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Old 05-28-2019, 07:14 PM   #217
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Fyi I checked my heater hoses after picking the kids up from daycare andncollant was up to full temp (185F)

Both were hot to the touch and felt roughly the same temp, i couldnt determine if there was any temp difference.
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Old 05-29-2019, 12:59 PM   #218
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Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
Thanks ern-diz! I think, from a technical standpoint, the most challenging part remains - hooking up the F/IC. To be honest, I've done my best to figure out the wiring, but I'm not fully confident in my ability to have done that correctly. Let's just say I had to make some guesses based upon info from a variety of sources. No one has, as of yet, confirmed decisively that my wiring is correct. The guys at AEM said my diagrams look right, but they couldn't be sure as they were unfamiliar with the car's ECU. I may pester them again for more definite answers, but since the F/IC has been discontinued - and therefore support for the product - I may be lucky to get much of anything.
Fingers crossed!
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Old 05-31-2019, 07:40 AM   #219
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May I ask, what is the purpose of having both an oil catch can and a breather filter? Don't they both have similar function, taking positive air pressure within the engine and letting it out?
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Old 05-31-2019, 09:35 AM   #220
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Fyi I checked my heater hoses after picking the kids up from daycare andncollant was up to full temp (185F)

Both were hot to the touch and felt roughly the same temp, i couldnt determine if there was any temp difference.
Thanks! Mine seem to be coming up to temperature now. I'm going to assume that my system wasn't completely bled.
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Old 05-31-2019, 09:40 AM   #221
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May I ask, what is the purpose of having both an oil catch can and a breather filter? Don't they both have similar function, taking positive air pressure within the engine and letting it out?
The open-to-atmosphere breather is there to let blow by gasses out of the crankcase when the PCV valve is closed under boost. It would also draw fresh air into the crankcase when under vacuum. At least this is my understanding of how it should work. All that said, I'm having fuel trim issues and not sure if the two are related. I'll monitor trims after I have the F/IC hooked up and the car running- hopefully. LOL.
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Old 05-31-2019, 01:57 PM   #222
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The open-to-atmosphere breather is there to let blow by gasses out of the crankcase when the PCV valve is closed under boost. It would also draw fresh air into the crankcase when under vacuum. At least this is my understanding of how it should work. All that said, I'm having fuel trim issues and not sure if the two are related. I'll monitor trims after I have the F/IC hooked up and the car running- hopefully. LOL.
your breather shouldn't be the cause of any vacuum issues as it is not connected to the intake in any way. How you currently have it set up is smart as the PCV is normally closed under boost pressure and any blow by will not be able to vent - therein lies the solution of the valve cover breather.

The only way I could see this being a potential issue is during idle when the PCV in barely open and pulling mild vacuum on the crankcase. The breather technically allows fresh air to enter the valve cover and potentially out the PCV and into your intake. Since the PCV venting enters downstream of the MAF (IIRC) then it is unmetered air.

Easiest way to figure this out would be to block of your valve cover breather and see if the fuel trims correct themselves. If they do than a check valve on that breather tube to stop air from going back into the valve cover should solve that issue
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Old 05-31-2019, 05:04 PM   #223
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your breather shouldn't be the cause of any vacuum issues as it is not connected to the intake in any way. How you currently have it set up is smart as the PCV is normally closed under boost pressure and any blow by will not be able to vent - therein lies the solution of the valve cover breather.

The only way I could see this being a potential issue is during idle when the PCV in barely open and pulling mild vacuum on the crankcase. The breather technically allows fresh air to enter the valve cover and potentially out the PCV and into your intake. Since the PCV venting enters downstream of the MAF (IIRC) then it is unmetered air.

Easiest way to figure this out would be to block of your valve cover breather and see if the fuel trims correct themselves. If they do than a check valve on that breather tube to stop air from going back into the valve cover should solve that issue
You, sir, are a wonder! I was thinking about doing precisely what you mentioned with regard to blocking the breather hose and checking fuel trims. I hadn't thought about the check valve but may have eventually come to the conclusion to try the valve. So, you wouldn't anticipate any issues with, say, an extended period of idling and no way for fresh air to get back into the crankcase as it would stopped by the check valve. I guess I'm not sure I fully understand this system as the original valve cover vent was connected to the intake pipe before the MAF sensor, which, I assume, would also have vacuum on it. How would fresh air ever enter the engine if both the valve cover vent and PCV are under vacuum? Help me understand. LOL!

I am going to check my vacuum again this evening, but even with the open valve cover breather, I think I was getting around 25"/hg at idle. I'll monitor vacuum with the valve cover breather blocked off and not blocked off. BTW, I did test my oil catch can and it's sealed. When I started opening the ball valve, I could hear strong suction and the engine started to stumble. Close the check valve and idle went back to being smooth.
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Old 06-01-2019, 01:07 AM   #224
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You, sir, are a wonder! I was thinking about doing precisely what you mentioned with regard to blocking the breather hose and checking fuel trims. I hadn't thought about the check valve but may have eventually come to the conclusion to try the valve. So, you wouldn't anticipate any issues with, say, an extended period of idling and no way for fresh air to get back into the crankcase as it would stopped by the check valve. I guess I'm not sure I fully understand this system as the original valve cover vent was connected to the intake pipe before the MAF sensor, which, I assume, would also have vacuum on it. How would fresh air ever enter the engine if both the valve cover vent and PCV are under vacuum? Help me understand. LOL!

I am going to check my vacuum again this evening, but even with the open valve cover breather, I think I was getting around 25"/hg at idle. I'll monitor vacuum with the valve cover breather blocked off and not blocked off. BTW, I did test my oil catch can and it's sealed. When I started opening the ball valve, I could hear strong suction and the engine started to stumble. Close the check valve and idle went back to being smooth.
25mm/Hg in a good vacuum value during idle- I think I used to see 25-27 give or take on both my 1nz and 2zr back when I had a vacuum gauge set up. Have you checked what happens to your FT's when you hold 3k rpm?

I just checked my engine bay and what I thought earlier was correct: there is no vacuum hose that connects upstream (before) the MAF sensor and the only hose that connects before the TB is the valve cover vent. Because this hose is located prior to the TB, there is never really any vacuum on it. It would only really be able to "suck" air in during moderate to heavy throttle and even then, vacuum is very little at that point so it is more of a passive vent that happens to vent into the intake as opposed to an actual vacuum pulling air out of the valve cover.

Vacuum can only be had post TB as the TB restriction is what creates the vacuum with the help of the engine sucking air in. Think of a vacuum cleaner with a 5' diameter hose. You wouldn't ever really create a vacuum to suck dirt up. But with a 5" diameter hose or even less, you can suck dirt up.

I'm not sure why you think the crankcase needs to have fresh air go into it, it never really ever does. The crankcase never needs fresh air, it simply needs to vent excess pressure above ambient when blow by happens (it always happens, just at varying degrees). WOT and turbo motors create more blow by hence why people recommend turbo builds to have catch cans and/or breather set ups.

The 1nz and 1zz is much different than the 2zr in the way the PCV is set up. In the former engines, the PCV is located on the valve cover and it is the sole vent port for the crankcase (crankcase gases travel up into the head). This makes it easy to attach a catch can.

On the 2zr, the PCV is actually located under the intake manifold as you know, but it is attached to the engine block and separate from the head. Therefore there is also a breather tube on the head that runs into the intake before the TB - this is where you current breather it hooked up to. I am assuming Toyota did this as the head needs to be vented just in case of a situation where pressure builds up there (the highest location of the engine) since the PCV is much lower on the block.

Your PCV is taken care of with your catch can and your head is vented via your breather set up. None of this should cause a problem theoretically as the head should never have a vacuum in any situation and pull air in from your breather. That said, definitely clamp off the breather and see what happens to your FT's. Once that is done, rev your engine to 3k rpm and see what happens to your FT's.

Your engine doesn't need air going into it as it will never be in vacuum, the only thing it needs to do is be able to expel excess pressure from blow by out so as to not blow any seals. Years ago this was just vented to atmosphere as you have done with the breather. Ever since tightening emissions standards the PCV system has come to be the norm.

The PCV valve itself is virtually closed during idle and in any excess pressure situation (boost). It is fully open during WOT where there is little to no vacuum seen on it. In a boosted cars case, any time you are WOT you are usually in boost and therefore not venting the PCV. This is why a breather hose is typically a good idea.
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Old 06-01-2019, 01:13 AM   #225
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***EDIT*** jusdt looked at pics of the 1nz. looks like it does have a breather hose that takes air from the intake hose after the filer and MAF but before the TB

Just read some info that some systems (like in the 2zr) a filtered air source for the crankcase is included to replace the air that the PCV valve vents out. This is because in these systems the PCV valve works on a very small but present vacuum to keeps crankcase pressure minimal. This "sucked out" air from the PCV valce needs to be replaced with clean air to avoid the crankcase having a vacuum. This is where that other hose that is located upstream of the TB and enter the valve cover comes into play.

So are you earlier stated technically this hose (which is now your breather) does "suck in" air - I used quotations as it isn't ever actually a vacuums as the negative pressure are so mild. But it is there to act as a vent to actually pull air in and not necessarily out of the crankcase.

How the 1nz and 1zz motors get around this without having the vent hose is beyond me. Something tells me this second hose is a new addition to PCV system to improve their effectiveness and it was added to the much never 2zr but was never included on the 1nz and 1zz due to their elderly status.

With all of this said, it still shouldn't be the source of your FT issue, but to be sure, clamp it off and see what happens
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Old 06-01-2019, 03:07 PM   #226
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Thanks Trevor. I blocked off the valve cover breather hose with my thumb while monitoring FTs. The suction on my thumb got stronger and stronger. In this situation the STFT actually started to climb and the engine rpm started to drop as though it was starting to struggle. At that point I removed my thumb and the idle went back to normal.

With the breather line open and around 3000 rpm, the STFT drops to about +6 to +7, down from +18 - +19, but LTFT remains at around +29. I'm leaning toward the different plumbing - airflow pattern/volume etc - throwing the MAF off and as a result the FTs and I hope that the MAF clamping via the F/IC should solve, or at least improve the situation. A lean code P0171 was finally set although AFR's always remain around stoich (14.6 - 14.8, so it seems the ECU still had control of fueling) and never deviated from that, except when the throttle was let off and it dropped to 18:1, but that's normal fueling strategy - my 1nz does that too as did the 2ZR pre-turbo.
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Old 06-02-2019, 09:13 PM   #227
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Hmm, the change you saw when when the engine r is what you would expect to see from a vacuum leak. Tje STFT will always adjust almost instantly but the LTFT will not until after a while, hence why it is a long term fuel trim.

That being said I have no experience with what a change in plumbing would do to FT's (other than my rich fuel trims seen after my exhaust install)

It's possible it's just your plumbing, but it is also possible that you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Use an incense burner or something similar that creates smoke - go in a garage so there is wind, open the engine at and let the car run. Move the smoke stick around your plumbing and see if the smoke gets influenced or "sucked in" anywhere. If not, than assume you have no leaks and just hope the piggyback ecu can adjust the fuel trims which it should.
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Old 06-02-2019, 11:26 PM   #228
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Thanks Trevor. Yes, I hope the F/IC MAF clamping will help the fuel trims. I'm pretty sure that the F/IC is going to be richening the A/FR anyway as boost comes on. I believe somewhere around 11.5:1 at high boost and rpm to help in preventing detonation. Hopefully my fuel pump can keep up.

As an update, I was getting a fair bit of burned oil smoke in my exhaust and oil in the downpipe. The compressor side and charge piping is dry/pristine. The 3/8" NPT x 1/2" barbed fitting that drains into the oil pan has a slightly upward tilt (due to the backward stance of the engine) causing a little pooling of oil in my return line. I had replaced the steel braided hose with some clear braided water hose to observe the draining. Currently the drain line goes behind and under the axle. I am going to do an upgrade to 5/8" drain hose and route the hose over and in front of the axle. If I use a smooth 45 degree fittings on the turbo oil drain and the pan drain, I'll have lots of axle clearance. I'll also be upgrading the oil pan drain fitting from 3/8" NPT x 1/2" barbed to 1/2" NPT x 5/8" barbed. I think this will provide better oil return to the pan. I'm also upgrading the turbo oil drain flange to a 5/8" fitting as I think the 1/2 barb interior diameter (more like 3/8") is restricting the oil and I have considerable oil supply going into the turbo. I think the current setup is a bit restrictive and hindering timely draining from the CHRA, causing my smoking as oil backs up and leaks through the turbine side piston ring. I'll post pics of this process after I get my parts.

But, for now, I wrestled the oil pan off - yet again. While I have it off, I'll drill and tap a 1/8" NPT for my oil temp. Oh, and I received a fitting to add an oil pressure sensor. I haven't broken it yet to the finance committee that there is another fairly large expenditure in the offing - gauges. I'm thinking oil temp, oil pressure and trans temp should do. I wasn't going to do oil temp at all, but since I have the pan off... Torque can report on coolant temp, A/FR, boost etc.
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Old 06-06-2019, 10:14 PM   #229
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440 CC Fuel Injectors Install

Worst part of this job was cleaning all the sand out from around the injector holes without getting it into the cylinders. This took a long time using a small paint brush dipped in grease, Q-Tips with grease and then brake cleaner. I wish I'd had a small yet powerful vacuum with a tiny nozzle. It would have made the job a lot easier, for sure.

Anyway, job is done. I guess I can't start the car again now without having the piggyback installed and the plugs gapped from .044 to .028. I still have to finish my turbo oil drain and parts are on order and should be here early next week. Then I'll drill and tap a 1/8" NPT for the oil temp gauge and reinstall the pan. Normally, I would be really excited about a gauge installation, choosing the gauges, deciding where to place them, etc, but honestly I'm not looking forward to that process at all.

Fuel rail removal:







Getting all the junk out of the way:



Lubing the injectors for installation:



Injectors installed



All done

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Old 06-08-2019, 09:39 AM   #230
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F/IC Wiring Prep

Dug out the F/IC Install Manual and my diagrams I made (and posted on page 1) specific to my ECU. Here, I am just eliminating all the wires that I will not be using for my install. I'd rather not cut these off as the ends are nicely labeled, but tucking them backwards into the harness will make it a lot thicker and necessitate a larger hole through the firewall. I may just extend the harness, containing only the wires I use by putting them in a separate piece of conduit and send that through the firewall.

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Old 06-08-2019, 10:25 AM   #231
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Getting so close to tune time. I hear you on the oil guage. It's not as fun as others to install. Keep up the great work. This rhing is going to be insane when you are done.

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Old 06-08-2019, 05:15 PM   #232
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Getting so close to tune time. I hear you on the oil guage. It's not as fun as others to install. Keep up the great work. This rhing is going to be insane when you are done.

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Yeah, getting there, haha. I had to send AEM an email asking about the grounds. There are 2 Power Grounds and 1 Signal Ground in the F/IC harness. I'm struggling to find where to tap these wires in. Hopefully AEM can provide me with the answer.

I just got off the phone with the guy who will be tuning my car and among other things, we discussed my catch can set up. He strongly advises capping off my pcv system at the block and manifold and moving my catch can - well, actually another catch can (mine is sealed and he suggests vented) to the vent side. He tells me I should connect the catch can to the valve cover vent. Depressing! This is advice contrary to what I've been told by the turbokits guys. I can see how the PCV system might leak a little boost into the crankcase, but what would pull all those nasty gasses out if there's no PCV system anymore? The tuner thinks that my lean condition and positive fuel trims will be cured if I follow his advice. So much contradictory advice abounds... It would be nice to just know what to do rather than weighing out opinion after opinion and trying to figure out the best route.
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Old 06-08-2019, 10:43 PM   #233
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F/IC Wiring Begins

Home of the F/IC will be somewhere in the area below. I have predrilled my hole in the firewall. All I need now is about a 1" - 1 1/4" hole saw and an appropriately sized grommet. Knowing nothing about available sizes, I'm going to have to research this. The F/IC harness is probably 5/8" - 3/4" in diameter. Haha, just noticed that little blue wire - that's connecting the "CT Scott" cruise control to the ECU. I must secure that wire!



Tracing wires. Recall that I am using a 2008 xD ECU and a 2011 xD wiring harness. I was going by wiring diagrams and not comparing to the car until tonight. Happy to say that all the wires I've checked against my proposed wiring appear to be matching colors and pin locations in the ECU plug. So far I've confirmed switched power, MAF, Cam 1 (intake), Cam 2 (exhaust), all 4 fuel injectors and the crank. Just have to confirm 02 sensors. I'm going by the fundamental rule that MAG sensors have 2 wires and Hall sensors have 3 wires. It's confusing because the AEM F/IC manual says that cars use one type or the other, but not both. My cams are 3-wire and my crank is 2-wire. Still all ears for any guidance on this. The dealer was no help; don't know which type of sensors they are and of course Toyota Canada just sends me back to the - in this case - useless dealer. Fingers crossed. The red circle is the approximate location that the harness will come through.



Culling unnecessary wires. These will remain bundled up under the dash with the F/IC as much as I want to hack them off, or remove them from the connector.

Let the soldering, heat-shrinking and wrapping begin! Actually, it'll be a few days before that process starts.

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Old 06-09-2019, 07:27 PM   #234
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More F/IC Installation Pics

I use a 1 1/4" bi-metal hole saw to cut through the firewall. Why so big, you ask? The F/IC harness is thick and I also have to pass a split loom through for gauge wires as well as the small vacuum line for the F/IC MAP sensor. There should be just enough room. Once it's all in there, I'll glob in some RTV to seal it up. It's not really in an area that gets any water, so this would probably not be necessary, but will do it for good measure.

Hole saw. After I cut through, I painted the bare metal and let it dry.



Reflecting on simplistic algebra I learned in school, I used C= pi x D to figure out how long a piece of rubber vacuum line I needed. I sliced the vacuum line and worked it into place as a 'grommet'. A little RTV on it before installation should keep it in place, but it's mighty secure without the RTV.





This is not the final placement of the F/IC. I will likely secure it to the upper kick panel area behind the glovebox and run the USB laptop interface into the glove box.



Lovely spaghetti to sort out...
__________________


2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer
https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/

Last edited by 06YarisRS; 10-07-2020 at 10:12 PM.
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