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Old 07-29-2012, 10:24 AM   #1
CTScott
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Originally Posted by CodyTheBody View Post
Do I need to buy the screws that are linked with the cruise control stalk or can I find them at Lowe's? If at Lowe's, what size/type screws are they?
They are just M5 x 10mm long screws. I include them with the stalk, when I sell them.
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Old 07-29-2012, 06:09 PM   #2
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Parts came early, installation went perfectly. Huzzah!

Many thanks, CTScott.
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Old 08-28-2012, 12:21 PM   #3
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PM sent

to you Scott
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Old 10-23-2012, 02:26 PM   #4
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Awesome guides

First of all thanks for everybody that contributed to this, you're awesome .

I'd like to clarify, in the hopes this may turn up in future Google results posts, the OEM style upgrade does in fact work on the 2010 Yaris Hatchback USA Manual Package (I'm not referring to manual transmission, but manual window/locks/etc.). Everywhere I looked most people either had the power package, the sedan, or both. For those not knowing what to get, I grabbed this from a post above:

84632-08021 Cruise Control Engagement Switch (refered to as 'control stalk' in other posts)
84633-02020 Cruise Control Switch Wire
90159-50199 Screws (order quantity of 2)
45184-52130-BO Cover Steering Wheel (comes with the hole already in it for the cruise switch)

The post also mentioned getting the parts from http://www.toyotapartscheap.com/

The prices there are a little higher than places like ebay, amazon, etc. but it's a one-stop kinda deal, no guessing & hoping you're getting the right part. Not to mention their customer service is really great.

*edit* Although CTScott mentioned he's got all the parts required for this, as mentioned in the post below mine :) *edit*

Just thought I'd give my 2cents. Again, wonderful guides, FAQs, and people on this board, thanks again so much

Last edited by neromaverick; 10-23-2012 at 02:42 PM. Reason: Updated info for finding parts
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Old 10-23-2012, 02:38 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neromaverick View Post
First of all thanks for everybody that contributed to this, you're awesome .

I'd like to clarify, in the hopes this may turn up in future Google results posts, the OEM style upgrade does in fact work on the 2010 Yaris Hatchback USA Manual Package (I'm not referring to manual transmission, but manual window/locks/etc.). Everywhere I looked most people either had the power package, the sedan, or both. For those not knowing what to get, I grabbed this from a post above:

84632-08021 Cruise Control Engagement Switch (refered to as 'control stalk' in other posts)
84633-02020 Cruise Control Switch Wire
90159-50199 Screws (order quantity of 2)
45184-52130-BO Cover Steering Wheel (comes with the hole already in it for the cruise switch)

The post also mentioned getting the parts from http://www.toyotapartscheap.com/

The prices there are a little higher than places like ebay, amazon, etc. but it's a one-stop kinda deal, no guessing & hoping you're getting the right part. Not to mention their customer service is really great.

Just thought I'd give my 2cents. Again, wonderful guides, FAQs, and people on this board, thanks again so much

As a clarification - All 09+ liftbacks have the wiring to the steering column. Sedans are the ones which do not if they do not have the power package.

To save those looking some significant money - I stock all of the parts required except for the lower steering wheel cover (which I prefer to drill anyway). I sell the stalk, wire and screws for $40 shipped to the US or Canada, which is less than half of the $86.55 + shipping which that site sells them for. I also carry the wiring parts required for pre-09 Yaris as well.
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Old 03-06-2014, 10:22 AM   #6
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Quote:
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I have read that people have had the AP800 installed on D4D Yaris. I read that it cost about $800 USD.

http://www.conrad-anderson.co.uk/cru...isecontrol.htm
Hi is there any information anywhere on these installs?

I've acquired a second hand AP800 and want to install it on my Yaris and have figured out the wiring except for the accelerator pedal.
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Old 03-06-2014, 10:33 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by hockysa View Post
Hi is there any information anywhere on these installs?

I've acquired a second hand AP800 and want to install it on my Yaris and have figured out the wiring except for the accelerator pedal.
Like I asked on your other thread - What year is your Yaris, as that makes a difference in the wiring?
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Old 03-06-2014, 10:43 AM   #8
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Like I asked on your other thread - What year is your Yaris, as that makes a difference in the wiring?
oh sorry didn't see a reply

it's a 2007 Yaris
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Old 03-06-2014, 11:02 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by hockysa View Post
oh sorry didn't see a reply

it's a 2007 Yaris
OK. The accelerator pedal has a 6 pin connector.

1 - White: VCP2 (Sensor 2 power)
2 - Brown: EPA2 (Sensor 2 ground)
3 - Light blue: VPA2 (Sensor 2 output)
4 - Black: VCPA (Sensor 1 power)
5 - Green: EPA (Sensor 1 ground)
6 - Red: VPA (Sensor 1 output)


I haven't seen the install manual for the AP800 for the Yaris, but looking at the pinout of the AP800 it has a high and low throttle position sensor connections.

On the Yaris the VPA signal would be the low one (2.6 to 4.5 V at full throttle) and VPA2 would be the high one (3.4 to 5.0 V at full throttle).
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Old 07-29-2012, 10:18 PM   #10
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Awight, so apparently I need the D3 pins. Should I PM you for shipping/purchasing them?

Also, Pin 40 on the ECM is the second hole from the end right? If so, it is taken by a blue wire, which is connected to Pin 6 of AD4 up under the dashboard, according to DIY Guide you wrote.

So what do I do with that blue wire? Take it out? The guide says tap onto it with the ECM A4 connector but I'm not real sure how. Any advice?
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Old 07-29-2012, 10:38 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CodyTheBody View Post
Awight, so apparently I need the D3 pins. Should I PM you for shipping/purchasing them?

Also, Pin 40 on the ECM is the second hole from the end right? If so, it is taken by a blue wire, which is connected to Pin 6 of AD4 up under the dashboard, according to DIY Guide you wrote.

So what do I do with that blue wire? Take it out? The guide says tap onto it with the ECM A4 connector but I'm not real sure how. Any advice?
Yes, you can PM me.

If your 09 sedan doesn't have the power package, then it makes sense that you have the ECM pin populated, but not the d3 pins. The easiest method to make the connection is to use a tap splice connector, which you slide over the wire, slip the connecting wire in, and squeeze it with a pair of pliers.
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Old 07-29-2012, 11:01 PM   #12
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Yeah, I bought some of those splices as well.

Ok, sorry man for all the questions; just making sure I get this right. I slide the tap splice over the existing blue wire in Pin 40, then connect the new A21 wire into the splice then squeeze and then carry on to connecting A21 to D3, right? Wanna get it right the first time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
Yes, you can PM me.

If your 09 sedan doesn't have the power package, then it makes sense that you have the ECM pin populated, but not the d3 pins. The easiest method to make the connection is to use a tap splice connector, which you slide over the wire, slip the connecting wire in, and squeeze it with a pair of pliers.
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Old 07-29-2012, 11:58 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by CodyTheBody View Post
Yeah, I bought some of those splices as well.

Ok, sorry man for all the questions; just making sure I get this right. I slide the tap splice over the existing blue wire in Pin 40, then connect the new A21 wire into the splice then squeeze and then carry on to connecting A21 to D3, right? Wanna get it right the first time.
Correct. And, then the other d3 pin gets connected to ground.
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Old 08-02-2012, 11:45 AM   #14
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I finally got around to installing the parts I ordered from CTScott and they worked a treat!

I noticed the stalk can be very easily scratched, so you might want to leave the plastic bag on until the installation is complete. If you do accidentally scratch it, a little PlastX will have the scratch buffed out in no time. Also, when CTScott says the Torx T30 screws are tight...he is not just joking. Be sure to use a T30 driver that you can put a great deal of force on - a Multi Tool or an L Key won't work as you're sure to break either the tool or your skin.

Thanks again :)
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Old 08-08-2012, 11:04 AM   #15
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Thank again. Worked like a charm! CTScott, u r the man. Thanks bud!
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Old 08-08-2012, 11:06 AM   #16
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Actually, one more question. Does the "Passenger Air Bag" light near the middle A/C vents always stay on? Or did I screw something up? If there's a problem with the driver air bag, another indicator light will come on in the dashboard cluster next to the speedometer right?
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Old 08-08-2012, 12:41 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by CodyTheBody View Post
Actually, one more question. Does the "Passenger Air Bag" light near the middle A/C vents always stay on? Or did I screw something up? If there's a problem with the driver air bag, another indicator light will come on in the dashboard cluster next to the speedometer right?
The passenger one is typically always on (Either with airbag on or airbag off being illuminated steady). If it flashes then their is an issue. If you didn't properly connect the steering wheel airbag then the light on the cluster would stay illuminated.
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Old 08-08-2012, 05:11 PM   #18
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Sweet. Thanks man!! You've been a big help! With my alloy rims instead of caps, cruise control and new tint, my non-power Yaris just got upgraded haha
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