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02-24-2010, 12:03 AM | #19 |
Drives: 2010 NCP91 5spd Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Thailand
Posts: 449
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No reason to get touchy. . . I was just making a joke. . . this whole place is supposed to be fun and not an encyclopedia.
And for the record you are correct. I've owned a lot of MT cars, and I have yet to adjust the clutch on the yaris, so I haven't looked yet if it's hydraulic or cable actuated. But I'm pretty certain, now that you mention it, that it's hydraulic. And in that case, you can usually adjust it at the pushrod assembly thingy at the base of the pedal. I'm at work and can't go out and check right now. I dunno. . . trying to help out by proposing possibly solutions, but snapping back at people trying to help won't solve anything. I never called anybody names. |
02-24-2010, 12:07 AM | #20 |
Drives: 2010 NCP91 5spd Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Thailand
Posts: 449
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If it's hydraulic, bleeding the clutch may help too. Trapped air could be causing your inconsistencies. . .
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02-24-2010, 12:11 AM | #21 |
Drives: 2010 NCP91 5spd Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Thailand
Posts: 449
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And for the record. . . I've spent my last year in the USA rebuilding a motorcycle that had a cable actuated clutch (GSX600F Katana), so I'm used to referring to the clutch cable and subsequent adjustments.
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02-24-2010, 12:14 AM | #22 |
Drives: no-longer-boosted '10 Yaris Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Angus, Ontario
Posts: 1,891
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lol, hey man, dnw, that was my joke. and good call, i have looked everywhere for the adjustment but not on the base of the pedal.....
been thinking about bleeding it but i'd hate to fail, introduce air and need a tow to toyota to get it fixed. lol. its not a critical problem so i'd hate to make it a critical one. simple adjustments for this one or i'm gonna have to live with the issue (or give it to my mom and get my new clutch in about a week) lol but would air cause inconsistencies or jsut a constant softness or failure? i've worked with break systems and getting the air out but never clutch
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If it has boobs or wheels sooner or later your gonna have problems with it |
02-24-2010, 12:24 AM | #23 |
Drives: 2010 NCP91 5spd Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Thailand
Posts: 449
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Yeah. . . bleeding the clutch is a pain. And technically it's a closed system, so air shouldn't enter. . . but like brakes, sometimes it just happens though unlikely. Oh and now that I think about it, another cause of inconsistency is clutch glazing. It sounds like you know what you're doing, so it might not be the case. But often times when the clutch heats up, the engagement point will change; especially with aggressive driving. After the clutch cools down, the glaze will wear off bringing things back to normal.
Here is a good run through of a clutch system on an MR2. If I remember correctly, everything should be very similar, and it's a good guide to work off of. http://www.mr2-tech.com/bgb/mechanic...me2/clutch.htm |
02-24-2010, 12:51 AM | #24 |
Drives: no-longer-boosted '10 Yaris Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Angus, Ontario
Posts: 1,891
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lol, hey hey, dont be too nice now, i can take it ("sounds like you know what ure doing") lol, i can drive stick (i say i can atleast), i got use to the DBW and smooth shifts but i do drive it hard.... kinda. down shifting and high revving. i dont know what exactly would heat up a clutch to ubnormal conditions to create it to get the glaze.... now i need to take mental note of when its doing it..... i do believe more so on take off.... out of my garage isn't bad but the coffee shop down the road is always a job to take off.... from my house to there it might be 2km.
under normal driving conditions a clutch should stay fairly cool (unglazed) and not change place?
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If it has boobs or wheels sooner or later your gonna have problems with it |
02-24-2010, 12:58 AM | #25 | |
Drives: 2010 NCP91 5spd Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Thailand
Posts: 449
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Quote:
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02-24-2010, 01:05 AM | #26 |
Drives: no-longer-boosted '10 Yaris Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Angus, Ontario
Posts: 1,891
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oh, and since now (after my bad remark) u do seem to know quite abit about the clutch, lol, do u notice (or anyone else) a clunk noise? i dont think its related to the clunk noise in the drive system, but even with the shifter in no gear, start the car (i believe it also does it when its off) and depress the clutch. release it slowly and at some point it makes a rather loud clunk..... i have passed this off as being the clutch plates making contact. jsut wanted to know if anyone else has this issue?
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If it has boobs or wheels sooner or later your gonna have problems with it |
02-24-2010, 02:07 AM | #27 |
Drives: 2010 NCP91 5spd Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Thailand
Posts: 449
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Whoah, no clunk for me. . . just the infamous squeek that I've been too lazy to address. Good luck hunting it down. . . those are very tricky and could be anything.
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02-24-2010, 02:12 AM | #28 |
Drives: no-longer-boosted '10 Yaris Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Angus, Ontario
Posts: 1,891
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squeek? lol. and the clunk has to be the clutch plate itself or the clutch arm..... worse comes to worse i'll let toyota figure it out
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If it has boobs or wheels sooner or later your gonna have problems with it |
02-24-2010, 02:45 AM | #29 |
Drives: 2010 NCP91 5spd Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Thailand
Posts: 449
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You're probably right. . . I just had a bad experience hunting down a clunk that turned out to be a socket wrench some genius service tech dropped or left in the splash gaurd / plastic under tray of my brother's Lexus.
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02-24-2010, 03:01 AM | #30 |
Drives: no-longer-boosted '10 Yaris Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Angus, Ontario
Posts: 1,891
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lol, hey, i lost one of my sockets in that area when i was messing around one day. a 20 min time gap for me to screw around ended up taking me 2 hours and needed to remove my entire bumper....lol. (it could ahve taken me alot shorter time but i was trying to get it without removing bumper.....
restoring my friends car, when we took the dash out we found 3 different size sockets and a few hex screw wrenches from the guy(s) who worked on the car before. they were inside his vent systems. lol.
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If it has boobs or wheels sooner or later your gonna have problems with it |
02-24-2010, 01:12 PM | #31 |
I've made a post!
Drives: yaris 3dr Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: us
Posts: 1
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clunkity
I have the mystery clunk as well. It is intermittent, and I can't make it happen consistently, but every now and then i will hear a clear "clunk" when I let out the clutch. It seems to happen when I am going into 3rd gear after a deceleration (like if I have to slow down for a sharp curve). The car does not jump, so it is not that I am going too fast when entering the gear. Is this a sign of the clutch going bad/having problems? anyone else have this? Mine is an 09 LB with <10k miles. I just kind of assumed that sometimes you will hear a clunk when there are a lot of metal moving parts manufactured by the lowest bidder bolted together by a third party . I don't want to hijack the thread, but maybe this is relevant to your problems.
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03-07-2010, 07:27 PM | #32 |
MetalShark
Drives: 2008 Yaris LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 104
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grab point
On my Corolla the clutch had no free pedal at all after the clutch replacement. It didn't have enough when it was going out either. I disconnected the clevis from the pedal and shortened it by two full turns. It took a 13 mm wrench, a 14 mm wrench, and a pair of long nose pliers to do the job. The grab point is half way up now and it is much easier to drive. Hire a midget with short arms to do this if you can. Its so much better I'm going to make the same adjustment on my Yaris.
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Absolutely red, Drawtite hitch, CAI, Insulated Header, Amsoil 5w-30, Mag-drain plug, Red-Line MT-90 tranny oil, Scotch-Guard, Window Tint, Dash rug, Custom short throw shifter, Lowered OEM arm rest, Super-Turbo muffler/w chrome slash cut tip., TRD rear sway bar, sticky pads, front shock tower bar, RS grill badge, VVT-i emblems, Second tire set from Tirerack.com, DISABLED DAY TIME RUNNING LIGHTS, platform- style locking custom bike rack. 86K miles so far. 5 years use now on ceramic wrapped insulated stainless-steel header. |
03-07-2010, 08:46 PM | #33 | |
Learn to Relax
Drives: 2007, Meteorite, LB Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Anaheim, CA
Posts: 2,070
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Quote:
If you live in a hilly area and ride the clutch, you will wear out the clutch. Both practices are bad. |
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03-08-2010, 01:18 PM | #34 |
Small cars are a big deal
Drives: 2007 Yaris Liftback Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 3,144
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FYI, 24,000 miles on my 2007, and I had the chatter. Dealer replaced the clutch under warranty; I had the TRD unit put in.
However, now (1 month after install?) the transmission is leaking. Back to the dealership again ...
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Subcompact Culture: The Small car blog |
03-15-2010, 06:23 PM | #35 |
92k on my 2007 yaris and no clutch problems other than I hate this hydrolic assist clutch
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