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03-23-2009, 11:28 PM | #19 |
School'er of hard knocks
Drives: Silver Yaris 4dr. HB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Sudbury, On
Posts: 556
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I have all those tools, minus the "Gator-Grip". Biggest tool scam ever created.
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03-24-2009, 12:24 AM | #20 | |
'07 to '12:2 wipers to 1?
Drives: '12 5-door LE & '14 5-door LE Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Orlando
Posts: 1,999
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Quote:
BLASPHEMY!!!!! <<lol pb and the other lubes (wd-40, etc) actually will seep down to the threads...but whatever... the deed has been done and you have been victorious....
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03-24-2009, 01:20 AM | #21 |
The Hated One
Drives: 07 White Manual Sedan Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Oregon,USA
Posts: 390
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next time you hit a bolt that wont budge, before you round it out...just grab a propane torch, cutting torch, or a powerfull butane micro torch. get that sombeech almost red hot, then grab your wrench or socket, get some good leverage, and POP...that technique i have used for years...on much more offensive materials like exhaust studs and bolts that have been rusted and heated on for 20+ years.
if you want the sucker to snap if you are planning on cutting it out anyway, you might as well buy a can of CRC freeze or equivalent can of bolt freezing goodness. personally, i would have just hit it with heat and a long breaker bar...if you hit it with some heat and alot of leverage BEFORE it gets rounded, most stuff will break free.
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03-24-2009, 02:19 AM | #22 | |
Drives: 08 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: California - Bay Area
Posts: 2,773
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Quote:
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03-24-2009, 09:51 PM | #23 | |
The Hated One
Drives: 07 White Manual Sedan Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Oregon,USA
Posts: 390
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Quote:
also, if you use a penetrating lubricant (there are dozens of products out there that all do the same thing) around the base of the bolt, it would have seeped down, because the bolt has those locking tabs that keep the sucker from accidentally comming out, it also means its not a perfectly flat surface, so it has gaps in the seal of bolt head to seat bracket...meaning a penetrating lube could squeak down to the threads, and also make the opposing teeth on the head of the bolt less effective. i would have just swabbed a couple rags around the bracket to ensure that the lube didnt get to the carpet, then filled the seat bracket divot with a lightweight penetrating oil, and let it soak in a couple hours. if i couldnt get it out with a 18"+ breaker bar, i would hit it with a bolt freeze product if i planned on having to chop it up anyway. P.S. the easy out sockets with the little teeth he has pictured dont work for @#$% in my experience. there are some mechanics grade kits that use a tap to basically thread a snapped off bolt or rounded head so that when you go counter clockwise, it threads a special bit on tighter. these kits work well, but for a quality kit you will pay out the nose.
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