2008 Yaris sedan ‘S’ sound deadening project.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by Herbicidal

Top mount depth is 3". This is measured from the bottom of the speaker magnet to the bottom of the mounting holes on the rim. The adapters are pretty slim, perhaps 1/4", maybe a little thicker.

It's hard to tell, but you'll find out once you fit the 6.5 speaker into the front doors and lower your windows.

D.

[Herbicidal]

Originally Posted by derickveliz2

It's hard to tell, but you'll find out once you fit the 6.5 speaker into the front doors and lower your windows.

D.

Ohhhh! These are for the rear deck, not the doors. I'm not to the doors yet.

[derickveliz2]

But on this picture you show to the right the 6.5 speakers and they go in the doors, is that right? if so you may need a spacer.

[Herbicidal]

My bad, I misunderstood which speakers you were referring to. The ones on the right in that picture are the Kickers. According to Sonic, the Top Mount Depth is: 1 15/16's inches. Just a click short of 2 inches deep. These are used in "shallow mount installations", according to Sonic. Maybe I'll be OK?

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by Herbicidal

The ones on the right in that picture are the Kickers. According to Sonic, the Top Mount Depth is: 1 15/16's inches. Just a click short of 2 inches deep. These are used in "shallow mount installations", according to Sonic. Maybe I'll be OK?

They may be OK, I had the window control handy and plug it into it's connector to move the window up and down when I had the door naked, to test fit the speakers. It's good also to double check if the speakers wires don't get stuck with the glass too. But you won't know until you get to the doors.

Keep it up!

Nice speakers by the way!


.

[Herbicidal]

Put some more time into the car tonight. Finished installing the rear speakers and actually put the entire trunk, rear deck and 'C' pillars back in, plus some plastic body panels that go over the rear wheel wells. The back seat is still out as I have some more deadening to do underneath and in front of the back seat. The rear speakers sound great! But I'm still toying with getting an amp before the backseat goes in. Before I get too much further I may buy some higher quality speaker wire and pre-run it before I cover everything up again. That will make it pretty much plug-and-play without having to remove a bunch of plastic panels again.

Deadened the license plate and inside the frame with scraps of RAAMmat and Ensolite. Don't throw your scraps away!


Put some extra Ensolite on the back of the plate where it may touch the car during EXTREME base.


Reassabled the trunk area after installing the rear speakers. The new ones sound great!

[Herbicidal]

I decided to get an amp, an amp wiring kit and a line output converter. Since I'm already 'into' the car, I might as well do it right!

Amp: Eclipse EA4200, free shipping, no sales tax (already shipped) for $129.99 from Crutchfield. Sonic Electronix wanted $209.99 and it's out of stock and backordered on their site.


Amp wiring kit: Earthquake Sound AK-3000, free shipping (already shipped), paid CA sales tax from Sonic for $29.99.


Line output converter: PAC SOEM-4, free shipping (already shipped), paid CA sales tax from Sonic. Listed at $32.99 but had a make offer button. I clicked it and submitted an offer of $25. It countered with $26 and I bought it! That savings more than covered my CA sales tax.

[derickveliz2]

Good progress makes me feel like I should make more time to work on mine!

I did find a grommet up high almost to the end of the firewall, very hard to access though, but keeps my power wires far right from all audio wires; Just in case,... don't let the RCA wires run near or parallel with the power wires for the amp, try to keep them as far as possible, if you have to... cross them in a 90 degree to prevent engine noise.



Very nice, looking good! I'm still so far away from turning it on for testing.. )o:

[Herbicidal]

Thanks for the tip! I put enough of the car back together last night so I could drive it to work today. The rear speakers are the only ones connected and they sound great! No engine noise transmitted via the wires. Now I need to add some more sound deadening to the rear wheel wells and under the rear seat before I put it back. Then I can shift my focus to the front doors, such as installing the new speakers, speaker wire (it's going to be fun getting it from the doors to inside the car), tweeters and deadening. Woohoo!

[Herbicidal]

I almost have the entire car back together again. I was at Lowes yesterday and picked up some scrap carpet padding that is 1/2" thick. I stuffed it into some open cavities in the 'C' pillars (already sound deadened on the actual metal surface) and put some more under the rear seat as I have a resonator for the exhaust almost exactly under the seat. Plus there is a ton of room under the seat so why not add more (cheap) sound deadening while I'm in there? Somehow I lost a single bolt for the rear seat so I was not able to complete getting it all back together. I'll stop by the dealership on the way home and get what I need. Then I'm on to the doors and installing the front speakers along with the sound deadening. I need my front speakers! I'm looking forward to this next "stage" of my project. Doors, Doors, Doors!

[derickveliz2]

I started with the rear doors, they are much easier than the front doors, I still have to do the pilot's door! and replace left speaker.

Sounds like you are almost there! awesome!

D.
.

[Herbicidal]

Originally Posted by derickveliz2

I started with the rear doors, they are much easier than the front doors, I still have to do the pilot's door! and replace left speaker.

Sounds like you are almost there! awesome!

D.
.

I think I'm going to start with the fronts as I really want to hear my new speakers! Since I'm doing only about 1/4 of the sound deadening you are doing, it figures I should be done much sooner! After the doors, and if I have leftover Ensolite, then I'm going to add it to the trunk area, right now it's just covered in RAAMmat.

[derickveliz2]

I'm curious to see how your speakers go with the speaker adapters you got, since I'm going to use the 6.5 that goes in the door as a mid-bass I'm going back in there to beef things up and may replace the OEM adapter for one like yours and probably have to use a spacer.

good job!

[Herbicidal]

Thanks! I'll post up some pics and comments when I get there.

[Herbicidal]

I have completed what I'm calling stage 1. The car is completely back together but only with sound to the rear speakers. I have deadened everything from the front of the base of the rear seat to the trunk and everything in-between. The noise reduction based upon the sound level of my exhaust is quite dramatic! I still hear the exhaust, but it is a pleasant, underlying, background sort of sound. Having conversations in the car is much easier, I'm hearing instruments in the music that I have not heard before. Probably due to both the upgrade in speakers and the sound deadening. Now I can hear outside noise coming through the doors and little shifting sounds up on the headliner and I think from the back left and right corners of the car. The exhaust now exits in the center so I think that's why I can kind of hear it from both sides. At the moment, I did not put down any Ensolite in the trunk, it's just RAAMmat. If I have any Ensolite leftover once I'm done with the doors, I'm going to do the trunk.

I'm VERY happy with the results so far and I look forward to doing the doors. I should be able to start on them this weekend!

Oh yeah, after ordering a new bolt for the rear seat (yes, had to order it) I found the missing one stuck to a piece of RAAMmat in the car! Sheesh! That's the way it goes sometimes.

On to stage 2 - doors and front speakers!!!

[Herbicidal]

This past weekend I was finally able to tackle the drivers side door. Woohoo! This door is now 'dead'! Not a rattle, squeak or noise out of it when it's shut. Just a nice solid - thud. My Father-in-laws Lexus has nothing on my door! With all the sound deadening, I've basically made the door a speaker box. I'm quite anxious to hear how it will sound. I made sure not to block the drain holes at the very bottom, in-side edge of the door. Also, the door panel had some hard foam door stiffeners that I was able to trim very easily by taking a hack saw blade out of the hack saw and cut through them by holding the blade in my hand. In the end, I had to totally remove the largest foam piece as it used to fit through an opening in the door, but I blocked the opening with sound deadening material.

Here's a photo montage of what I did for just the one door. Now to repeat on the passenger side and then the rear doors. It is alot of effort, but I'm already "hearing" the difference. The car is noticeably more 'solid' and quiet.

Door panel off. My work is cut out for me.


Drilling out the rivets that held in the factory door speaker.


Old speaker removed. You can just see the rubber boot where the wiring harness goes through the door.


The dreaded rubber boot that I needed to get the new speaker wire through.


Coat hanger with speaker wire taped to it. My first effort failed. I redid the taping job and put some Vasoline on the wire and that time it worked!


New speaker wire routed through the rubber door boot. Yeah, that was fun!


Close up of RAAMmat inside the door shell. With the large openings, I was able to deaden 95% of the inside of the door.


RAAMmat fully applied within the door shell.


Plastic panels secured with small sheet metal screws to cover the access holes.


Close up of the speaker opening with the RAAMmat applied inside. That's the bottom edge of the window. Just testing to make sure everything worked correctly after applying the deadening material.


Speaker opening with RAAMmat behind the Ensolite. A small square of it sits behind the speaker, per the instructions on RAAMaudio.com


RAAMmat applied on all available surfaces. Crossover for the Kicker speaker and tweeter is in the lower left with the cover off. The new speaker is mounted in the door using speaker adapters. Perfect fit!


This is one dead door! The final layer is sound deadening Ensolite foam. I made sure to stay back about 1" from all the edges so that the door panel would fit back on correctly.


Kicker tweeter (back view) installed in small plastic window panel. Had to use a 2" hole saw to cut the hole in the panel.


Kicker tweeter (front view) installed in small plastic window panel.


Door panel back on and the Kicker tweeter mounted in mirror cover panel. There is a beveled housing that allows the tweeter to be mounted at an angle. I may need to adjust the angle again when dialing everything in.


On to the passenger door! Once that's done, I can connect up my front speakers and finally have all the speakers working again.

[DailyDriver]

Looks awesome! I can't wait to deaden my doors! Thanks for the pics.

[Herbicidal]

Thanks DailyDriver and you're welcome! It is nice to see what needs to be done ahead of time. Derick's photos in his sound deadening thread helped me quite a bit too.

Well I couldn't wait any longer! I HAD to hook up the front speakers to hear how they sound even though the front passenger door isn't deadened yet. After about 2 hours worth of work, I had the new speaker/tweeter/crossover (the crossover location is temporary, but works for now) installed and hooked up to the amp. WOW!!! I LOVE it! The highs are so crisp it feels like you could cut paper! However, that front passenger door is begging for mercy! There are some rattles (of course) and noises that will be killed once I deaden that door. The drivers door is very tight and the mid's just punch through! This clearly demonstrated the value of sound deadening. With a 3-day weekend coming up, I should be able knock off that passenger door and maybe even the rear doors!

On another note (no pun intended) this morning on the drive into work I had a guy in a Toyota T-100 catch up to me on the inside lane and as he pulled slightly ahead I could see a thumbs up coming from him. Did he hear my music too? Nah....but it made me .