Yoda's Turbo Log

[Scubaru Steve]

Originally Posted by Blown_xa

Don't worry about ignition, the factory packs are good past 30psi of boost. I use Haltec Sprint 500, factory wiring harness. Just made a patch (plug and play) harness.

+1, haltech makes amazing electronics
http://www.haltech.com/index.php/pro...num-sprint-500

[Bluevitz-rs]

^ but it still doesn't do VVTi right?

[Blown_xa]

Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs

^ but it still doesn't do VVTi right?

Platnum sport 1000 does. Factory ecu controls vvti on mine (Sprint 500), use to have Camcon assist... but removed it along with turbo timer. Im the type of person who likes to minimise the number of electronic devices in my car. VVTI honestly isnt worth the time spent tuning IMO. You would be looking at a couple more hours of tune time, for a few whp under the boost curve (max power won't change).

[Parmas]

Originally Posted by Blown_xa

Platnum sport 1000 does. Factory ecu controls vvti on mine (Sprint 500), use to have Camcon assist... but removed it along with turbo timer. Im the type of person who likes to minimise the number of electronic devices in my car. VVTI honestly isnt worth the time spent tuning IMO. You would be looking at a couple more hours of tune time, for a few whp under the boost curve (max power won't change).

Yeah the Haltech Platinum sport 1000 is currently my ecu and is great in efficiency tuning so far. I cannot understand how the factory ecu is controlling the vvti when it needs certain controls that now are connected to your Sprint 500 ?

I have to disagree with Blown_xa about VVti. I got about 20 torque and 25 bhp till 5000rpm with as far as 30Degrees Advance till 5psi boost. VVTi was tuned within an hour so it was surely worth the time spent tuning !

The Haltech ecu can handle idle control (make it a point that not all standalone ecus handle it so check out the specs first). Attached is my idle control page on ecu.

[Blown_xa]

Originally Posted by Parmas

Yeah the Haltech Platinum sport 1000 is currently my ecu and is great in efficiency tuning so far. I cannot understand how the factory ecu is controlling the vvti when it needs certain controls that now are connected to your Sprint 500 ?

I have to disagree with Blown_xa about VVti. I got about 20 torque and 25 bhp till 5000rpm with as far as 30Degrees Advance till 5psi boost. VVTi was tuned within an hour so it was surely worth the time spent tuning !

The Haltech ecu can handle idle control (make it a point that not all standalone ecus handle it so check out the specs first). Attached is my idle control page on ecu.

The factory ecu still sees everything and controls the vvti actuator just like factory, this is because of the way mine is wired. The halted sprint 500 doesn't control vvti, so that is how it should be wired. However, with the sport 1000 in your case.... It is wired up and can control vvti. It is no surprise you got gains, but that is because you started at a static vvti state ( you started with zero advance).

[Parmas]

Originally Posted by Blown_xa

The factory ecu still sees everything and controls the vvti actuator just like factory, this is because of the way mine is wired. The halted sprint 500 doesn't control vvti, so that is how it should be wired. However, with the sport 1000 in your case.... It is wired up and can control vvti. It is no surprise you got gains, but that is because you started at a static vvti state ( you started with zero advance).

And I thought the Sprint series were better than the Sport Series!

[Bluevitz-rs]

Yeah vvti is more for N/A on this motor.

[Yoda]

Ok i will take your advice. Need to fix my idle problem first. There is a popping sound and the afr dips to 17s every time it does it. Tried scanning it and it showed no misfires so it may just be hitting lean spots. Think there maybe a small leak some where that i need to hunt down. Then gonna get another compression test and a proper retune.

Considering water meth too.

[ilikerice]

Got a quick question for you guys on the standalone.

I hear some use just a piggy back and the stock ecu will correct itself after a while and been reading people just reset their computer by disconnecting the negative on their battery for a min. then runs fine again.

Going standalone. this eliminates that problem, correct? Once its set, its done?

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by ilikerice

Got a quick question for you guys on the standalone.

I hear some use just a piggy back and the stock ecu will correct itself after a while and been reading people just reset their computer by disconnecting the negative on their battery for a min. then runs fine again.

Going standalone. this eliminates that problem, correct? Once its set, its done?

I can definitely understand your confusion here because tbh everyone throws that explanation around and it's really vague.

THERE IS NO REASON YOU CAN'T USE A PIGGYBACK WITH OUR ECU. I assume what most people are talking about when they say this is air/fuel ratio behavior. Yes, the stock ecu will "correct" itself making it impossible to run closed loop fuel control without modifying the O2 signals. On the plus side, it will also change ignition and camshaft timing accordingly. Of course if those were manually tuned (standalone) you could crank more power out.

Moral of the story if using a piggyback: either run open loop, or manipulated closed loop (O2 signals, tps signal).

[Bluevitz-rs]

Yeah a standalone will take over all the control functions of the stock ECU to run the engine. You'd only need to leave the stock ECU connected to specific functions to control specialty items like cruise and auto transmission ect...

[cali yaris]

^ and power steering, even though there is a separate power steering ECU. Found that out by mistake when we removed the ECU.

My stock cluster lights up like a christmas tree now. P/S, airbags, temp, maintenance req'd (I leave that on as a joke), and one more I can't remember.

[ilikerice]

awesome, thanks for the clarification on that Focus.

[speed1]

Originally Posted by ilikerice

awesome, thanks for the clarification on that Focus.

Please,
be so gentle and tell me why u felt desire to go standalone than piggy?
I mean I first know piggy with stock oxigen sensors cannot do much.
But they sensors replaced by wideband sensor so stock denso ecu stands only like dead link from piggy to engine.
I have emanage ultimate and vmanage:
I don't need anybody's help to map from zero new ecu but I use stock base map as given and I modify reading wideband gauge.
Want u to tell me standalone is quicker?
My piggyes work at 8 bit like denso ecu.
Where I wanna go?
Please again,
I'm not engineer but it seems to me I don't need else better than I have.
God bless u to explain me I'm mistaken.

[Yoda]

Goal is 300WHP...

[Yoda]

Need help on the injector size. Dont know what size to use. Its gonna be tunned for 250 whp untill i get a few more suppension mods and lsd. Got pics of dome goodies will post later.

[cali yaris]

minimum 550cc, or get the ones I have @ 632cc

[Bluevitz-rs]

So did you end up doing any internal work?