30K throttle service - Page 2 - Toyota Yaris Forums

jaggurnaut · 08-01-2007, 09:39 PM

Sorry for disappearing (internet problems). Got the 30K service + Throttle body cleanup and MAF cleanup for $400 at the only toyota dealer for 50 miles in this backwaters of West Virginia (just moved here from Chicago). Donno any reliable third party service centers and dont even have a place to do DIY services 'cos i live in an apartment with gravel road-side parking. So I am eating it for now. I envy all you guys with your 'garages' and 'driveways'.

Pavel Olavich · 08-03-2007, 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jaggurnaut

Sorry for disappearing (internet problems). Got the 30K service + Throttle body cleanup and MAF cleanup for $400 at the only toyota dealer for 50 miles in this backwaters of West Virginia (just moved here from Chicago). Donno any reliable third party service centers and dont even have a place to do DIY services 'cos i live in an apartment with gravel road-side parking. So I am eating it for now. I envy all you guys with your 'garages' and 'driveways'.

You got scammed! If you look at your maintenence schedule booklet, and if what the dealer says cannot be reconciled to it, then it is probably not necessary. Did they fix a problem? Was your car problem free when you took it there? You got screwed....if you paid with a credit card, place the charge on hold and put it in dispute....then negociate with the dealer for a much lower price.

Don't be so foolish next time...

fnkngrv · 08-03-2007, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pavel Olavich

You got scammed! If you look at your maintenance schedule booklet,

Talking about the schedule book....mine got ruined....anyone know if a PDF for it? I am not really concerned with the warranty stuff as I have a good rapport with the dealer here. I just want to know what the schedule is...thanks in advance if anyone has anything.

Spades · 08-05-2007, 08:00 PM

welcome to the world of auto maintanence...every place you go will reccomend fluid flushes/replacements, filter changes, and fuel injection or carberator cleaning services.

go down to autozone, shucks, napa,ect and buy a air filter...there is your air filter service.

next, dont do the fuel injection or throttle body cleaning s--t unless you have been running s--t gas and your car is running poorly. fuel injection cleanings cause more problems than they fix half the time. the addatives they put in the gas can break debris loose and lodge them in a injector, and the injection flushes normally burn out cataletic converters...they are bad news.

every deal, private mechanic, oil change place, ect, will try to take you for every cent you have. I know, i have worked for quicklubes and dealerships and private companies for about 7 years now...they are all the same...at least the service writers/salesman/owners/managers/whoever is telling you what your car needs.

you have to find someone you trust, and even then you have to be carefull.

P.S. the worst a dirty air filter will do is give you crappy gas milage...the dirt is staying in the filter, its not gonna magicaly get through the filter and attach to the MAF sensor...its just gonna give you bad gas milage and make the car run like crap. its a good idea to keep up with vehicle maintanence, just let the buyer beware.

change the air filter out every 30k miles(you can do it yourself, it isnt hard,only one way these air filters fit in and you dont need any tools),the fuel filter 15k-30k miles depending on how cheap of gas you buy. for the rest of the maintanence, follow what your cars owners manual says, and call reputable dealerships and private shops when you need a service and get prices on it BEFORE you walk in.

Toyota Technician · 08-17-2007, 09:20 PM

P.S. the worst a dirty air filter will do is give you crappy gas milage...the dirt is staying in the filter, its not gonna magicaly get through the filter and attach to the MAF sensor...its just gonna give you bad gas milage and make the car run like crap. its a good idea to keep up with vehicle maintanence, just let the buyer beware.

change the air filter out every 30k miles(you can do it yourself, it isnt hard,only one way these air filters fit in and you dont need any tools),the fuel filter 15k-30k miles depending on how cheap of gas you buy. for the rest of the maintanence, follow what your cars owners manual says, and call reputable dealerships and private shops when you need a service and get prices on it BEFORE you walk in.[/QUOTE]

your right dirt will not magicaly get through your a/f,particulant matter WILL pass through ur a/f ,ANY a/f will have some particulant matter pass through af's only filter down so far just like oil filters, c'mon u guys dont really think that a a/f that filters down to 10-15 microns is going to catch particulant matter that is 5 microns (same for oil filters). if u can go 30k befor u change
ur af u must be in some clean air,here where i live if u get 10-12 k ur lucky so alot of this has to do with where u live.

also i wouldnt always go by ur manual, the yaris surrpost to be 100k coolent well i have tested coolent at 50-60 k and only have 0 degree protection it is a must to have at lest -32 degree protection WHERE I LIVE everywhere will be different.

good quality throttal body cleaner(bg) will not harm ur catalist in any way.

NOT all dealers are their to take every cent u have if i sell something at work i can walk u to ur car and directly show y u need this and the conditions this will cause etc.

and since were throwing out numbers how about ase certified, toyota certified, ford certified, nashville auto deisel college grad-associates degree and numerous other certifications in auto and deisel (actually over 100)

so i know what i am talking about

churp · 08-18-2007, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Toyota Technician

......NOT all dealers are their to take every cent u have if i sell something at work i can walk u to ur car and directly show y u need this and the conditions this will cause etc......

I agree, but.....IMO they follow the book because they're liable if they don't. I change my oil every 5,000 or less, change af before it's dirty, check antifreeze every fall, keep track of every drop of gas (to insure gas mileage doesn't change drastically), etc. I don't clean the TB or rotate tires unless I see or feel a problem...and then I would do it myself, paying someone to do it on a regular schedule (if it aint broke....), to me is not cost effective. Try to tell a manufacturer that his syn oil or extended life antifreeze claims are bogus.

Pavel Olavich · 08-20-2007, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by churp

...I change my oil every 5,000 or less, change af before it's dirty...

It is foolish to judge oil based on it's dirty color. A good detergent oil is supposed to show dirtiness faster because a good oil keeps the dirt OFF the parts, and in suspension in the oil, and for this reason it looks dirty faster.

Dirty oil means that dirt is not on the internal engine parts.

Better to judge when to change the oil based on milage on the oil, time too if you don't drive so much....also driving conditions, for example if you take a lot of very short trips, change the oil more frequent.

churp · 08-20-2007, 11:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pavel Olavich

It is foolish to judge oil based on it's dirty color. A good detergent oil is supposed to show dirtiness faster because a good oil keeps the dirt OFF the parts, and in suspension in the oil, and for this reason it looks dirty faster.

Dirty oil means that dirt is not on the internal engine parts.

Better to judge when to change the oil based on milage on the oil, time too if you don't drive so much....also driving conditions, for example if you take a lot of very short trips, change the oil more frequent.

I agree with you Pavel...looks aren't a good judge of oil. I change every 5k because I'm looking for this car to reach retirement (I'll have at least 150k on then, 5 to 6 years), and I won't judge people wrong for going 15k between oil changes. I just don't think the Throttle body requires regular service (just like carburators didn't) until the performance shows it's needed. I've driven too many FI cars for 200k without the TB causing any problems.

GabL · 08-30-2007, 09:17 AM

Just took the car for the 32K service at the dealer yesterday, they checked the brake and said they have to lube it as it is dry?? Comes to $106 for front and rear brakes, on top of the $105 32K service... asked the service advisor why need to work on the brakes, as it is only 32K, he said it needs to be done on all the Yaris. Is this true? But after the service, the E brake is much tighter, as before, I need to pull it all the way up to secure the car, but now, I only need to go about half way.

ttufrosty · 08-30-2007, 11:21 AM

I have yet to hit 30000 miles, but will probably be there in a month.

When I was at my dealership yesterday getting a part replaced under warranty (side light) the service rep reminded me that my 30k service was coming up. Didnt mention a throttle body cleaning, but did tell me it would involve flushing my coolant, transmission gear oil, and change my oil. All for the low low price of $542.00. Considering I can do both of those on my own for a tenth of the cost, I just nodded my head so I could get my car and leave.

Continuing my rant on service reps, the part I had to replace yesterday was the side blinker on the quarter panel. The plastic clip had busted and they had ordered the part to replace it. So I go in the manager does a write up and tells me he has to have it taken into the garage and have a technician do a replacement. Basically unclip the busted light and clip in the new one. 1 to 2 minute job at best. 45 minutes later I was finally getting my car. So when he goes off and tells me about this $542 tune up that I needed you can get the idea that I didnt care.

One other thing, doest our MAINT REQUIRED light go off every 5,000 miles. If I remember correctly that is what it is set at. When I go to my local dealership, their big service required board lists the service requirements of having the oil changed every 3k miles. So even though the car and Toyota would have us change our oil at 5k the dealership wants 3k. Again another example of dealerships trying to scam uneducated people out of money.

Sorry for the off topic rant, just needed to vent.

ChinoCharles · 08-30-2007, 01:27 PM

You know, you guys with higher mileage Yarii should be doing some self service DIY's so the rest of us know what we have to do to save hundreds by skipping Toyota service departments.

ttufrosty · 08-30-2007, 10:23 PM

I plan on doing a DIY on a manual transmission gear fluid change as soon as my Redline mt90 shows up. Other than that let me know what type of stuff you want and when I change it out I will make sure to take pics and all.

ChinoCharles · 08-30-2007, 10:26 PM

Tranny fluid, brake fluid... anything! I've never done any of this stuff, but bet your ass I'll be trying it for the first time on the hatch.

ttufrosty · 08-30-2007, 11:00 PM

I am the same way, never done it before, but I plan on doing everything on my own. Having this site provide the factory manual helps out tremendously.

Black Yaris · 08-30-2007, 11:46 PM

we can do your trans next time you are out this way Chino, I have everything here... plus you can buy Redline, Royal Purple or Amsoil with in 2 miles of my house :)

I do have a question, since we have a hydrolic clutch, I asume it has fluid as well, anyone know how to change that? I would like to swap that over to synthetic as well to see if there is a change

socko · 09-08-2007, 11:42 AM

I just Seafoamed my wife's car - it's really great stuff. 6 or 7 ounces in the throttle body (use vacuum line to PCV valve to suck it out or the can or out of a cup), one ounce per gallon in fuel, and about 1/3 - 1/2 can in oil about 20 or 30 miles just before an oil change. Don't know if it is necessary at 30000 miles but some people do it alot more often than that. I plan on Seafoaming every vehicle I own at at least 60000 miles. Seafoam comes in 16 oz. cans at most auto parts stores. Caution: after doing the throttle body, wait about 10 minutes then restart the car - you'll get lots of white smoke but if you drive the car 10 or so miles (running the RPM's up to about 4000 it will quickly burn off).

drifto · 09-11-2007, 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by socko

you'll get lots of white smoke but if you drive the car 10 or so miles (running the RPM's up to about 4000 it will quickly burn off).

be careful with that fuel injector stuff guys, it heats the living crap out of your catalytic converter. its best to let it idle out for a while before you take off and hit high rpm. could set a misire code too (misfires are what overheats and kills your catalyic converter)

also our hydraulic clutch takes dot3 brake fluid. the clutch master cylinder works similarly to the brake master clyinder, thus same fluid.

ttufrosty · 09-09-2007, 01:05 AM

What do you do at 11:00 pm on a Saturday night? Why change your manual transmission oil!

So, I got bored and decided it was time to change the tranny oil. I ended up using Royal Purple Max-Gear 75w-90. Besides stopping to take pictures (DIY coming soon) it was really pretty easy. 2 quarts of oil out, 2 quarts in. Before I changed the oil I drove around the block to warm up the oil for easier removal, and the gears were grinding a bit, a problem I have had for awhile. After putting in the new oil. It is hard to describe how smooth the changes are. I am looking forward to Monday morning and my normal work commute to really see the difference.

As I said I will put up a DIY sometime this week to help others out. Honestly, it is almost as easy as changing the normal motor oil.

08-01-2007, 09:39 PM	#1
jaggurnaut Drives: 2007 - Yaris Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Morgantown, WV Posts: 4	thanks for all replies Sorry for disappearing (internet problems). Got the 30K service + Throttle body cleanup and MAF cleanup for $400 at the only toyota dealer for 50 miles in this backwaters of West Virginia (just moved here from Chicago). Donno any reliable third party service centers and dont even have a place to do DIY services 'cos i live in an apartment with gravel road-side parking. So I am eating it for now. I envy all you guys with your 'garages' and 'driveways'.

08-05-2007, 08:00 PM	#4
Spades The Hated One View User's Garage Drives: 07 White Manual Sedan Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Oregon,USA Posts: 390	welcome to the world of auto maintanence...every place you go will reccomend fluid flushes/replacements, filter changes, and fuel injection or carberator cleaning services. go down to autozone, shucks, napa,ect and buy a air filter...there is your air filter service. next, dont do the fuel injection or throttle body cleaning s--t unless you have been running s--t gas and your car is running poorly. fuel injection cleanings cause more problems than they fix half the time. the addatives they put in the gas can break debris loose and lodge them in a injector, and the injection flushes normally burn out cataletic converters...they are bad news. every deal, private mechanic, oil change place, ect, will try to take you for every cent you have. I know, i have worked for quicklubes and dealerships and private companies for about 7 years now...they are all the same...at least the service writers/salesman/owners/managers/whoever is telling you what your car needs. you have to find someone you trust, and even then you have to be carefull. P.S. the worst a dirty air filter will do is give you crappy gas milage...the dirt is staying in the filter, its not gonna magicaly get through the filter and attach to the MAF sensor...its just gonna give you bad gas milage and make the car run like crap. its a good idea to keep up with vehicle maintanence, just let the buyer beware. change the air filter out every 30k miles(you can do it yourself, it isnt hard,only one way these air filters fit in and you dont need any tools),the fuel filter 15k-30k miles depending on how cheap of gas you buy. for the rest of the maintanence, follow what your cars owners manual says, and call reputable dealerships and private shops when you need a service and get prices on it BEFORE you walk in. __________________

08-30-2007, 11:46 PM	#15
Black Yaris der Zeck View User's Garage Drives: '05 Audi A4 1.8t quattro Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Toledo, OH Posts: 5,231	we can do your trans next time you are out this way Chino, I have everything here... plus you can buy Redline, Royal Purple or Amsoil with in 2 miles of my house :) I do have a question, since we have a hydrolic clutch, I asume it has fluid as well, anyone know how to change that? I would like to swap that over to synthetic as well to see if there is a change __________________

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Toyota Throttle Body Spacer: the Best Fuel-Saving Device	davidmills	Performance Modifications	1	07-01-2007 11:38 PM
Service in Phoenix	Bretsuaz	Southwest	4	06-10-2007 07:14 PM
toyotafest 2007	esquiva	Photo-Video-Media Gallery	36	05-15-2007 12:03 PM
Metro Atlanta Dealer Service Experiences	redyaris	Southeast	2	03-21-2007 03:59 PM
Do I need to hava a 1000-mile maintenance service??	hans_fh	DIY / Maintenance / Service	3	11-24-2006 06:13 AM

08-17-2007, 09:20 PM	#5
Toyota Technician Drives: 2007 Red Yaris LB MT Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: west virginia Posts: 12	P.S. the worst a dirty air filter will do is give you crappy gas milage...the dirt is staying in the filter, its not gonna magicaly get through the filter and attach to the MAF sensor...its just gonna give you bad gas milage and make the car run like crap. its a good idea to keep up with vehicle maintanence, just let the buyer beware. change the air filter out every 30k miles(you can do it yourself, it isnt hard,only one way these air filters fit in and you dont need any tools),the fuel filter 15k-30k miles depending on how cheap of gas you buy. for the rest of the maintanence, follow what your cars owners manual says, and call reputable dealerships and private shops when you need a service and get prices on it BEFORE you walk in.[/QUOTE] your right dirt will not magicaly get through your a/f,particulant matter WILL pass through ur a/f ,ANY a/f will have some particulant matter pass through af's only filter down so far just like oil filters, c'mon u guys dont really think that a a/f that filters down to 10-15 microns is going to catch particulant matter that is 5 microns (same for oil filters). if u can go 30k befor u change ur af u must be in some clean air,here where i live if u get 10-12 k ur lucky so alot of this has to do with where u live. also i wouldnt always go by ur manual, the yaris surrpost to be 100k coolent well i have tested coolent at 50-60 k and only have 0 degree protection it is a must to have at lest -32 degree protection WHERE I LIVE everywhere will be different. good quality throttal body cleaner(bg) will not harm ur catalist in any way. NOT all dealers are their to take every cent u have if i sell something at work i can walk u to ur car and directly show y u need this and the conditions this will cause etc. and since were throwing out numbers how about ase certified, toyota certified, ford certified, nashville auto deisel college grad-associates degree and numerous other certifications in auto and deisel (actually over 100) so i know what i am talking about

08-30-2007, 09:17 AM	#9
GabL I want JDM bumpers! View User's Garage Drives: 5 Dr Yaris RS in Blazing Blue Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Toronto Posts: 419	Just took the car for the 32K service at the dealer yesterday, they checked the brake and said they have to lube it as it is dry?? Comes to $106 for front and rear brakes, on top of the $105 32K service... asked the service advisor why need to work on the brakes, as it is only 32K, he said it needs to be done on all the Yaris. Is this true? But after the service, the E brake is much tighter, as before, I need to pull it all the way up to secure the car, but now, I only need to go about half way.

08-30-2007, 11:21 AM	#10
ttufrosty Drives: 2007 Yaris Liftback Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: DFW, USA Posts: 50	I have yet to hit 30000 miles, but will probably be there in a month. When I was at my dealership yesterday getting a part replaced under warranty (side light) the service rep reminded me that my 30k service was coming up. Didnt mention a throttle body cleaning, but did tell me it would involve flushing my coolant, transmission gear oil, and change my oil. All for the low low price of $542.00. Considering I can do both of those on my own for a tenth of the cost, I just nodded my head so I could get my car and leave. Continuing my rant on service reps, the part I had to replace yesterday was the side blinker on the quarter panel. The plastic clip had busted and they had ordered the part to replace it. So I go in the manager does a write up and tells me he has to have it taken into the garage and have a technician do a replacement. Basically unclip the busted light and clip in the new one. 1 to 2 minute job at best. 45 minutes later I was finally getting my car. So when he goes off and tells me about this $542 tune up that I needed you can get the idea that I didnt care. One other thing, doest our MAINT REQUIRED light go off every 5,000 miles. If I remember correctly that is what it is set at. When I go to my local dealership, their big service required board lists the service requirements of having the oil changed every 3k miles. So even though the car and Toyota would have us change our oil at 5k the dealership wants 3k. Again another example of dealerships trying to scam uneducated people out of money. Sorry for the off topic rant, just needed to vent.

08-30-2007, 01:27 PM	#11
ChinoCharles Banned Drives: LB Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: OH Posts: 7,787	You know, you guys with higher mileage Yarii should be doing some self service DIY's so the rest of us know what we have to do to save hundreds by skipping Toyota service departments.

08-30-2007, 10:23 PM	#12
ttufrosty Drives: 2007 Yaris Liftback Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: DFW, USA Posts: 50	I plan on doing a DIY on a manual transmission gear fluid change as soon as my Redline mt90 shows up. Other than that let me know what type of stuff you want and when I change it out I will make sure to take pics and all.

08-30-2007, 10:26 PM	#13
ChinoCharles Banned Drives: LB Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: OH Posts: 7,787	Tranny fluid, brake fluid... anything! I've never done any of this stuff, but bet your ass I'll be trying it for the first time on the hatch.

08-30-2007, 11:00 PM	#14
ttufrosty Drives: 2007 Yaris Liftback Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: DFW, USA Posts: 50	I am the same way, never done it before, but I plan on doing everything on my own. Having this site provide the factory manual helps out tremendously.

09-08-2007, 11:42 AM	#16
socko Drives: 07' Liftback, man., Bayou Blue Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Missouri, USA Posts: 20	I just Seafoamed my wife's car - it's really great stuff. 6 or 7 ounces in the throttle body (use vacuum line to PCV valve to suck it out or the can or out of a cup), one ounce per gallon in fuel, and about 1/3 - 1/2 can in oil about 20 or 30 miles just before an oil change. Don't know if it is necessary at 30000 miles but some people do it alot more often than that. I plan on Seafoaming every vehicle I own at at least 60000 miles. Seafoam comes in 16 oz. cans at most auto parts stores. Caution: after doing the throttle body, wait about 10 minutes then restart the car - you'll get lots of white smoke but if you drive the car 10 or so miles (running the RPM's up to about 4000 it will quickly burn off).

09-09-2007, 01:05 AM	#18
ttufrosty Drives: 2007 Yaris Liftback Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: DFW, USA Posts: 50	What do you do at 11:00 pm on a Saturday night? Why change your manual transmission oil! So, I got bored and decided it was time to change the tranny oil. I ended up using Royal Purple Max-Gear 75w-90. Besides stopping to take pictures (DIY coming soon) it was really pretty easy. 2 quarts of oil out, 2 quarts in. Before I changed the oil I drove around the block to warm up the oil for easier removal, and the gears were grinding a bit, a problem I have had for awhile. After putting in the new oil. It is hard to describe how smooth the changes are. I am looking forward to Monday morning and my normal work commute to really see the difference. As I said I will put up a DIY sometime this week to help others out. Honestly, it is almost as easy as changing the normal motor oil.