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Old 10-11-2010, 01:41 AM   #1
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so much for a sleeper...
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Old 10-11-2010, 02:27 AM   #2
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so much for a sleeper...
When I am done, mine is DEF gonna be a sleeper.

I don't even have a body kit on mine (maybe next summer) or aftermarket wheels - rolling on steelies!

lol

Sleeper = me
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Old 10-11-2010, 11:27 AM   #3
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Glad to see you got that worked out, I really didn't know what to tell you. So, you've decided to keep the car constantly in open loop? I dunno if you've checked my thread, but closed loop is definitely an issue... I was also wondering, since you pulled O2 sensor 2 when you had your exhaust done... Wasn't your car constantly in open loop anyway?
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Old 10-11-2010, 08:47 PM   #4
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[QUOTE=Focus_Sh1ft;521878]Glad to see you got that worked out, I really didn't know what to tell you. So, you've decided to keep the car constantly in open loop? I dunno if you've checked my thread, but closed loop is definitely an issue... I was also wondering, since you pulled O2 sensor 2 when you had your exhaust done... Wasn't your car constantly in open loop anyway?[/QUOTE

Removing the after cat. O2 wont put you in open loop. But dissconnecting the manafold O2 will. I was still idling lean and had a rough idle after dissconnecting the O2. I added 20% fuel during idle and whenever runing out of boost. Its runing so much smoother now and I feel safer. The correct way would be to modify the O2 with the FIC. This would keep the CEL off. But I have no converter anyway, so it would still be on. Im sure mileage will suffer, but i would rather keep rings and pistons cooler with a richer mixture.
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Old 10-11-2010, 09:53 PM   #5
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[QUOTE=pimp my yaris;522037]
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Glad to see you got that worked out, I really didn't know what to tell you. So, you've decided to keep the car constantly in open loop? I dunno if you've checked my thread, but closed loop is definitely an issue... I was also wondering, since you pulled O2 sensor 2 when you had your exhaust done... Wasn't your car constantly in open loop anyway?[/QUOTE

Removing the after cat. O2 wont put you in open loop. But dissconnecting the manafold O2 will. I was still idling lean and had a rough idle after dissconnecting the O2. I added 20% fuel during idle and whenever runing out of boost. Its runing so much smoother now and I feel safer. The correct way would be to modify the O2 with the FIC. This would keep the CEL off. But I have no converter anyway, so it would still be on. Im sure mileage will suffer, but i would rather keep rings and pistons cooler with a richer mixture.
Patience.

CTScott is gonna look at it in a few weeks. I bet anything he comes up with some type of workaround

AND a good idea is to start a donation fund for him. The dude has helped nearly everyone on this site lol.

I would def donate to thus project, IF CT wants to set it up.
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Old 10-11-2010, 01:48 AM   #6
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So I guess no one had any tips or sugestions,
never saw the thread, but glad you got it worked out
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Old 10-11-2010, 01:54 AM   #7
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I hope the better pump works for ya.

How much boost are you aiming for?
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Old 10-11-2010, 11:33 AM   #8
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^^

Yes, that is how one of garms buddies runs open loop constantly. But it come with the price of a constant CE light.
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Old 10-11-2010, 08:55 PM   #9
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I also had a problem with dying out at idle with a hot engine or when idling for a long time. Its all been taken care of now.
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Old 10-12-2010, 08:48 PM   #10
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Found a good thread on a scion forum with pics of a step by step engine teardown for piston and rod replacement http://www.scikotics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46597

Just wanted to share
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Old 10-12-2010, 10:06 PM   #11
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There is already such a device, it is a narrowband simulator. You obviously need to have a wideband of your own to tune. But once you have the fuel tuned and the wideband still sees 11.* the narrowband simulator will tell the ECU that it is at 14.7 therefore not have the ECU going crazy.

Most in car widebands/managements have the ability to do such a thing. Check it out on most of the spec pages. I beleive both the FI/C the Uego and the emanage can do this, just alot of people never take advantage of it.

That and a MAF clamp, you should be running CEL free.
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Old 10-23-2010, 09:44 AM   #12
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I took some pics for the micro image calendar. I call this one, In Your Face! I wonder who's phone number is on my license plate?
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Old 11-02-2010, 06:36 PM   #13
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I recently have noticed a small problem with my cheap turbo. When the car sits overnight and U first start it up in the morning. If I just let it idle and warm up for a while I will get some white smoke coming from my exhaust when the engine starts to warm up. If I rev it up I get a little cloud of smoke. Once I start driving the smoke is gone and no more problem. I have removed my downpipe and have noticed some oil leaking from the turbo into the exhaust when the car sits and gets cold. I have also checked my oil level regularly and never noticed any oil burning issue. Even making 800mile trip there was no oil loss.
So I think its only a drop or two that leaks into the exhaust every night. It just really pisses me off though. I have done everything to prevent this. My coolant lines are connected and I have a turbo timer.
I guess thats what U get for buying the cheap Chinese turbo. I hope it holds up through winter and mabe I will get a Garret next summer. Its 950$ compared to the 240$ I spent for my turbo.
I wonder if I had a converter, mabe that would eliminate the smoke?
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Old 11-02-2010, 08:04 PM   #14
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I recently have noticed a small problem with my cheap turbo. When the car sits overnight and U first start it up in the morning. If I just let it idle and warm up for a while I will get some white smoke coming from my exhaust when the engine starts to warm up. If I rev it up I get a little cloud of smoke. Once I start driving the smoke is gone and no more problem. I have removed my downpipe and have noticed some oil leaking from the turbo into the exhaust when the car sits and gets cold. I have also checked my oil level regularly and never noticed any oil burning issue. Even making 800mile trip there was no oil loss.
So I think its only a drop or two that leaks into the exhaust every night. It just really pisses me off though. I have done everything to prevent this. My coolant lines are connected and I have a turbo timer.
I guess thats what U get for buying the cheap Chinese turbo. I hope it holds up through winter and mabe I will get a Garret next summer. Its 950$ compared to the 240$ I spent for my turbo.
I wonder if I had a converter, mabe that would eliminate the smoke?
Yeah, doesn't seem like it's THAT big of a deal. I'm still dripping oil a bit, but it's like your case where the amount is so insignificant that its not even effecting oil level.

And let's be real here, your install went wayyyy too good regarding leaks until now lol.
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Old 11-04-2010, 03:07 PM   #15
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I want to build a costom turbo setup using mostly E-bay parts. I am thinking t25/28 turbo. I have found exhaust manafold/turbo, intercooler and piping,oil and water lines if needed. Also a air intake and filter to mount the mass air sensor. I am sure I will need to buy at least 1 more intercooler piping kit and a blow off valve. And I found a downpipe witch will need to be costomized from a nissan silvia. Or I will need a complete costom downpipe.

My questions are what piggy back system should I use to control injector pulse? Will I need bigger injectors right away? I am only looking for 150-170whp. Also should oil source for turbo be tapped from oil pressure sensor or do I need to buy adapter to tap near the filter? I am also sure a new clutch will be in my future shortly after install. I am thinking center force dual friction.
Also can I tune a piggy back system with a lap top and a wide band o2s or do you need some specialized training to complete this. I am a ase master tech for about 12 years, but I have never done tuning. Its just so dame expensive around Chicago. Very few places to go.
that turbo kit is ebay so i would suggest spend more cause that turbo kit is but like i said is up to you. FYI for a good turbo kit and to save you the time and money get a real kit which are around 3k :D
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Old 11-04-2010, 03:10 PM   #16
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that turbo kit is ebay so i would suggest spend more cause that turbo kit is but like i said is up to you. FYI for a good turbo kit and to save you the time and money get a real kit which are around 3k :D
HAHA, wow, he's already built the turbo and is in the tuning process now.
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Old 11-05-2010, 04:59 AM   #17
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HAHA, wow, he's already built the turbo and is in the tuning process now.
Ya I guess he missed the previous 17 pages.
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Old 11-12-2010, 04:19 AM   #18
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HAHA, wow, he's already built the turbo and is in the tuning process now.
yea very late didn't know it went on this long
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