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12-02-2022, 07:26 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2007 5dr canadian import Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: pacific north WET
Posts: 1,025
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ballpeen/torque wrench sound front drivers side
im uploading a vid right now..had some noise on the road lastnight and limped the car home..assumed it was just a blown CV failing me..turned out the tire shop when they thru on the snows didnt torque the passenger side down...almost lost a wheel at 70 on the freeway.......
drivers side CV replaced, everything buttoned up torqued etc, car drives smooth and fine and aside from still having my "clunk" which im now 99% positive is my strut top(its hard to repeat reliably to find), i get the sound of a ballpeen hammer being dropped on a brake rotor..not swung in vengeance but a soft slow strike or a torque wrench clunk on "high torque" aplications its 110% repeatable except for "depth of sound" IE sometimes its soft sometimes its louder, but its specifically forward then rearward "change of force" initial i ruled out wheel/tire combo by lifting the car in the air and holding the brakes down hard..and could do it...... thinking was brake caliper or sliders, i locked up the E-barke and ran drive to reverse and back a few times and it does it without touching the brakes.. so that ...as far as i know...eliminates the possibility of it being caliper/rotor related...the rotor is just being a sounding bell for whatever is actually causing it thing is..what am i missing that it could be thats clearly echoing out onto the drivers side rotor...but NOT the passenger side....the new cv? |
12-02-2022, 08:09 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 4,790
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I hate having my car worked on by other people!
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12-02-2022, 09:59 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2007 5dr canadian import Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: pacific north WET
Posts: 1,025
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to be honest, tires and transmission rebuilds (not transmission installs i do that too) are the ONLY thing i farm out, after being screwed in 91 on a "full service engine tuneup" that left my cuda running worse than when i dropped it off
even with tires i typicaly drop off the wheels and pick em up and do the install myself, i was feeling lazy and these guys tend to be ultra carefull with my shit..but...they have a whole mess of new kids working there too....i knew better..managers basicly offering me anything i want as i called him and let him know is there a better service for vid uploads?..youtubes dragging is ass again |
12-03-2022, 01:40 AM | #4 |
Drives: 2007 5dr canadian import Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: pacific north WET
Posts: 1,025
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12-04-2022, 07:59 PM | #5 |
Drives: 2007 5dr canadian import Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: pacific north WET
Posts: 1,025
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anyone?..ill accept wild guesses even...just looking for any idea that makes sense
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12-05-2022, 09:51 AM | #6 |
Drives: 2007 Yaris Hatch Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Maryland
Posts: 50
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Maybe you remember, but I posted about a week ago saying I have a simmlar-ish noise. Doesn't sound 100% the same (at least to my ears), so take what I say as a grain of salt.... So far, I've replaced shocks, springs, strut mounts, strut bearing, strut bushings, outer tie rod end and sway bar end links (all brand-new genuine Toyota parts I might add). Car still makes the noise. At this point I've replaced so much there isnt much left it can be. Everything left passes the visual inspection. No torn boots and no noticeable play in any of the remaining components. I was originally thinking of replacing a CV-axle next, but now I'm heavily leaning towards the lower ball joint. I can't feel any play, but I've seen a few forum posts stating the lower ball joint on these seem to have very low tolerances compared to other surrounding components. While we can't feel any play by jacking the car up and shaking the wheel, there is enough play once load is on the suspension to produce a sound.
This theory makes the most amount of sense to me, because when I place load on the CV-axle (by placing my foot on the gas and brake simaltaiously) while turning full lock I can't get it reliably make the noise. It's also not rhythmic like I would expect. I can get it to produce the noise while hitting things like speed bumps at any steering angle (though steering tends to make it worse). This can often can point to a bad ball joint. I do hate just throwing parts at a car instead of performing a proper diagnosis, but at this point my Yaris is 15 years old. It can probably benefit from a new suspension system anyways... Last edited by Ecefour; 12-05-2022 at 10:13 AM. |
12-05-2022, 05:27 PM | #7 |
Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris 3 door Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Arizona
Posts: 405
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it sounds like the cv, can you grab it and see if it has a lot of play in it?
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12-05-2022, 05:51 PM | #8 |
Drives: 06 Polar White 5dr, 13 Soul 4u Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Georgetown, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 5,764
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Off topic, somewhat.
Earlier today my wife was passenger in an Accord owned by my sister-in-law when they experienced a ball joint seperation failure on the passenger side. Never actually seen it happen before. What a mess. Normally when my wheels are off I focus primarily on condition of the brakes. After this experience, I'll be paying more attention to anything with a boot on it.
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12-05-2022, 08:19 PM | #9 | |
Drives: 2007 Yaris Hatch Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Maryland
Posts: 50
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Quote:
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12-05-2022, 09:15 PM | #10 |
Drives: 2007 5dr canadian import Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: pacific north WET
Posts: 1,025
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baljoint seperation is actualy not all that common, less likely than say a hub bearing failure by a long shot...to which ive had happen..on a lifted truck with 33's...thats a long drop when the whole wheel, tire, caliper, rotor and assy goes running away from you at 70mph..and you have little to no brakes as it severed the line on the way out
im probably going to do the balljoint and strut top just to rule it out but im really starting to suspect it may be the "new" CV..this noise didnt exist before i swapped the CV...and changing the CV didnt get rid of the "thud" i had before anyone know what grease/lube goes into our CV's..ill buy a boot and repack the OE and see what happens at this point...i say lube cause when removing the unit the inner boot popped off and what came out was clean tanish sticky yet slippery stuff...it may be the only way to rule out the "new" CV |
12-06-2022, 05:55 PM | #11 |
Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris 3 door Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Arizona
Posts: 405
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you can get oem boot kits pretty cheap from the dealer, it is far better to overhaul your original axle than put an aftermarket one in, toyota axles outlast the car if they get new clamps boots and grease done when they leak or a boot tears
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12-07-2022, 08:33 PM | #12 | |
Drives: 2007 5dr canadian import Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: pacific north WET
Posts: 1,025
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Quote:
where do you get the "fluid" for them tho? dealer as well? |
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12-11-2022, 01:23 PM | #13 |
Drives: NCP90 TRD Yaris Manual Join Date: Oct 2022
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 270
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This sounds like a blown inner cv joint, this is exactly what they sound like. Damn I hope the tire shop is paying.
Look up some videos of what they sound like. |
12-12-2022, 05:12 PM | #14 |
Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris 3 door Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Arizona
Posts: 405
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it should come with the cv boot overhaul kit, the grease and everything
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12-14-2022, 07:43 PM | #15 |
Drives: 2007 5dr canadian import Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: pacific north WET
Posts: 1,025
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yeah its the inner CV..im having issues finding a rebuild kit tho..and the "honey" like grease
and to be clear its the "brand new" cv thats failing........ tossed the old one in dry in the air and not a peep out of it..so rebuilding it is what i intend to do but cant for the life of me find a kit |
12-15-2022, 12:49 AM | #16 | |
Drives: NCP90 TRD Yaris Manual Join Date: Oct 2022
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 270
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Quote:
with the propper cv boot if its not stuffed and just needs repacking. |
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