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Old 07-12-2009, 09:31 AM   #1
CTScott
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Hmmmmmm.

Try jumping ACC (white pin 2) to IG2 (pink pin 6) instead.

You will still need the ACC cut relay bypass (jumpering 3 to 4) in place, as the ACC cut relay is between the keyswitch and the radio.
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Old 07-12-2009, 12:34 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
Hmmmmmm.

Try jumping ACC (white pin 2) to IG2 (pink pin 6) instead.

You will still need the ACC cut relay bypass (jumpering 3 to 4) in place, as the ACC cut relay is between the keyswitch and the radio.
This was a difficult one to pull off due to the IG2 wire being a much smaller gauge than pins 1 and 2, but I got 'er done. Still no change. The stereo and instrument panel still cut out during a start.

Thank again for feeding me ideas, though.
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Old 07-12-2009, 10:12 AM   #3
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Would bypassing the whole ACC cut system be detrimental to the accessories/starter? I mean, there's a reason why this system exists, right?

If so, I'm not sure how you would wire this up exactly, but you could use the power from the START position to compensate for the "hole" of the ACC cut, only for the radio, if you know what I mean.
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Old 07-12-2009, 11:21 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by eTiMaGo View Post
Would bypassing the whole ACC cut system be detrimental to the accessories/starter? I mean, there's a reason why this system exists, right?

If so, I'm not sure how you would wire this up exactly, but you could use the power from the START position to compensate for the "hole" of the ACC cut, only for the radio, if you know what I mean.
His original intention was to just slip power in during the "cut". This is possible, but would require a relay and a diode. When researching the "cut" circuit I found that the sole purpose of the circuit is to keep things from flickering, as opposed to protecting the starter.
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Old 07-12-2009, 01:59 PM   #5
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Check the voltage on IG1 and IG2 to ground during starting. I am 99% sure that either or both of them remain hot during starting.

If that is the case, then tap from there directly to the radio's switched power input (Grey wire in pin 3 of the OEM harness).
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