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#1 | |
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ellenbetty
Drives: 2 2007 Yaris 3 door liftback Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Stow Ohio
Posts: 182
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Quote:
I guess what you English (Sorry you folks down under) call park lights us Americans call running lights.
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#2 |
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ellenbetty
Drives: 2 2007 Yaris 3 door liftback Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Stow Ohio
Posts: 182
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A long time is too vage. My Mom has problems with her Subrau starting if the Subrau is not started at least one a week and driven at least for 1/2 hour.
Since I have 2 Yarises, not driving both for a week or one for 2 weeks is something that some times occures. Is 2 weeks too long a time between starts? Maybe I should rephase my question. Does any one know which wire to the fog lamp switch needs to be cut to kill that light? Will I need to install a second switch if I cut the wire to the light in the fog lamp switch? |
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#3 | |
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Quote:
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#4 |
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ellenbetty
Drives: 2 2007 Yaris 3 door liftback Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Stow Ohio
Posts: 182
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I am not certain which red and yellow wires you are talking about. Are you taking about switching two wires on the wiring harness?
Or are you talking about switching the wires connected to the cut yellow wire in the steering column? |
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#5 | |
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Quote:
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#6 |
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ellenbetty
Drives: 2 2007 Yaris 3 door liftback Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Stow Ohio
Posts: 182
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I do not understand why flipping those wires would turn off the light in the switch. All that does is reverse the flow of electrons through the switch. There is a circuit board behind the switch. Are you saying that that circuit board has a relay that is confused because of the direction the DC electric current is flowing?
I will give flipping the wires a try. |
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#7 |
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Yes it will turn the LED off , if the switch is off .
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#8 |
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Banned
Drives: 2009 TOYOTA YARIS SEDAN Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: KINGSLAND, GA
Posts: 381
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Even so, you don't want that switch wired straight to your battery.
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#9 |
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ellenbetty
Drives: 2 2007 Yaris 3 door liftback Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Stow Ohio
Posts: 182
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Who said any thing about wiring that switch directly to the battery? I know what happens when you attach a 20 gage wire to the negative post of the battery and ground it. The wire vaporizes. I know that the cable coming from negative post of the battery is as thick as my small finger and is split into a number of wires to power the electrical system for the entire car with fuses to regulate how much power goes to each wire.
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#10 | |
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Banned
Drives: 2009 TOYOTA YARIS SEDAN Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: KINGSLAND, GA
Posts: 381
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Quote:
Well... let's see... If it lights up when the car is off then the power to light it comes from... (dramatic drum roll) the battery. The battery is the only source of electrical power in your car when it is not running, but I'm sure you know that. I didn't say anything about shorting out the battery with a wire. Chill out. BTW, fuses (and certainly auto fuses) don't regulate anything. They are just a cheap form of overcurrent protection. I do like your reference to electron flow vs. hole flow though...
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#11 |
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ellenbetty
Drives: 2 2007 Yaris 3 door liftback Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Stow Ohio
Posts: 182
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O, is that what you meant. Of course there are hot wires even with the ignition off. Something has to power the clock, and power the emergency flashers, when the ignition switch is off.
I guess I did over state the function of auto fuses. Thickness of wires, a number of wires, a number of relays, a number of switches, a number of resistors, combined with a number of fuses attached to the wires, does divide the electrical flow and provide enough resistance to reduce power level coming from the negative terminal to a safe level for each wire. I figure if all the power available in the battery have just 2 wires going to a single switch and 2 relays to hold back the current to those 2 fog lamp bulbs and 2 dash lights, those 2 wires would have to be a lot thicker than 18 gage to avoid being melted when I turn on the fog lamps. |
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#12 |
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ellenbetty
Drives: 2 2007 Yaris 3 door liftback Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Stow Ohio
Posts: 182
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I tried flipping the red yellow wires connected to the switch. The only change is that the light in the switch now is brighter when the fog lamps are off and the ignition switch is on.
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#13 |
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ellenbetty
Drives: 2 2007 Yaris 3 door liftback Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Stow Ohio
Posts: 182
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I redid the first set. Even with the ignition off the fog lamps in the first set will not turn off.
Any ideas? |
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#14 |
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Put it back the way it was ,the first time .
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#15 |
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ellenbetty
Drives: 2 2007 Yaris 3 door liftback Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Stow Ohio
Posts: 182
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You may have forgotten I own 2 Yarises. The first Yaris has the problem of fog lamps always on. The second Yaris has the problem with on off switch always lit.
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#16 | |
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Quote:
around , should be problem solved , but it might end up with the switch LED permantly on , and the reason for that is something to do with the way the Daytime running lights are wired , and as i don't have them i can not advise a solution , you might want to talk with CTScott , Try PMing him |
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#17 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ULTIMATEDrives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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The switches with some of the kits (or at least the one I received with mine) really aren't designed to be used with the OEM wiring method. To make the light turn off when the car is off requires modification of the circuit board within the switch.
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#18 |
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ellenbetty
Drives: 2 2007 Yaris 3 door liftback Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Stow Ohio
Posts: 182
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Well my 2 Yarises are different. One has power windows and power mirrors (the Yaris with the fog lamps always on problem). The other Yaris without power windows has the light in the switch always on problem.
I tried swapping the yellow and red wires on the Yaris with power windows. Zero effect on the Yaris with always on fog lamps. |
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