Warning - Broken control arm bolt!

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by jack black

Thanks for this useful thread. What no one mentioned in this thread, the bolts are very easy to remove for inspection if one has semi-decent tools. I did it in my driveway without lifting the car and I used a cheap breaker bar like this, without any struggle:


My kid's Yaris was made in 2006, but spent all its life in deep south and mostly in south Florida. I didn't expect the bolts to be in bad condition, but there was some rust in the neck of the head, just next to the washer. Either water pooling there and/or galvanic corrosion due to different metal in the washer? Even though it rained a lot a week ago and before, the bolts were dry.

I packed the bolt area under the washer in grease and screwed it back. The 118 lbs/ft torque made me sweat a bit.

IMHO, since this is a simple job, everyone should at least remove the bolts for inspection/lubrication and/or replace if needed.

Yaris experts, anything else that needs to be torqued down there?

It is a very easy job provided they aren't rusted enough to snap. At that point in goes from a simple job with a breaker bar to an absolute nightmare. The problem is that you can't necessarily tell which way it is going to go until you give it a shot, so it is a bit of Russian roulette if you live North of the Mason-Dixon line.

[jack black]

Originally Posted by CTScott

It is a very easy job provided they aren't rusted enough to snap. At that point in goes from a simple job with a breaker bar to an absolute nightmare. The problem is that you can't necessarily tell which way it is going to go until you give it a shot, so it is a bit of Russian roulette if you live North of the Mason-Dixon line.

Yes, I didn't mean to minimize the issue when the bolts break. This is why I'm trying to say one should not wait, but check the bolts as soon as possible before they break.

[tmontague]

I'll be replacing the bolts on my 08 Yaris this weekend as the dealership I ordered then from won't get them in until Tuesday. I live in Southern Ontario so I'm not expecting then to look great. I have an impact driver would anyone recommend using that to remove the bolts? Or am I better to stick with a cheater bar since to avoid snapping the head off?


Scott did you have to jack anything up to keep it from falling down when you removed the sub frame? I'm asking incase my bolts snap I want to be able to take it to my mechanic and have him weld on a but and remove the bolts without having to spend a ton of time and therefore cost me a ton if money. The more I can do myself the better and I don't have welding equipment.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by tmontague

I'll be replacing the bolts on my 08 Yaris this weekend as the dealership I ordered then from won't get them in until Tuesday. I live in Southern Ontario so I'm not expecting then to look great. I have an impact driver would anyone recommend using that to remove the bolts? Or am I better to stick with a cheater bar since to avoid snapping the head off?


Scott did you have to jack anything up to keep it from falling down when you removed the sub frame? I'm asking incase my bolts snap I want to be able to take it to my mechanic and have him weld on a but and remove the bolts without having to spend a ton of time and therefore cost me a ton if money. The more I can do myself the better and I don't have welding equipment.

I would use a long handled ratchet or breaker bar, rather than an impact gun. If the bolts are in bad shape the impact gun will snap them like toothpicks.

You don't have to support anything while removing them and can carefully drive to the dealership if one snaps on you.

[tmontague]

Thanks, I'll post how it went after the weekend. If they did snap I wouldn't be able to remove the sub frame and drive to my mechanic and get him to weld a nut to the broken bolt would I? I'm assuming I'd have to pay him to remove the subframe to get access to the bolt?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by tmontague

Thanks, I'll post how it went after the weekend. If they did snap I wouldn't be able to remove the sub frame and drive to my mechanic and get him to weld a nut to the broken bolt would I? I'm assuming I'd have to pay him to remove the subframe to get access to the bolt?

You can't drive with the subframe removed, but you can drive with the broken bolt(s). There are quite a few more bolts that hold the subframe to the chassis. You don't actually have to completely remove the subframe to get at the broken bolt; you just need to lower it a few inches. To completely remove it you have to disconnect the steering column from the steering rack.

[tmontague]

thanks for the clarification. I'll cross my fingers and hope there is still some strength left in the bolt head.

[Mongoose7]

Did my bolts about a week ago. I was very lucky... it's an '07 hatchback that spent all it's life in NY state.... lots of salt, and both of them came out w/o breaking!!!!!

[tmontague]

I just did my bolts earlier today. My passenger side was in better shape and looked like Mongooses in the above image. My driver side bolt was very rusted and one more winter and it would have likely snapped. I am lucky to get them out in one piece, and about double the amount of crap came out from each screw hole then in the image above.

I coated the new bolts in a boat load of grease and installed. I will now be checking them after every winter (Southern Ontario - massive amounts of salt applied to roads) and re coating them in grease. It will be interesting to see how they hold up with the grease.

On a side note I also checked my valve clearance today. Not due to any excessive noise but more because my Yaris has 118,000 km on it and I wanted to inspect sludge build up and learn more about working on my car.

All the valves were right in the middle of their clearance ranges and my engine was spotless, absolutely no build up at all. FWIW I change my oil every 8,000km usually put in Canadian Tire Formula1 synthetic (always use synthetic since I got the car at 87,000km) and a general oil filter. I cleaned out the PCV valve as well with throttle body cleaner although it was rattling fine.

One thing I noticed was my number 1 spark plug hole looked like some oil or something had burned inside. The spark plug connector was dirty, the hole had a little dark burned dry oil on it and my spark plug had oil not on the igniter or threads but on the ceramic white part where the metal ring is. I changed the plugs when I got the car and I have never spilled oil on the engine and the other plug holes were all completely dry and clean. any ideas to what could have caused this? I checked my valve cover gasket it still very pliable and in good shape. I changed the spark plug just in case as I haven't noticed any performance or firing issues.

thanks in advance

[CB900F2]

Wondering anyone else had the TSB performed on their yaris and removed to inspect the bolts? And if so, how was the condition... I am planning to inspect mine. Hoping the tsb helped in keeping the corrosive salt away from the bolts on mine ...

[kaz777]

cb900: what is tsb, I thought it was a notice that this was a problem, how would it protect the corrosion from happening? If there is something they can do to protect the bolts from corrosion I want it done!?

[yarisugi]

Technical Service Bulletin.

[kaz777]

duplicate reply sorry

[kaz777]

Originally Posted by yarisugi

Technical Service Bulletin.

thanks. I dont diy tho' so its up to toyota to cover what they will but its helpful to read those.

[kaz777]

I accid had a duplicate reply, delayed posts. Sorry. BTW they fixed my car bolts both, even tho one was sheared off, they also fixed the seat adjust thing on drivers side that is a recall or enhancement w/o me even telling them too. I got a loaner car on them (brand new corolla) I was very impressed w/ their service had worse experiences at past dealers of other makes.
The seat works harder now but if its safer ok.

[CueBall]

I stumbled across this thread and now I'm thinking I better do this! I got the letter about a year ago and forgot all about it.
I think I'll try to get them out myself. I'm wondering why no one has thought to try and find better bolts.. something that has more resistance to corrosion.. like stainless steel maybe? What do you all think? Does stainless torque well? Will it hold the 118 ft/lbs?
Any input is appreciated.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by CueBall

I stumbled across this thread and now I'm thinking I better do this! I got the letter about a year ago and forgot all about it.
I think I'll try to get them out myself. I'm wondering why no one has thought to try and find better bolts.. something that has more resistance to corrosion.. like stainless steel maybe? What do you all think? Does stainless torque well? Will it hold the 118 ft/lbs?
Any input is appreciated.

Stainless is too brittle for this application.

[dkwilfert]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Stainless is too brittle for this application.

Just curious, what was the source of the information that stainless is too brittle for this application? That seems to imply quite a bit of motion/flex at this joint.