Rear suspension - Page 8 - Toyota Yaris Forums

ddongbap · 12-02-2009, 02:22 AM

I kinda get the feeling that people with regular drop springs aren't supposed to do this.

enobmort42 · 12-02-2009, 02:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ddongbap

I kinda get the feeling that people with regular drop springs aren't supposed to do this.

I hope that's the case! I just have some TRD springs on my stock shocks, until I have enough for the TRD ones... The instructions don't say anything about the pivot point...

kngrsll · 12-02-2009, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ddongbap

I kinda get the feeling that people with regular drop springs aren't supposed to do this.

why do you feel that? to me, that seems like the ideal candidate.

fmicle · 12-02-2009, 02:48 AM

I've been running with this mod for almost 2 weeks now and haven't had any issues so far. I've only had the baby in the back, no other loads or longer trips and the roads are decent where I drive, so no big bumps or anything. I haven't heard any bumping, other than just the springs a couple of times after I installed them, probably from just setting in...

I am running on Progress springs though, with a medium drop of 1.4". I'll keep an eye on it though, but I've seen the alignment numbers on the rear axle with this mod and they look perfect, I would probably do my best to keep it that way.

Oh and the handling (with the new Toyo T1R's that I got) is amazing

ddongbap · 12-02-2009, 10:39 AM

I think the T1Rs are doing the grunt work of the handling.

On a side note, I installed the 23mm rear sway bar. IDK what I'm supposed to be feeling though.

fmicle · 12-02-2009, 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ddongbap

IDK what I'm supposed to be feeling though.

Less body roll (swinging from side to side) when cornering, changing lanes, etc. The car should feel more "planted" on the road and you should be able to take turns at higher speeds than before.

Disclaimer: please drive responsibly!

ddongbap · 12-02-2009, 11:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fmicle

Less body roll (swinging from side to side) when cornering, changing lanes, etc. The car should feel more "planted" on the road and you should be able to take turns at higher speeds than before.

Disclaimer: please drive responsibly!

I'm already on coilovers, so most of the bodyroll reductions went down after the coils.

detroiter · 12-02-2009, 10:42 AM

I just got an alignment check and everything came back well within factory specs while using the higher bolt point. ill throw the numbers up soon...

ddongbap · 12-02-2009, 12:48 PM

Cause Toyota sells TRD shocks and springs w/o saying anything about the second set of holes.

fmicle · 12-02-2009, 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ddongbap

Cause Toyota sells TRD shocks and springs w/o saying anything about the second set of holes.

Toyota also says you can put 14" and 15" wheels on your car and no mention of bigger sizes and as far as I know there was a photo posted here with someone having 19" wheels on the Yaris. Plenty of people have 17"s and I had 16"s until 2 weeks ago

YarisSedan · 12-02-2009, 08:58 PM

Hmm i put my car on rack tonight and took a bunch of pictures. Ill post everything tonight if i have time when i get home. The rear springs look partially compressed. Half the coils are compressed and touching. You couldnt even fit ap iece of paper between half of them. I think this could be why the rear end feels lower and appears to be lower. It actually is. Also why the rear feels stiffer because this should increase the spring rate since its under a big preload now. . The rear beam is only maybe 2-3 inches away from the gas tank. I think the clunk is either the beam making contact with the filler neck or the top of the tank or the springs just bottoming out and hitting the bump stop. I think it could be a combination of any of them.

So i think if you did this mod on factory springs you would have some gain. Would even out the rear end so it dosnt sit abnormally high and get all the benifit still without the issue some of us who lowered the car have. Ill post the pics tonight so you guys can see what i mean. Hopefully loren can take a look at them and give us his thoughts.

YarisSedan · 12-02-2009, 10:26 PM

Jason@SportsCar · 05-20-2011, 11:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YarisSedan

This does not look good to me... Moving the front of the axle up puts the lower rear spring perch at a bad angle. You now have a lot of side loading on the spring.

On top of that the axle hits the gas tank?

Either of the first two would stop me from doing this mod... But the bigger reason not to (for me) is there are almost no SCCA classes (until you get up to Mod - no, not Steet Mod - I'm talking full tube-frame Mod classes) that allow suspension pick up points to be moved. If you want to change the toe, install the shims.

Autocross72 · 05-21-2011, 03:10 AM

For me the SCCA rules don't really matter since I have a Street Mod2 1972 240Z (thus the username/email). I'm just trying to make my daily driver fun to drive.

I do agree that the springs seem to have an awful lot of side load, which doesn't seem good.

I don't think raising the pivot point is the CAUSE of the axle hitting the gas tank. That would be due to ride height & supnsion travel. The axle would still hit the gas tank if the lower pivot is used if the ridevheight is too low, or the suspension compresses too much.

YarisSedan · 12-02-2009, 10:31 PM

So first picture the area i circled is the area i am concerned about. But now that i think about it when i removed the bar i had to struggled so its a possibility it may have caused some of the scratching on the gas tank. My plan is to put some chalk on that area tomorrow and then drive it over some bumps and see if it rubs it off.

Second picture you can see the small distance between the beam and the gas tank. When i had my tie bar installed there it was literally less than inch from beam which is why it kept clanking against it.

The second picture with the circle mark shows how close the beam is to the filler neck of the gas tank. I suppose if you had a bunch of heavy set people in the back seat and went over a really hard pothole there is a chance it could make contact. Also the fewer last pictures you can see how tightly wound the coil spring is. I am not sure if this is suppose to be normal. But the top portion of the springs are all touching. I am thinking the clunk is the spring completely compressing and making contact with the bottom but not 100 percent sure.

Still hoping loren will take a look at this pics and give us some insight.

Loren · 12-02-2009, 10:48 PM

Remove the springs. Then you can easily move the axle through its complete range of motion to check for interference with the fuel tank or anything else.

The pix are good, they tell us the area of concern... but they don't show any actual contact.

cali yaris · 12-02-2009, 11:02 PM

If there were contact, you'd see it - the paint would be worn/chipped/rubbed.

fmicle · 12-02-2009, 11:23 PM

I think it's normal for the coils to look the way they do, same thing with mine, even though different brand, the first 3 or so spirals touch each other...

12-02-2009, 02:48 AM	#4
fmicle Drives: 2007 Yaris LB Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: San Jose, CA, USA Posts: 685	I've been running with this mod for almost 2 weeks now and haven't had any issues so far. I've only had the baby in the back, no other loads or longer trips and the roads are decent where I drive, so no big bumps or anything. I haven't heard any bumping, other than just the springs a couple of times after I installed them, probably from just setting in... I am running on Progress springs though, with a medium drop of 1.4". I'll keep an eye on it though, but I've seen the alignment numbers on the rear axle with this mod and they look perfect, I would probably do my best to keep it that way. Oh and the handling (with the new Toyo T1R's that I got) is amazing __________________ 5% Tint Rear \| Micro Image LED Ignition Light Kit

12-02-2009, 10:48 PM	#16
Loren What? Drives: 2007 Yaris LB Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Safety Harbor, FL Posts: 1,006	Remove the springs. Then you can easily move the axle through its complete range of motion to check for interference with the fuel tank or anything else. The pix are good, they tell us the area of concern... but they don't show any actual contact. __________________ ----------------------- Loren@InvisibleSun.org -----------------------

12-02-2009, 11:02 PM	#17
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,859	If there were contact, you'd see it - the paint would be worn/chipped/rubbed. __________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

12-02-2009, 11:23 PM	#18
fmicle Drives: 2007 Yaris LB Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: San Jose, CA, USA Posts: 685	I think it's normal for the coils to look the way they do, same thing with mine, even though different brand, the first 3 or so spirals touch each other... __________________ 5% Tint Rear \| Micro Image LED Ignition Light Kit

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12-02-2009, 02:22 AM	#1
ddongbap Banned Drives: yw calls me douche and racist. Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: hay Posts: 2,183	I kinda get the feeling that people with regular drop springs aren't supposed to do this.

12-02-2009, 10:39 AM	#5
ddongbap Banned Drives: yw calls me douche and racist. Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: hay Posts: 2,183	I think the T1Rs are doing the grunt work of the handling. On a side note, I installed the 23mm rear sway bar. IDK what I'm supposed to be feeling though.

12-02-2009, 10:42 AM	#8
detroiter Drives: 2008 Polar White LB Auto Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Metro Detroit Posts: 1,238	I just got an alignment check and everything came back well within factory specs while using the higher bolt point. ill throw the numbers up soon...

12-02-2009, 12:48 PM	#9
ddongbap Banned Drives: yw calls me douche and racist. Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: hay Posts: 2,183	Cause Toyota sells TRD shocks and springs w/o saying anything about the second set of holes.

12-02-2009, 08:58 PM	#11
YarisSedan Drives: 08 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: California - Bay Area Posts: 2,773	Hmm i put my car on rack tonight and took a bunch of pictures. Ill post everything tonight if i have time when i get home. The rear springs look partially compressed. Half the coils are compressed and touching. You couldnt even fit ap iece of paper between half of them. I think this could be why the rear end feels lower and appears to be lower. It actually is. Also why the rear feels stiffer because this should increase the spring rate since its under a big preload now. . The rear beam is only maybe 2-3 inches away from the gas tank. I think the clunk is either the beam making contact with the filler neck or the top of the tank or the springs just bottoming out and hitting the bump stop. I think it could be a combination of any of them. So i think if you did this mod on factory springs you would have some gain. Would even out the rear end so it dosnt sit abnormally high and get all the benifit still without the issue some of us who lowered the car have. Ill post the pics tonight so you guys can see what i mean. Hopefully loren can take a look at them and give us his thoughts.

12-02-2009, 10:26 PM	#12
YarisSedan Drives: 08 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: California - Bay Area Posts: 2,773

05-21-2011, 03:10 AM	#14
Autocross72 Drives: 2009 3rd Polar white Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Seattle Posts: 31	For me the SCCA rules don't really matter since I have a Street Mod2 1972 240Z (thus the username/email). I'm just trying to make my daily driver fun to drive. I do agree that the springs seem to have an awful lot of side load, which doesn't seem good. I don't think raising the pivot point is the CAUSE of the axle hitting the gas tank. That would be due to ride height & supnsion travel. The axle would still hit the gas tank if the lower pivot is used if the ridevheight is too low, or the suspension compresses too much.

12-02-2009, 10:31 PM	#15
YarisSedan Drives: 08 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: California - Bay Area Posts: 2,773	So first picture the area i circled is the area i am concerned about. But now that i think about it when i removed the bar i had to struggled so its a possibility it may have caused some of the scratching on the gas tank. My plan is to put some chalk on that area tomorrow and then drive it over some bumps and see if it rubs it off. Second picture you can see the small distance between the beam and the gas tank. When i had my tie bar installed there it was literally less than inch from beam which is why it kept clanking against it. The second picture with the circle mark shows how close the beam is to the filler neck of the gas tank. I suppose if you had a bunch of heavy set people in the back seat and went over a really hard pothole there is a chance it could make contact. Also the fewer last pictures you can see how tightly wound the coil spring is. I am not sure if this is suppose to be normal. But the top portion of the springs are all touching. I am thinking the clunk is the spring completely compressing and making contact with the bottom but not 100 percent sure. Still hoping loren will take a look at this pics and give us some insight.