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#1 |
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Im going outside now to try and figure out my horn problem. If the problem is the relay, then I will not be taking apart my bumper. But if the relay is sending power, then I will be forced to remove the bumper to directly test the horn/most likely buy a new one, at which time I will also take a video of the entire install.
be back later! |
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#2 |
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Well congrats.....
I foudnout my horn works. But absolutely NO wire in the harness received power when I press the horn. Yet if I run positive power to the horn it sounds loud and clear.... So something is wrong with the wires between my steering wheel, and the fuse box harness in the engine bar :( (maybe even the relay) But atleast now I know that warranty will cover that and I don't have to worry about it. As for your fogs, look at my attachment. Its VERY simple. Engine bay the fogs will have two wires, a red one, and a black, the black I show goes to battery ground. The red goes into the modified red cable that splits into two, and that new red cable as you see goes into those two pin slots in the fuse box of the engine bay. Inside the car is a different story. As you were told, the relay that came seperate is installed by the brakes. Where all the other relays and fuses are by your feet in the car. From the entire mess of cables you have, one end which connects to the fog light switch, one end that ahs a relay, and all the other ends that only have 1 wire going to them, go ahead and cut off EVERYTHING except for the end that connects to the fog light switch(and all the cable/slack that can be left with it). The end goes into the fog light switch, and the red cable goes under the steering column harness. The black goes to ground. And your done. Yellow wire goes nowhere, but somehow it receives power when the fog light switch is pressed to be cause not to ground that out. Garm, nor anyone else can explain to me why this happens. Nor why the switch cant light up when the other lights are on, why it only lights up when its pressed, which sucks kindof. Cause I have a cable hanging doing nothing. |
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#3 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 Yaris Liftback Black Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Illinois
Posts: 321
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Pictures!!!!!!!!!
PICS!!!!!!!
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() They're aimed a lil high, but it's raining so I can't adjust them. I'll lower them just a tad bit when it's dry.
__________________
2008 YARIS/VITZ LIFTBACK - BLACK SAND PEARL Representing The Midwest! http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3132598 |
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#4 |
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http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...&postcount=795
Bi-xenon headlights, and xenon(meaning HID) Fogs!! |
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#5 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 Yaris Liftback Black Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Illinois
Posts: 321
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sick ass sedan lafiro!
__________________
2008 YARIS/VITZ LIFTBACK - BLACK SAND PEARL Representing The Midwest! http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3132598 |
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#6 |
![]() Drives: Yaris 2008 Sedan Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Amherst, MA
Posts: 5
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Thanks for the detailed response. To clarify: My switch is of configuration 1. The black wire is ground, because it has a eyelet, so I grounded it near the specified bolt near the clutch. According to your instructions, this black wire, (pin 1) should go to Conn D20 -Pin 2? For manual transmissions, is this Conn just laying near the stick below the console?
Also, according to your instructions, it appears that I have the same configuration minus the ground. I have the red wire tapped into pin 4 of Conn D4 and the yellow wire tapped into Pin 3 - Conn D4. Would you agree that the misplacement of the black wire would cause my problem? |
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#7 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ULTIMATEDrives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
The black wire with the eyelet is only ground if the switch is hooked up to the relay assembly included with the kit. When you wire the switch into the OEM setup (using the OEM wiring and OEM relay) then that wire needs to see illumination power. D20 is the unused connector in the console on a manual transmission Yaris. |
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