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08-06-2020, 09:55 AM | #1 |
Drives: Yaris 1.3 '08 Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Belgium
Posts: 14
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Checked valve clearance...got nasty suprise?!
Hi,
I have the 2008 Toyota Yaris, with the 1.3 2SZ-FE engine. The first 5 years, maintenance was done at the dealer. The last 5 years I did my maintance myself (oil change, filter, ...) At 8000km / intervals (yearly) Using the Toyota 5W30 oil. Now at 90.000km a check of the valve clearance is recommended. I pulled the valve cover, and measured the valve clearances. Both in- and exhaust camshaft clearances where in specification. But I got worried! That intake camshaft lobes don't look very good to me!? Actually the more I look to it, it looks awfull. The exhaust camshaft looks fine. When going over with my my fingernail, I can easily feel the 'pits' that are in there. I have the valve cover still open. Some toughts: New intake cam and shims? Just keep driving it this way? Manufacturing defect? Oil problem? (hm? I always checked the dipstick regularly, and had no oil burning or a low oil level) What should I do? / What would you do if it's was your car? Attached are some pictures Greetings! |
08-12-2020, 07:45 AM | #2 |
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
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That is interesting. It looks like corrosion, but that seems unlikely. You asked what a person would do if it were their car. I would probably have a machine shop look at it and see it they could determine the cause and/or profile the lobes with the cam in the car. Not sure if that's possible or not. I'd actually be wanting to see the bucket surfaces after being subjected to that roughness. So, I guess, again, if it were my car, I'd be pulling the cams. Not a nice job as the timing cover would have to come off. Also, the metal looks darkened by friction heat around the corroded area. I think the metal underneath the immediate surface is softer, so wear would probably accelerated in that condition. Did the engine every have any valve work/valve springs installed? Did the car ever lose oil pressure? My uneducated, gut feeling is either and incident of improper oiling or a casting defect in the cam. I can't see the car running well for an extended period of time. Again, if it were my car, I would have someone qualified inspect it. I suspect you're looking at a new cam and buckets, minimally.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/ Last edited by 06YarisRS; 08-12-2020 at 08:21 AM. |
08-12-2020, 11:27 AM | #3 |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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That is strange, I agree with Adam that is appears to he corrosion and not wear from lack of lubrication. That is strange however.
I'd leave it as is and drive it until/if it creates problems. The 1nz is very venerable and chances are it doesn't care about the pitting. Just run a good quality oil changed regularily from here on out
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08-12-2020, 11:56 AM | #4 | |
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
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Quote:
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/ |
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08-13-2020, 12:32 AM | #5 |
I have the same engine in my 07 Yaris. Now I am quite curious how my intake camshaft lobes look. (175.000km)
It might be good for comparison. I can do the important maintenance myself (I have changed oil, plugs, oxygen sensors, throttle body cleaning, brake rotors, shocks... that kind of stuff) but I have never tried to dig deeper inside any engine. Is it difficult to get to the camshafts in this engine? Or is it just a matter of removing the airbox, unscrewing a few bolts and you are there? No danger of damaging something that would render the car immobile? If I can get there I would take a picture for reference. |
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08-13-2020, 10:23 AM | #6 | |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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Quote:
I have seen a handful of 1jz and other japanese 4 bangers with the sake bucket and shim set up and I have never seen this issue before. This makes this all the more strange as it is putting and not typical score marks from valve train wear
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08-13-2020, 03:03 PM | #7 | |
Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris 3 door Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Arizona
Posts: 405
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Quote:
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08-13-2020, 04:22 PM | #8 |
Drives: Yaris 1.3 '08 Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Belgium
Posts: 14
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Hi!
Thanks you all for the replies! I did the following. - I pulled the camshaft from the car, using the procedure in the service manual. (never done before, but it went well) - I ordered a second hand camshaft in good condition from a local junk yard. - Temporarly installed the new cam. - Measured the 'new' clearances. - Some values were off (out of spec) - Have bought a micrometer to measure the shims. (never waste the opportunity to buy a good tool?) - I Calculated the new shims 'Number' using the table in the service manual So, my next step is: order the rest of the new shims. I'm not shure If old sim + 2nd hand cam is a good combination. Might replace them all? The bearings of the intake camshaft are quite Ok. Some pictures attached of my progress! - Picture of the old shims. Most had some wear (measured thickness with micrometer) - Last picture shows the new second hand camshaft I bought @komichal: Just checking is not too difficult: It goes like this: (still fresh in my head) Disconnect battery power. Disconnect mass airflow sensor (left of airbox). Disconnect throttle connector (right of airbox). Unbolt and remove airbox. Remove the ignition coils (leave the spark plugs in). Unbolt valve cover. (don't forget to remove the two clamps that hold the wiring harness to the valve cover - you can leave the wiring harness alone). Don't forget to unbolt the two bolts in the middle of the valve cover (I put a piece of carton the standoffs, I do not want to puncture my eyes in them) Note: They do want you to add two dabs of silicon sealant where the chain cover (left side) attaches on the main valve block. @yarisRS06 Good question. It was not serviced at the valves before. From just running the engine/driving the car, you could not tell. It behaved like: good fuel economy, no oil consuption, no strange noises to me. @remcafee Good idea's 8000 km/year is not much.Also quite a bit of short trips. Might explain the lubrication of the valve lobes is not ideal on a cold start? (they are the last part it would seem that the oil reaches) That combined with some city driving, lower rpm's? Last edited by vasonline; 08-13-2020 at 05:05 PM. |
08-13-2020, 07:48 PM | #9 |
Drives: 2014 Yaris SE Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,076
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After seeing more of the engine, and it appearing in good shape, I'm leaning towards a manufacturing defect during production of that camshaft. If the problem was low oil pressure it would show elsewhere. Ditto all other possible causes. The only other possibility is if the oil passage leading to that particular camshaft was clogged. Again unlikely as engine looks clean.
You made the right move in replacing it. |
08-14-2020, 12:16 AM | #10 |
@vasoline @tmontague
Thank you guys for your comments. I watched https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBJXmBJHlZc , it seems quite clear. Not sure if I will go for it though, as I can see on the video there is some extra red sealant/gunk added oll over the lid edges; is it a must-do or is there some sort of reusable factory gasket there? |
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08-14-2020, 04:05 PM | #11 | |
Drives: Yaris 1.3 '08 Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Belgium
Posts: 14
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Quote:
There is no red sealant on mine (2SZ-FE) engine. It is indeed a rubber gasket. No mention of a replacement in the manual. If my repair goes well I'll re-use that gasket. The new sims are ordered. Hopefully the arrive next week. Attached is the shim replacement table for the intake cam of the 2SZ-FE engine. |
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08-19-2020, 04:05 PM | #12 |
Drives: Yaris 1.3 '08 Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Belgium
Posts: 14
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Update
Hi!
Here is my update as of 19/8/2020: - The new shims have arrived. (calculated beforehand) - I installed camshaft with new shims (added some oil to the new parts) - Measured valve clearance, with all the new parts = Ok in specification. - Returned camshaft to correct timing mark. - Returned crankshaft to cut-out mark. (needs to at 90 degrees past cut-out mark if you want to rotate the cam(s) without the chain installed. This is for non-interference with the pistons) - Installed the chain, aligned the timing marks on the camshafts with the crankshaft. - Camshaft timing mark correct position is: center, when crankshaft posistion @ cut out. I have rotated the crankshaft a few times, and the timing marks keeps aliging nicely with the camshaft's cut-out marks. What do you think? Anything forgotten? Ready to go? Tormorrow I will try to finish the job (installing valva cover, air filter) Also Is it O.k. if I post these snippets from the service manual? If not allowed, I'll remove them ps: will re-install spark plugs, this was to remove the compression and make rotating the crankshaft easy. |
08-20-2020, 03:58 PM | #13 |
Drives: Yaris 1.3 '08 Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Belgium
Posts: 14
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Update 3
Today, I assembled everything.
I can report that the car is fixed. She started right up. No strange noises. Went out for a 20 minutes drive, and everything went OK. Maybe I should also change the oil after driving a bit? I am not sure how you 'break in' a second hand camshaft, with new valve shims. Greetings & thanks! |
08-20-2020, 04:17 PM | #14 |
Thank you for all the screens! Maybe one day I will find the courage to get that lid away and check everything myself... :)
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04-02-2021, 07:50 AM | #15 |
Drives: Yaris mk1 & Yaris mk2 Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: UK
Posts: 18
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Thanks for all that info greatly appreciated, and good job!
I have a 08 Yaris 130k miles, engine sounds rattly "tappy" compared to my rav which is very quite, if they were adjustable id dive it but removing the the cams and being off the road several days etc maybe its more trouble than just leaving it noisy i'm sure it will continue to run OK :\ Maybe oneday!! Then ill have peace and quite! |
04-02-2021, 08:22 AM | #16 |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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Well done!
I think those cams had a manufacturing defect - hence why only one of your cams were damaged. Likely an issues with the case hardening outer layer on the cams. As a side, I am pretty sure you can pull the cams without removing the timing cover, you just need to remove the tensioner and all the cam caps. Then you can manipulate your camshaft and cam gear assembly out from under the chain. At least I was able to do this in my 2zr last week when I installed my MWT stage 1 cams.
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No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by... |
04-02-2021, 05:18 PM | #17 |
Drives: Yaris mk1 & Yaris mk2 Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: UK
Posts: 18
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NOTE: In the Haynes workshop manual I have for the mk1 it does actually say this is all part of the inspection when checking the clearances "look out for pitting, scoring, overheating, galling, flaking away of harden surface and ovality of each lobe of the cams" and if sufficiently poor then replace the cam
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02-10-2024, 04:06 PM | #18 |
Just a note that I have inspected my camshafts (2SZFE) today (140,000 miles) when changing the valve cover gasket and they still look as new. So this was really probably just a bad luck with yours.
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