DIY - OEM Power Window Conversion

[CTScott]

Last September I installed aftermarket power windows and locks on Crashy2. I really wanted to use OEM power locks and power window regulators, but they were a bit more expensive (even for used parts) than I wanted to spend for the project, so I decided to go aftermarket. The aftermarket power window setup works with the manual window regulator, so no OEM parts needed to be replaced.

I purchased the power lock kit from A1 Electric and it has been great. I cheaped out on power window kit and purchased one off ebay for about $100 for the 2 door kit. I wondered how long it would last and recently answered that question, when the window rolled half way down and then the gear box of the window motor starting making a horrible sound.

Here is what the aftermarket lock and window kits look like installed:



I decided to replace it with an OEM setup, instead of going another round with aftermarket. The first problem is locating parts for a decent price. The regulator (the scissor lift looking piece) runs $125 new and the power window motor runs $300 new.

I was able to find a used OEM motor from a Sequoia for $35 (almost all 06-11 Toyotas use the same motor) and a regulator for $75. The regulators for the 3 door Yaris are unique to it.

Regulator:


Motor:


The connector for the motor is not present on manual window cars, so I used two of the necessary pins (which I have on hand) and potted the pins into the connector with clear silicone.

My initial thought was that perhaps you could remove the crank mechanism and bolt on the motor in its place, but it turns out that the power an manual regulators are quite different.

Comparison of power window regulator (top) and manual one (bottom):



Replacing the OEM manual window regulator with the OEM power window regulator requires opening the door, disconnecting the window from the regulator, removing the window, and removing and replacing the regulator.

removing the window involves moving it to the position where you have access to both of the regulator to window bolts, removing those two bolts, and pivoting the window forward and then lifting it out.

Here's the left bolt hole:


And the right (accessible through the slot in the door):


And, here is the window removed:


Removing the manual regulator involves removing the two top mounting bolts and the three bolts for the crank section.

Top mount bolts:


Three crank section bolts:


To install the power window regulator you first mount the motor to the regulator and then insert it into the door. The same two top mounting bolts are used, but the motor section requires four bolts instead of three. The picture below shows the three mounting holes for the manual regulator in yellow and the four for the power regulator in red.



I wired the OEM power window motor to the wiring from my aftermarket power window kit. I tested the motor to make sure that I had it wiring in the correct direction, so that up on the switch equaled window moving up.

[dj92]

Thubs up, this is what I am planning to do if i find time for it ;)

[lanemeyer14]

[90tsi]

i've been wanting to do the oe power windows as well. If a man were to purchase the factory door harness and switches does the base chassis allow for plug and play or would still require some "wiring" in?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by 90tsi

i've been wanting to do the oe power windows as well. If a man were to purchase the factory door harness and switches does the base chassis allow for plug and play or would still require some "wiring" in?

No. You would have to do quite a bit of wiring under the dash, as well as change out the Body ECU (which is integrated into the under dash fuse panel). The easiest way to do it is to use an aftermarket switch kit from A1 Electric to drive the OEM motors (as I am now doing).

[90tsi]

Ok cool. Thanx for the info. I wasn't sure in the ecu was different or not.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by 90tsi

Ok cool. Thanx for the info. I wasn't sure in the ecu was different or not.

The main ECU (ECM) is the same, but the body ECU is different.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by TOLMACH

^ Make sure you reinstall all the plastic film, covering all the holes - this film actually does lots of soundproofing.

Correct. And, since you have to lift so much of it up to work on the regulator, you have to be very careful not to rip it.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by TOLMACH

I plan to install an aftermarket power window conversion kit. I plan to later add the power locks kit, hence would try to do all the wiring while working on the power windows. I know it sounds stupid, but I want to buy wire from e-bay since if i buy it here locally it is very expensive. Question: what gauge should I buy? I was thinking to buy gauge 16.

Thanks

(less than 20 bucks for 200 feet)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Rolls-Audi...item3cd396f3d9

just 74 bucks ))
http://www.ebay.com/itm/390469154906?_trksid=m570.l4769

16 AWG would be correct for the windows. You could use that as well for the locks, or drop down to 18 AWG, as they draw considerably less power.

[CTScott]

For the power you really want to have the windows ignition switched, so you will want to add a relay, which uses the pink wire on the ignition switch connector to drive the coil.

Your red wire will then connect through the contacts on the relay to a high current feed. For that look at my remote start wiring guide for the unused 60A connection on the face of the under dash fuse panel. You will want to add an inline fuse between the fuse panel connection and the wire to the relay contacts.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24860

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by TOLMACH

^ Thank you

In the first picture of this thread, the pink and yellow wires that feed the windows motors - do I understand correctly that motors get (ground) from the the doors metal and pink and yellow wires are just two (+) leads; and only one of those wires is actually suppllying (+12V) to the motor at any time when the switch is activated?

(Just trying to figure out the polarity and whether it matters.. or I can hook them and see which way the window goes and then decide the correct connection?)

Thanks again

No ground is connected to the motors, as you have to be able to drive them in both directions. With the aftermarket kit the two motor wires exit the door and go to the power window relay, which handles doing the complete reversal of power and ground to the motors to allow up and down.

[07liftback]

Hey, thanks alot for the write-up!

Are sedan and hatchback window regulators interchangeable? According to an ebay listing, the seller states that they are but I just wanted to confirm.

Do you also have a link to where you purchased your switches/relays? Is it possible to use a stock toyota relay for this or would that unused 60A connection be the best? So you basically used the pink wire in the ignition for the signal but would it be easier to connect it to the cluster for the signal?

Sorry for all the noob questions and thanks again!

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by 07liftback

Hey, thanks alot for the write-up!

Are sedan and hatchback window regulators interchangeable? According to an ebay listing, the seller states that they are but I just wanted to confirm.

Do you also have a link to where you purchased your switches/relays? Is it possible to use a stock toyota relay for this? Where did you wire the relay to for the signal? I was thinking about wiring the relay to the cluster and it's main 12v to the battery directly.

Sorry for all the noob questions and thanks again!

Sedan and 5 door liftback ones are interchangeable. 3 door liftback ones are unique.

I purchased the switches from a1electric.com

You can not use a stock Toyota relay, as it would require changing the body ECU (since the relay lives within there) and the body ECU is within the under dash fuse panel.

An aftermarket power window relay is your best option as it directly wires to the window motors. For where to grab ignition switched and high-current power, see my remote start DIY below:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24860

[07liftback]

Thanks for the quick followup!

[edavidrock]

Hi Scott,
I recently bought a after market power windows and locks kit for my yaris. I am planing to install it by myself. I can install everything but I don't have knowledge about how I can get the main power and the ground. Could you please give some advice for that?
Also when I opened the rear door I saw round unused prong plug after removing rubber bush that was connected to the body. Those plugs are in both side. Can I use this plug or wires to install the power window kits. Is it just installing the fuse so there will be power to these wires?

Thank you

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by edavidrock

Hi Scott,
I recently bought a after market power windows and locks kit for my yaris. I am planing to install it by myself. I can install everything but I don't have knowledge about how I can get the main power and the ground. Could you please give some advice for that?
Also when I opened the rear door I saw round unused prong plug after removing rubber bush that was connected to the body. Those plugs are in both side. Can I use this plug or wires to install the power window kits. Is it just installing the fuse so there will be power to these wires?

Thank you

Look at my remote start DIY for where to grab power in the under dash fuse panel and ground at the various chassis ground bolts.

I would need to see a picture of the connector you found. You may be able to use the wires, but the non-power body ECU won't supply power to them, so you would just be using the wires.

[edavidrock]

Thank you very much. I found the document. Is it the thick black wire or blue wire?
And is there specific way to connect these wires? Do I have to cut the wire?

Also I will send you a picture of the connector later that I am talking earlier.

[CTScott]

The red wire that the arrow points to. That is an empty connector for a fusible link, but a 1/4" spade terminal fits perfectly onto it.