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11-09-2014, 12:45 PM | #217 |
Drives: Toyota Yaris 2010 Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Allentown PA
Posts: 14
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So no juice for me today unfortunately
The Valet 561T that i connected seems to be getting power because Tach Learning Procedure worked well However the remote start doesn't work at all not even getting the ignition lights - the error that i get is Flashing LEd 7 times which according to Troubleshoot means the following Seven (-) Neutral safety shutdown (H2/6 BLACK/WHITE) I do have this wire connected to Key Sense - am i on the right track here ? Thank you Last edited by camry09; 11-10-2014 at 06:31 PM. |
11-09-2014, 08:40 PM | #218 | |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
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11-10-2014, 06:39 PM | #219 |
Drives: Toyota Yaris 2010 Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Allentown PA
Posts: 14
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Alright maybe im missing something, but so far this is the only thing that ive found
IMPORTANT! This product is designed for fuel-injected, automatic transmission vehicles only.Installing it in a standard transmission vehicle is dangerous and is contrary to its intended use. Thank also this part Connect this wire to the toggle (override) switch as shown in Figure A. Connect the other wire from the toggle switch to the PARK/NEUTRAL switch in the vehicle. This wire will test with ground with the gear selector either in PARK or NEUTRAL. This will prevent the vehicle from accidentally being started while in a drive gear. This input MUST rest at ground in order for the remote start system to operate. Connected properly the vehicle will only start while in PARK or NEUTRAL. In some vehicles, the PARK/NEUTRAL position switch activates a factory starter lock-out that will not allow the starter to operate in a drive gear. In these vehicles, connect this wire to the toggle switch as shown in Figure B. Connect the other wire from the toggle switch to chassis ground. Do i just ground this wire and call it a day? From guys that did this install on AT can you please point me on the right track thank you |
11-10-2014, 06:58 PM | #220 | |
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Looking at the configuration guide where you can get into the menus and change different settings, it looks like this one does not have a setting for it. I just installed a Viper remote starter (also made by DEI, like Valet) in my sister's Tacoma and had the same issue, but changing the default MT setting to AT solved it. For yours, just ground that wire.
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12-20-2014, 11:22 PM | #221 |
Drives: Toyota Yaris 2010 Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Allentown PA
Posts: 14
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Success!!!!! its alive and working, 3x time hit Close and it starts up
The only thing it doesn't want to open from Remove while vehicle is running, will have to use the key to open the doors for now till can figure that out A special thank you to STScott for helping with advice |
03-29-2015, 06:54 PM | #222 |
Drives: 07 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: MI, USA
Posts: 5
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1172 Ultra Start issues
I've go an interesting issue. 2007 Yaris sedan, no factory alarm, no engine immobilizer, power locks. I followed the DIY PDF to install U1272 Ultra Start. Had remote lock/unlock functionality with park lamp flash using either of the two fobs, but remote start did not work when I pressed the star button and the horn did not sound with any command. The strange things is that it would remote start intermittently when I pressed the star button, then lock button.
I entered programming mode and was working through the lock button menus when the car suddenly started but never disengaged the starter . I tried pressing the brake then turning the key to OFF (normal to stop remote start functionality), but that didn't work. After some panic, I pulled power to the remote start module. Now every time I apply power to the module, the vehicle instantly cranks, but won't start. I have the hood up (hood switch open) and key is out of ignition--doesn't matter. Continuity is good on the black starter wire to yellow wire from remote starter module. None of the wires of the 6 pin remote starter connector are shorted to ground (continuity checked). Is there somewhere I can check to see if the module could be giving ground when it shouldn't. Please help! Last edited by JBinc; 03-30-2015 at 08:20 AM. |
03-29-2015, 07:01 PM | #223 |
Drives: 07 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: MI, USA
Posts: 5
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One other note--now when I plug in the connector on the remote starter side for door lock/unlock my lock button on the door switch panel does not work, but unlock does. If I disconnect the connector again, the lock and unlock work when using the door switch panel (normal functionality).
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03-29-2015, 07:28 PM | #224 | |
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Quote:
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03-30-2015, 07:55 AM | #225 | |
Drives: 07 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: MI, USA
Posts: 5
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03-30-2015, 12:14 PM | #226 |
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I haven't had one of theirs fail. They theoretically only sell to authorized installers, so you will likely have to deal with who you bought it from.
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03-30-2015, 08:24 PM | #227 |
Drives: 07 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: MI, USA
Posts: 5
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I spoke to the seller--fairly simple. They're sending a replacement module. Thanks for your help thus far.
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08-14-2015, 06:10 PM | #228 |
boydstir
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hi CTScott you have giving me some info in the past of a few different topics my only trouble i have had for years on my 08 yaris lb with power package is when my car is stored in a building for months at a time even with a trickle charger hooked up my battery will drain completely i have a python 571xp remotoe start with keyless entry i have pulled all my fuses for the stereo and amps trying to isolate this constant draw did not help then sometimes the cars will be stored same way battery stays up i keep telling my stereo guy its not the car itself but im sure wondering these days i have used yellow top optima and oddessy battery for longer life still not holding out when stored i do run a 180 amp dc alternator had the problem before and after alt install what do you think would cause this draw to be there most of the time and others not ? any advise from you would be awsome you are the yarisworld info king here oh no others add ons installed on my yaris just a little radio work and remote start and keyless entry only
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08-14-2015, 07:15 PM | #229 | |
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Quote:
The Yaris has one of the highest static draws that I have ever seen on a car (~100 mA), which by itself will drain a battery is less than a month. Add a remote starter and you are up in the 200-250 mA range, where 2 weeks without starting it is pushing it. Your trickle charger may just not be enough to counteract the static draw. I use a battery quick disconnect switch on Crashy.
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08-14-2015, 08:39 PM | #230 |
boydstir
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I have dealt with this voltage draw for years :iono:
okay is there a way if i have a professional wire my new alarm with remote start to have a remote function on a relay to kill the remote start draw when i store the car to slow the draw down i like the idea of a battery isolator just have to re program the head unit after each time i get my car out of storage to drive i am in the process of adding a second or even a third battery to build up the battery reserve for the radio and crazy voltage draw they will be mounted in the rear behind back seat quarters panels have you seen my new a pillar speaker addition still have to get the grills installed for the complete stealth look
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08-14-2015, 08:54 PM | #231 |
boydstir
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one more question ctscott what brand would you spend your money on for complete security , remote start and gps tracking ? seems my only two options these days are viper or CompuStar ? sorry to be off topic here
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08-14-2015, 08:55 PM | #232 |
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No. The receiver for the remote is what creates the extra drain.
Nice speaker install on the pillars!
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09-26-2015, 11:28 PM | #233 |
Drives: 2010 gray Yaris Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 3
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S.O.S I need help
Hi, I'm trying to install a remote starter on 2010 Toyota Yaris with immobilizer. I Use your guide to find all the wires and was easy to connect everything, but the starter didn't work... I'm a little confused with this car because I don't know if it has an alarm system or not. It has power doors and panic bottom on the key. I made the following connections between the remote starter module and the car: Ignition 1 on remote starter to the green wire in the car, Ignition 2 to the pink cable on the car, Accessory to the white one, and the Start to the black wire. I connect the bypass module as directed and it seems to be ok. Brake, parking lights, tach signal, horn and hood safety switch, were connected according with your wiring guide. So I have some doubts on the Ignition cables (should I use the green cable as ignition 2 and the pink one as ignition 1?) and should I use the alarm disarm wire on the module? If yes where must be connect it?
Thanks any help would be appreciated. Sincerely, Andres. |
09-27-2015, 07:04 AM | #234 | |
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