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05-21-2009, 06:58 PM | #253 |
Super Moderator
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The cold start sounds normal to me. In my case it's always @ 2.5K
It shouldn't settle @1.1K though... That sounds high to me when idling. The CEL thing is hit/miss... Some ppl get it, some ppl don't.
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05-21-2009, 07:02 PM | #254 | |
Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 966
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Quote:
I hope i didnt get a defective one. |
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05-22-2009, 02:23 AM | #255 |
Turn the idle screw 1.5 turns counter-clockwise. Also, if you used any gasket maker, you need to not run the car for a few hours to let that stuff cure, or else the idle vacuum will suck the stuff into the intake manifold...which will give you really erratic running and a CEL.
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05-22-2009, 08:35 AM | #256 |
Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 966
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well its morning gonna try again that idle screw is hard to turn.
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05-22-2009, 11:03 AM | #257 |
Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 966
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ffs its stripped the fing screw!!!
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05-22-2009, 11:06 AM | #258 |
toyota
Drives: 2007 Yaris RS Blazed Join Date: Oct 2006
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get rid of the glue.. then try wd40.
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05-22-2009, 01:10 PM | #259 |
If the set screw is toast get a broken bolt remover and pull it out. I believe an M3x20mm screw will work as a replacement.
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05-22-2009, 02:19 PM | #260 |
Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
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ok so i got back throttle response due to chip swap but its idling at 1.6k warm.....
Also when i tried the holding rpm thing it just starts to bounce up and down :(. I think i may need to disconnect the battery longer cause i only did it for 20 min. got to find a way to get that screw out. O btw i just realized that the TB i got came from an auto trans car. Do you think that makes a diff? |
05-22-2009, 03:07 PM | #261 |
Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 966
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drove it city hard. oscillated whenever i depressed the clutch. got to the Auto part store alive pulled the code it read 2103 Motor circuit high. Unop leaving the store the oscillation went away for the mosr part. It only goes from wateva rpm i am at to 500rpm then settles at 600-700rpm
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05-22-2009, 03:14 PM | #262 |
Make sure there are no leaks between the TB and the intake manifold.
Did you use the stock yaris TB gasket (that O-ring with the small brass screen)? Once you get the idle screw fixed you'll be in good shape. The fact that the TB came from an auto car won't make a differance. Last edited by jkuchta; 05-22-2009 at 03:30 PM. |
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05-22-2009, 03:28 PM | #263 |
Super Moderator
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Yup... Happened to me too... Still haven't fixed it, but don't really have to either
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05-22-2009, 03:29 PM | #264 | |
Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
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Quote:
I an attempt to figure this out i sarted reading http://www.etimago.com/yaris/repairm...%20Control.pdf search 2103 |
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05-22-2009, 03:36 PM | #265 |
Don't bother going to a dyno until the problems you have are ironed out. Until I got the idle set screw set up properly the thing didn't feel any better, but when the TB is dialed in the differance is pretty noticable.
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05-22-2009, 03:39 PM | #266 |
Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
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yea i guess i am tiered for today tho tomorrow i go remove the bolt and replace it
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05-22-2009, 05:49 PM | #267 |
Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 966
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cel gone oscillated gone stock idle. hope it last
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05-22-2009, 10:09 PM | #268 |
1NZ-FE
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cel gone, oscillated gone and stock idle... and u havent touch the idle screw, right?
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05-22-2009, 10:31 PM | #269 |
The whole point of adjusting the idle screw is not to stop CEL's in the short term....the point is to stop the CEL from ever coming back down the road.
If you don't adjust the idle screw, the ECU will eventually compensate and not throw a code, but the second you unplug the battery, all of the bad symptoms will come back. If you do adjust the idle set screw, the ECU will adjust much quicker and the idle will be more stable. Also, later on when you disconnect the battery to do something, when you hook it back up, the car will behave as though the normal TB is installed (i.e. slightly low idle while it relearns all of the relevant trims). PLUS.....when I adjusted the set screw on my 1zz TB, i noticed that off-idle performance was improved, and most of the jerkyness associated with the DFCO fuction was gone (before the adjustment, when DFCO would kick it it felt like I was putting the brakes on!). Overall....you can do this swap without messing with the idle set screw and the CEL will more than likely go away (if the TB is properly sealed to the manifold), but adjusting the set screw really unlocks a lot of the benefit of the swap. |
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05-23-2009, 01:08 AM | #270 |
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