DIY Cruise Control FAQ (2006-2010 Yaris)

[bobor]

Originally Posted by CTScott

OK. In that case, back to your original question - I would not use mechanical relays. I would stick with solid state switching, by transistor or FET, to avoid the switching delays.

Unfortunatelly I do not have any experience with solid state switching. If you could point me to some good tutorial, I would appreciate it But AFAIK in this case, the input signal (voltage level) from either accelerator pedal (hall probes) or DAC would be somehow degradated (lowered) due to voltage drop PN junction.
Solid state switching is definitely faster than mechanical relay. But advantage of a relay is that it does not require power supply to interconnect one of the input lines to the ouput. I though of using this a safety mechanism, so in case anything goes wrong I would just switch off the power supply to cruise control module and the relay would (almost immediatelly) switch back to default state (direct connection of accelerator pedal). But if I find some good solution using solid state, I am about to change my mind.

[49erRider]

Couldn't get mine to work and tried searching these posts but has anyone else had an "a ha" moment when theirs didn't work and want to share?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by 49erRider

Couldn't get mine to work and tried searching these posts but has anyone else had an "a ha" moment when theirs didn't work and want to share?

The most common one with 06-08's, when using the OEM stalk is not properly seating the ECM pin. The check for that is to measure the voltage on the wire connected to the ECM pin with the ignition switch in the on position (engine not running). It should measure 12 Volts with no buttons pressed on the stalk. If it does not, then the pin is not seated properly or is in the wrong location.

[49erRider]

I figured it out! I had 12volts to the ECM pin so that wasn't the problem. When I drive I ride with my foot just resting on the clutch. That was enough to remove pressure from the plunger causing it to not activate.

Works great, another thankful yaris owner Scott!

[hayden]

Hey CTSCott - if you remember I bought a CC stalk from you along with the wiring kit. It worked fine for a month or two and you may remember me posting that it stopped working occasionally and would also sometimes make the car accelerate on it's own.

It eventually stopped working entirely but just now had time to go out with a multimeter to test it. This was done about a foot of wire away from the computer thingy (on the firewall in the engine bay) at one of those snap-close connectors I used. The ignition was on (I know you told me to do it with the ignition off, but hopefully this works too) but the engine off.

Car on but engine off: 12.3v
With the on/off button held: 0.2v
Held down: 6.1v
Held up: 3.4v
Held toward: 8.6v

Any idea why the CC wouldn't be working AT ALL? I have no idea what these values are supposed to be. I'm concerned that maybe the wire thickness I used may be too much, but I have no idea how these things work. I think it was the same type that you used in the wiring kit (had to buy extra from radio shack).

Thanks a ton for your help!

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by hayden

Hey CTSCott - if you remember I bought a CC stalk from you along with the wiring kit. It worked fine for a month or two and you may remember me posting that it stopped working occasionally and would also sometimes make the car accelerate on it's own.

It eventually stopped working entirely but just now had time to go out with a multimeter to test it. This was done about a foot of wire away from the computer thingy (on the firewall in the engine bay) at one of those snap-close connectors I used. The ignition was on (I know you told me to do it with the ignition off, but hopefully this works too) but the engine off.

Car on but engine off: 12.3v
With the on/off button held: 0.2v
Held down: 6.1v
Held up: 3.4v
Held toward: 8.6v

Any idea why the CC wouldn't be working AT ALL? I have no idea what these values are supposed to be. I'm concerned that maybe the wire thickness I used may be too much, but I have no idea how these things work. I think it was the same type that you used in the wiring kit (had to buy extra from radio shack).

Thanks a ton for your help!

Those voltages are fine (and that is correct to measure them with the engine off, but ignition on).

Try wiggling the ECM Pin while measuring to make sure that the connection is not intermittent.

Can you refresh my memory on if you have an AT or MT?

[hayden]

It's an AT 2007 2 door.

If there was no connection at all to the ECM, would that line still be powered? I'll go reseat the pin and see if that helps because it was definitely intermittent before dying entirely.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by hayden

It's an AT 2007 2 door.

If there was no connection at all to the ECM, would that line still be powered? I'll go reseat the pin and see if that helps because it was definitely intermittent before dying entirely.

That wire would be zero volts if disconnected. But, it could be connected when still and intermittently disconnected when the engine starts shaking it.

[hayden]

Originally Posted by CTScott

That wire would be zero volts if disconnected. But, it could be connected when still and intermittently disconnected when the engine starts shaking it.

Reseated the pin, no luck. I'll try going out there and wiggling it while taking a reading to see if I can make it go to 0. Any other advice if that shows up fine though?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by hayden

Reseated the pin, no luck. I'll try going out there and wiggling it while taking a reading to see if I can make it go to 0. Any other advice if that shows up fine though?

If that looks solid, work your way towards the stalk, verifying the connections along the way.

[hayden]

I'm trying to test the wire right at the stalk, but I think I'm maybe having trouble finding a ground for the negative pokey thing. Do you have suggestions of a ground available near the steering wheel?

I removed all my plastic connectors and just wrapped the ends of wires around each other, put a little solder, and duct taped it. I'm thinking maybe it's the D3 connector but wasn't able to remember how to "unclamp" it.

And it turns out, the extra wire I bought is this thick solid type (think barbed wire with rubber coating) rather than the typical frayed stuff you see in electronics - that doesn't matter does it?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by hayden

I'm trying to test the wire right at the stalk, but I think I'm maybe having trouble finding a ground for the negative pokey thing. Do you have suggestions of a ground available near the steering wheel?

I removed all my plastic connectors and just wrapped the ends of wires around each other, put a little solder, and duct taped it. I'm thinking maybe it's the D3 connector but wasn't able to remember how to "unclamp" it.

And it turns out, the extra wire I bought is this thick solid type (think barbed wire with rubber coating) rather than the typical frayed stuff you see in electronics - that doesn't matter does it?

Any bare metal under the dash will make a good ground.

The only potential issue with solid instead of stranded wire is flexibility. Solid wire can't be flexed too much or it will break.

[hayden]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Any bare metal under the dash will make a good ground.

The only potential issue with solid instead of stranded wire is flexibility. Solid wire can't be flexed too much or it will break.

I think I'm giving up. I guess I'm a god damned retard because apparently I cannot even make the wires connect. I reran ALL of the wire again, and the connection right at the D3 connector will be fine for 5 minutes, then with changing nothing, the connection will break. I'll check it at the ECM, it's fine, and then check it again at D3 and magically it's working again after changing nothing. And now even when there's a connection right before the D3 connector, moving the CC stalk no longer causes any changes in voltages, meaning there's now also a problem with the D3 connector or something between the D3 and the stalk.

Maybe I'll just put up a craigslist ad asking someone who isn't a retard to do it for me for $50 or something. Anyone in DFW want to make some easy money?

[ejm]

..anyone still selling the cheap OEM cruise control stalk & connector cable? for '09 yaris sedan?....I can only find the >$80 one's online, which is a bit over my budget!..any help appreciated!

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by ejm

..anyone still selling the cheap OEM cruise control stalk & connector cable? for '09 yaris sedan?....I can only find the >$80 one's online, which is a bit over my budget!..any help appreciated!

I still have a bunch that I sell for $40 with the wire and the mounting screws. I will PM you my paypal info.

[PROX4x4]

Originally Posted by CTScott

I still have a bunch that I sell for $40 with the wire and the mounting screws. I will PM you my paypal info.

Scott,

Finished installing mine yesterday, it took 1 hour and works like a charm, thanks for the fast shipping, extra pins and the stalk was brand new.

One thing else I forgot to add was that the stalk already had the Horn wire in it, no need to rewire per the DIY notes available in this site.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by PROX4x4

Scott,

Finished installing mine yesterday, it took 1 hour and works like a charm, thanks for the fast shipping, extra pins and the stalk was brand new.

One thing else I forgot to add was that the stalk already had the Horn wire in it, no need to rewire per the DIY notes available in this site.

Exactly - I actually add the horn wire before I ship them to make it easier for people to install them.

[jimmypeach]

Got my stick today, ( fast shipping!!) installed it in 1/2 hr!!

Thanks Scott!!