburg View Post
To whom it conerns:

Concerning those who have towed with their Yaris. I'm thinking about towing 900 lbs worth of equipment (this includes the entire trailer setup) with my Toyota Yaris hatchback. It has a manual transmission. The trailer will have electric brakes and the tongue weight will be no more than 50 lbs. I drive like a granny (with all due respect), this being that I don't step on the gas or stomp on the brakes. I slowly go forward and cautiously slow down. I plan on regularly traveling across town with my 900 lbs worth of landscape equipment to do lawn jobs (perhaps 15-20 jobs per week). Does anyone have inpute concerning the matter?

Sincerely,
Ronald
Sounds like the ideal setup! Just take it easy on the clutch and you should be good to go!
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Old 11-17-2013, 07:17 PM   #10
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Well my 5/60000 mile warranty is now gone 2.5 years in.

My next mod on the list? A Curt Trailer hitch, screw the anti-tow Nazis!
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Last edited by BIGTAZ351; 05-14-2019 at 10:46 AM.
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Old 11-17-2013, 07:45 PM   #11
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... screw the anti-tow Nazis!
Amen sister!
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Old 07-03-2014, 05:54 PM   #12
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Amen sister!
First of all, I am a Very LARGE DUDE!

and for the guy who thinks an FX4 F150 weighs 7300 Lbs,
ONLY if it had 1700+ Lbs of crap in the Box or Cab...My 2004 Reg Cab Long Box weighs 5000Lbs, My Brother's 2005 SuperCrew 5.5 box 5300Lbs...These are the New Style w/box frame like in your Photo.

But needless to say I am not afraid of towing with my Auto Equipped Yaris....Up to 1000Lbs
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Old 01-28-2014, 08:43 PM   #13
Snyprwlf47
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Been awhile since I was on YW and I come back to my favorite subject, Yaris towing.

I use a Curt Class 1 Sport hitch on my Yaris and moved from WV to GA towing a 1900 pound U-Haul trailer. The experience was not one I would recommend, it took some getting used to and despite my best efforts I did jackknife during an emergency stop on the interstate. I do however regularly tow my ATV and trailer weighing in at around 700lbs together with little effort.

The record for my towing? 6 miles over rolling hills including an on hill start towing a 2005 F150 FX4 weighing in at around 7300 pounds.

I am still on my original clutch at 140k miles and would consider 1000lbs within the realm of feasible towing on the Yaris. I would recommend an aftermarket intake of some sort however, it doesn't seem like much but the difference for me was a lot less downshifting on small highway hills.

I have attached a couple pictures I had on my pc of different towing with the yaris I have done, The one with my wifes scooter was also loaded down in the back to the max with the trip being just over 1k miles.



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Old 07-07-2014, 01:27 PM   #14
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I did it again. This time with a bigger trailer and wet material. Trailer is totally bottomed out too and I put on my stock springs in the rear to carry the extra weight. Though it doesn't look like it LOL.







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Old 05-28-2015, 01:48 PM   #15
Koco
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2000lb trailer for yaris YIKES!

These companies selling 2000lb trailers are totally !

BEWARE! I am moving Houston to Western Mass and was looking into a small uhaul trailer rental with high hopes. Of course I took a look at my owners manual and found:

Vehicle capacity weight
(occupants + luggage)
kg (lb.) 383 (845)
Towing capacity∗3
(trailer + cargo weight)
kg (lb.) 318 (700)
∗1: With P175/65R14 81S tires
∗2: With P185/60R15 84T tires
∗3: For Canada only

Not sure about the Canada only note.

I'm sure its safe to tow small items and I think a hitch could be convenient addition. Stay safe ya'll!
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Old 06-17-2015, 09:20 PM   #16
DianaLyn
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Smile Hoverlift by Hoverround

I am handicapped but can still drive. It saddens me to read these post. I want to by hoverlift, but not for my hoverround wheelchair. I have a foldup that weights 48#. it won't fit in the trunk. So, the hoverlift wt. is 80#, Swing arm is 40#, and my chair is 48#. Total 168#. Hoverlift is not a trailer. I don't see why I couldn't use this. What is your opinions? Thank you
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Old 06-17-2015, 09:41 PM   #17
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I am handicapped but can still drive. It saddens me to read these post. I want to by hoverlift, but not for my hoverround wheelchair. I have a foldup that weights 48#. it won't fit in the trunk. So, the hoverlift wt. is 80#, Swing arm is 40#, and my chair is 48#. Total 168#. Hoverlift is not a trailer. I don't see why I couldn't use this. What is your opinions? Thank you
168 lbs on a hitch rack type device will be fine. I have a hitch mounted basket that I use to haul my trash cans to the dump/recycling center. I ofter have loads that are in excess of 150 lbs and I don't even feel line anything is back there.
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Old 08-17-2015, 04:33 PM   #18
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Here's something to share. Picked this up end of last year. Its around 1,300 lbs. Just started to go through reconstruction phase with it. Its in desperate need of help. It was towed 50 miles back home and no problems along the way. It honestly felt great behind the Yaris. I had spotter vehicles in front and back of me incase something went wrong. It was sitting for a real long time and wood has lots of rot. Was just hoping it stayed in one piece to make it home which it did. :-) I feel comfortable to pull it again if I have to. However, because most likely I will be loading it up for camping, I will use a truck to get this task done. Gave into buying Truck so it will handle this very easy. I will use the yaris to haul locally if needed since I know the terrain and trailer won't be loaded up for that use. Be Safe!
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