"Parmas" Motor - Page 14 - Toyota Yaris Forums

Parmas · 01-27-2010, 05:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yaris-me

Sexy engine! You need a pink dip stick to set it off!

OR >>> Garm's Intake Mainfold

I'm waiting . . .

BTW just found this on my pc

> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u0wage2LBdM

Parmas · 02-12-2010, 12:27 PM

This week we installed Siemens Deka 4 630cc injectors. Since the Siemens housing length is slightly different from original toyota injectors they needed to be "modified" to match the fuel rail.

Now needs tuning from scratch, I hope it makes real power with these on

cali yaris · 02-12-2010, 01:37 PM

ooh man can't wait for new results!! I have great hopes for this project!

Parmas · 02-12-2010, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cali yaris

ooh man can't wait for new results!! I have great hopes for this project!

My tuner just called in to tell that tomorrow will trial the car for some drag races. I am expecting 16psi or more boost with better AFR numbers than the previous tune.

Guess what? ..... if all goes well I think I will be the one to trial the Gude Performance Head package on our 1NZ. I already send him an e-mail to get some more details on cams....

Stay tuned!

cali yaris · 02-12-2010, 07:29 PM

You're drag racing tomorrow? or tuning tomorrow, or both... ?

Parmas · 02-13-2010, 02:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cali yaris

You're drag racing tomorrow? or tuning tomorrow, or both... ?

Both :) Since we tune specifically on drag road for a precise and realtime tuning...

cali yaris · 02-13-2010, 03:27 AM

oh "street tuning", gotcha.

Parmas · 02-28-2010, 04:38 AM

Some bad news....

Yesterday we done a compression test since we are still having trouble idle and slow runing the engine. Well it result that 2 cyclinders are loosing compression and probably some valves not sealing properly...

There is also a problem to convert the engine with the authorities (due to some changes in law) since there is a fine difference due to bigger displacement (probably within $2000 range

) So we are now intending to modify the 2NZFE 1.3L engine block to match the 1NZFE rods and in the meantime solving aswell the problem of the compression. We have to measure all the necessary points of the block in order to make this happen....

This will cost lots of money & time and since I am out of cash it will be a while to update my status....

cali yaris · 02-28-2010, 12:28 PM

aw, so sorry to hear this. Do you think the motor came to you with these problems?

Is this your first compression test on it???

Parmas · 02-28-2010, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cali yaris

aw, so sorry to hear this. Do you think the motor came to you with these problems?

Is this your first compression test on it???

It was checked the compression after we opened it to check all things right and found loosing. The problem should have been solved by then but it seems that it isn't infact.

I am thinking of making a 2NZFE block conversion to match the 1NZFE rods. Since the 2 blocks have the same bore size of 75mm, what issues (if there are) I could face doing this? Is there something I need to know before I get into it or else is it possible to make it without much complications?

turboecho2005 · 02-28-2010, 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cali yaris

aw, so sorry to hear this. Do you think the motor came to you with these problems?

Garm... and can assure you and Parma, that the motor had excellect compression when we sold it.

Parmas · 03-03-2010, 04:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turboecho2005

Garm... and can assure you and Parma, that the motor had excellect compression when we sold it.

I am not saying that the engine was defective when sold.

When the engine arrived, it was opened and checked that all parts match the details. After assembling a compression test was made and marked loosing. The mech said they solved it and I continued to finally tune in. When we noticed having several idle and slow running problems we checked again to be sure and found loosing again.

I think there is a funny thing around and someone fu**ed me from behind on this

cdydjded · 03-03-2010, 10:44 AM

A proper test that would have determined the condition of this engine is not a compression test, its a leak down test. A compression test only tells you the compression psi in the cylinder chamber but it does not telling you if the piston rings or valves are sealing correctly. BTW how much vacuum was you boost guage reading at idle?

Parmas · 03-03-2010, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdydjded

A proper test that would have determined the condition of this engine is not a compression test, its a leak down test. A compression test only tells you the compression psi in the cylinder chamber but it does not telling you if the piston rings or valves are sealing correctly. BTW how much vacuum was you boost guage reading at idle?

Vacuum was -20 if I remember correctly.

Tell me more about this leak down test

cdydjded · 03-03-2010, 02:00 PM

Here is a good article:
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ter/index.html

My car is @ -22 so -20 is not that different. You low compression issue could be one of the following problems:
Piston ring end gap wrong
Piston to cylinder wall clearance wrong
Valve to valve seat problem
Crack or broken ring lands
These are just a few that I can list. Im not saying it has to be one of these, but its a possibility.

Parmas · 03-03-2010, 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdydjded

Here is a good article:
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ter/index.html

My car is @ -22 so -20 is not that different. You low compression issue could be one of the following problems:
Piston ring end gap wrong
Piston to cylinder wall clearance wrong
Valve to valve seat problem
Crack or broken ring lands
These are just a few that I can list. Im not saying it has to be one of these, but its a possibility.

Nice test I didn't know about it since now. Interesting tool ... what brand do you recommend?

cdydjded · 03-03-2010, 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Parmas

Nice test I didn't know about it since now. Interesting tool ... what brand do you recommend?

I dont have a specific prefrence, here are a few:
http://www.google.com/products?hl=en...ell=1&oi=spell

rob323 · 03-03-2010, 06:10 PM

If you have a compression tester, you can easily tell if it's the rings or the valves which are causing the problem. Run the compression test as you would normally and take note of the reading.
Then remove the compression tester fitting and drop a teaspoon of oil (any normal mineral oil will do, castor oil, motor oil, doesn't really matter as long as it is thin (ie. not gearbox oil)) down the spark plug hole and then repeat the compression test. The oil you put down the combustion chamber helps the rings to seal better. If the reading is the same as before the oil was added, then the problem is in the head (valves, valve guides etc). If the reading is dramatically better than without the oil, then you look towards your pistons and rings for the problem.
If the reading is only slightly better than before you added the oil, but still low compared to the other pistons, then you possibly have a bent rod.

02-12-2010, 01:37 PM	#237
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,859	ooh man can't wait for new results!! I have great hopes for this project! __________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

02-12-2010, 07:29 PM	#239
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,859	You're drag racing tomorrow? or tuning tomorrow, or both... ? __________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

02-13-2010, 03:27 AM	#241
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,859	oh "street tuning", gotcha. __________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

02-28-2010, 12:28 PM	#243
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,859	aw, so sorry to hear this. Do you think the motor came to you with these problems? Is this your first compression test on it??? __________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

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02-12-2010, 12:27 PM	#236
Parmas Drives: Vitz RS Turbo Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: ML Posts: 577	This week we installed Siemens Deka 4 630cc injectors. Since the Siemens housing length is slightly different from original toyota injectors they needed to be "modified" to match the fuel rail. Now needs tuning from scratch, I hope it makes real power with these on

02-28-2010, 04:38 AM	#242
Parmas Drives: Vitz RS Turbo Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: ML Posts: 577	Some bad news.... Yesterday we done a compression test since we are still having trouble idle and slow runing the engine. Well it result that 2 cyclinders are loosing compression and probably some valves not sealing properly... There is also a problem to convert the engine with the authorities (due to some changes in law) since there is a fine difference due to bigger displacement (probably within $2000 range ) So we are now intending to modify the 2NZFE 1.3L engine block to match the 1NZFE rods and in the meantime solving aswell the problem of the compression. We have to measure all the necessary points of the block in order to make this happen.... This will cost lots of money & time and since I am out of cash it will be a while to update my status....

03-03-2010, 10:44 AM	#247
cdydjded Drives: Yaris LB Turbo Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Miami FL Posts: 782	A proper test that would have determined the condition of this engine is not a compression test, its a leak down test. A compression test only tells you the compression psi in the cylinder chamber but it does not telling you if the piston rings or valves are sealing correctly. BTW how much vacuum was you boost guage reading at idle?

03-03-2010, 02:00 PM	#249
cdydjded Drives: Yaris LB Turbo Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Miami FL Posts: 782	Here is a good article: http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ter/index.html My car is @ -22 so -20 is not that different. You low compression issue could be one of the following problems: Piston ring end gap wrong Piston to cylinder wall clearance wrong Valve to valve seat problem Crack or broken ring lands These are just a few that I can list. Im not saying it has to be one of these, but its a possibility.

03-03-2010, 06:10 PM	#252
rob323 Don't drive it, RALLY it! Drives: 1999 echo PRC rally car Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Joyner, Brisbane Posts: 321	If you have a compression tester, you can easily tell if it's the rings or the valves which are causing the problem. Run the compression test as you would normally and take note of the reading. Then remove the compression tester fitting and drop a teaspoon of oil (any normal mineral oil will do, castor oil, motor oil, doesn't really matter as long as it is thin (ie. not gearbox oil)) down the spark plug hole and then repeat the compression test. The oil you put down the combustion chamber helps the rings to seal better. If the reading is the same as before the oil was added, then the problem is in the head (valves, valve guides etc). If the reading is dramatically better than without the oil, then you look towards your pistons and rings for the problem. If the reading is only slightly better than before you added the oil, but still low compared to the other pistons, then you possibly have a bent rod.