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Old 09-07-2012, 11:07 AM   #1
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pimp, what gap are you using, and which plugs?
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Old 09-09-2012, 10:09 AM   #2
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I am running NGK BKR7E plugs gapped at .020"
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Old 09-09-2012, 10:25 PM   #3
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Have you tried a bigger gap? .020" is getting pretty small compared to the stock at what, 32 thou? It's possible the spark isn't big enough to ignite the mixture properly
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Old 09-09-2012, 11:55 PM   #4
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So Brian raises a good question at least from a curiosity standpoint...how many PSI of boost is the AEM FIC supposedly good for?
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Old 09-09-2012, 11:58 PM   #5
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So Brian raises a good question at least from a curiosity standpoint...how many PSI of boost is the AEM FIC supposedly good for?
The on-board map sensor is good for ~22psi.
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:31 AM   #6
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The on-board map sensor is good for ~22psi.
MAP or MAF?
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Old 09-11-2012, 02:48 PM   #7
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The on-board map sensor is good for ~22psi.
Running MAP in the southeast, south, and southwest is much easier with it since its based off of a fuel curve that is programed into the ECU or Piggyback and it does not change. So basically, your fuel map never changes no matter what the air conditions are outside (dense, thin, wet, dry, etc). I don't know enough about MAP setups yet to do much more than sound dangerous, but going off what i have learned so far using your car for a racing application would easily justify going MAP since the car many times isn't a DD for most folks, but in this case it is his DD. He would need a 2 BAR Stainless Steel Sensor Kit which are over 100 bucks and then he would need to modify his piping or even replace a section so it is another investment for sure. IMHO if you are going to make the change and investment to go MAP then you are better off ditching the FIC to go full standalone since you are looking to optimize for higher boost and the FIC just doesn't protect your investment. It seems the FIC is for folks wanting to use low boost which traditionally won't put your engine in much for danger of blowing up compared to medium/high boost. 8-10psi is fun as it is on the roads so I would think that 15-18psi is more giggles for sure when at the wheel so being patient at that point rather than risk further time/money makes more sense. I am not sure what most would consider FI changing from a hobby build to serious is since it is subjective based upon the driver and the vehicle, but to me going over 15psi is getting serious.
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Old 09-11-2012, 11:55 PM   #8
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Running MAP in the southeast, south, and southwest is much easier with it since its based off of a fuel curve that is programed into the ECU or Piggyback and it does not change. So basically, your fuel map never changes no matter what the air conditions are outside (dense, thin, wet, dry, etc). I don't know enough about MAP setups yet to do much more than sound dangerous, but going off what i have learned so far using your car for a racing application would easily justify going MAP since the car many times isn't a DD for most folks, but in this case it is his DD. He would need a 2 BAR Stainless Steel Sensor Kit which are over 100 bucks and then he would need to modify his piping or even replace a section so it is another investment for sure. IMHO if you are going to make the change and investment to go MAP then you are better off ditching the FIC to go full standalone since you are looking to optimize for higher boost and the FIC just doesn't protect your investment. It seems the FIC is for folks wanting to use low boost which traditionally won't put your engine in much for danger of blowing up compared to medium/high boost. 8-10psi is fun as it is on the roads so I would think that 15-18psi is more giggles for sure when at the wheel so being patient at that point rather than risk further time/money makes more sense. I am not sure what most would consider FI changing from a hobby build to serious is since it is subjective based upon the driver and the vehicle, but to me going over 15psi is getting serious.
I know all about the temp difference and if you really have extreme varying weather then sure the sensor is nice to have. But you are implying that some change or investment is needed to use the MAP sensor. I am saying there is no investment needed it comes with the unit. The MAF sensor cant handle the boost that high. Many have tuned up to 20 psi for years with no problem. They have their winter tune and a summer tune. Switch between the two and you are set. Still a standalone unit is much better all round but for what he is using it for, FIC all the way.
Maybe i am misunderstanding something.
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Old 09-10-2012, 01:46 AM   #9
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The AEM has a built in MAP sensor
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Old 09-10-2012, 07:11 PM   #10
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Pimp...I thought you were standalone man its crazy a fic at that boost haha looks like it works pretty great for just a piggyback...

you make me double think about going standalone...
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Old 09-10-2012, 09:20 PM   #11
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Pimp...I thought you were standalone man its crazy a fic at that boost haha looks like it works pretty great for just a piggyback...

you make me double think about going standalone...
Do not double think go standalone.
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Old 09-10-2012, 10:33 PM   #12
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Do not double think go standalone.
are you standalone ?
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Old 09-11-2012, 11:04 AM   #13
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are you standalone ?
Nope not yet but once I have the funds most deff
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Old 09-11-2012, 11:06 AM   #14
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I looked at the pt mani and just didn't like having my turbo exposed to the open environment. It rains a lot here in Florida. I know Garm has manifolds too did u check with him? What turbo are you runnin now?
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Old 09-14-2012, 10:30 PM   #15
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I looked at the pt mani and just didn't like having my turbo exposed to the open environment. It rains a lot here in Florida. I know Garm has manifolds too did u check with him? What turbo are you runnin now?
Actually it doesn't have to be exposed, I chose to remove the cowl for ventilation. I put it back on in the fall to keep leaves out. On customers builds I leave it on, some trimming needed.

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Old 09-11-2012, 06:36 PM   #16
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Not sure I understand what this is in reference to. He doesn't need a kit of any kind if he stays below~22psi. The FIC can handle that level just fine.
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Old 09-11-2012, 10:03 PM   #17
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Not sure I understand what this is in reference to. He doesn't need a kit of any kind if he stays below~22psi. The FIC can handle that level just fine.
Right, but you would be crazy to not have the Inlet Temp Sensor along with it. Sure, it has MAP built right in, but that is a static setting. You configure MAP instead of MAF, but MAP has no way to adjust for air density changes, in-climate weather, etc. The only way for the ability to have "on the fly" adjustment is with the Inlet Sensor being place too. Someone would be forever fiddling with the configurations throughout the year in northern states or Canada because of this. How is the FIC going to know inlet density/temps/humidity without an inlet sensor?
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Old 09-15-2012, 01:46 PM   #18
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That's awesome to know! Do you get to keep your AC lines and would it fit in the Yaris bay. Really like your mani design.
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