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11-23-2013, 08:03 AM | #307 |
Drives: 2('14+'07)MT 3d ,wHandCrWndws! Join Date: May 2009
Location: S.MontgomeryCnty,TX(HoustonMSA) '07=BayouBlue=300,125miles=OrigOwnr '14=ClassicSilvr=29,059miles
Posts: 4,839
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Oh . Well, I assume all is correct re those bolts on my Yaris. When the manager saw the picture of the underside of your Yaris with the red circles you drew, he said something about that being it..that he could tell from the head of the bolt. I got the old bolts back (in my hands when I left), and driving = .
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12-01-2013, 09:36 PM | #308 |
Drives: soarer Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Beautiful British Columbia
Posts: 954
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Just got my bolts.. these are HUGE
Do you guys think I would be able to replace these using the ramps like below&? http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/pr...l#.Upvx6sSxf1Y Or shall I high jack each side separately so that there was no load on the wheel? Thx |
12-01-2013, 10:29 PM | #309 | |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
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12-02-2013, 01:09 AM | #310 |
Drives: soarer Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Beautiful British Columbia
Posts: 954
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^ Thanks
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12-14-2013, 03:24 PM | #311 |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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OK - This finally got me good. I decided to change the bolts on an 07 LB that I recently bought from someone in Ohio and I barley got the first one out without it snapping (and could not believe how bad it was). The second one snapped with barely any force applied, so I am now in the process of figuring out how to get it out.
In the meantime, here's a picture of the first one. The pile of stuff next to it came pouring out of its hole, once I removed the bolt. Control Arm Bolt - Rusted.jpg
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12-14-2013, 04:37 PM | #312 |
Drives: 06 Polar White 5dr, 13 Soul 4u Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Georgetown, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 5,761
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OMG that is nasty. Now I'm truly scared shitless to see what they look like on my '06. She's now entering her 9th winter.
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12-14-2013, 04:47 PM | #313 |
Drives: 2009, auto, 4dr LB Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: S.E. New England
Posts: 292
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This is exactly why I haven't attempted to replace these myself ".....so I am now in the process of figuring out how to get it out."
I check mine periodically to see if the bolt heads are still there and whenever the yari is at the dealer I ask them to check them, they always say they are fine. Of course I don't know what their "inspection" involves. Scott let us know what wizardary you employ to get that out. I would guess some drilling and a broken bolt extractor. Big extractor. One day I may slide under there with a breaker bar and give them a crack, I won't be doing it in my garage or driveway, I'll be doing it in the big chain parking lot adjacent to the dealer so if I shear one off, I'll be about 200 yards away. |
12-14-2013, 06:42 PM | #314 | |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
I tried dropping the subframe to give me access to the broken bolt, but that bolt jams the subframe into place, where I can not pry it off of the car. I am now working in the passenger foot well to gain access to the top of the bolt. I realized that the triangular plastic piece under the carpet is in about the correct place for the top of the bolt. Unfortunately the bolt is offset to the hole, where I can see it, but accessing it requires drilling a hole above it. I drilled a 3/4" access hole directly above it, as I realized with another one of the bolts that a 12mm socket grips the taper of the top of the bolt. Unfortunately though the 12mm pops off when you apply serious torque, so I think my next attempt will be a bolt extractor from above.
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12-14-2013, 08:48 PM | #315 | |
Drives: 2('14+'07)MT 3d ,wHandCrWndws! Join Date: May 2009
Location: S.MontgomeryCnty,TX(HoustonMSA) '07=BayouBlue=300,125miles=OrigOwnr '14=ClassicSilvr=29,059miles
Posts: 4,839
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Quote:
The head of the bolt, at least in some cases, doesn't seem to tell the whole story. This leads me to think that the only way to thoroughly check them is to remove them.....and if you're going to do that, or have it done, they might as well be replaced with new ones. |
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12-14-2013, 09:52 PM | #316 |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
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^Indeed. The heads on both of these looked fine, which is why I gave them a go.
I finally broken the sub frame free. The only thing holding it was the bond between the bolt and its metal sleeve on the A arm. A couple hours of PB Blaster, pounding, prying, torching, and bleeding and it suddenly popped free. Tomorrow I will weld a nut onto the bolt and see if I can free it. Control Arm Bolt - Broken.jpg
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12-14-2013, 11:10 PM | #317 |
Drives: 08 Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Toronto
Posts: 301
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^^^^^^ dam!! I sure hope the tsb that what done my yaris a couple of years ago resolved this issue...
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12-14-2013, 11:56 PM | #318 |
Drives: 2('14+'07)MT 3d ,wHandCrWndws! Join Date: May 2009
Location: S.MontgomeryCnty,TX(HoustonMSA) '07=BayouBlue=300,125miles=OrigOwnr '14=ClassicSilvr=29,059miles
Posts: 4,839
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^^^^^ Wow, that is quite a sight. Better if the break hadn't happened at all, but thank goodness it didn't happen while the 'Ohio owner' was driving the car (we all know it wouldn't happen if you decided to drive it for even a week before selling it.....would have to meet your standard first).
Last edited by nookandcrannycar; 12-15-2013 at 12:07 AM. |
12-15-2013, 11:36 AM | #319 |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
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Welding on a nut worked like a charm. The broken bolt is now out.
While searching for some info on how Toyota deals with the broken ones I ran into a case where someone had one replaced before the TSB, and they paid for 7 hours of labor (over $600) and $10 for the bolt. I can definitely understand they labor part after dealing with this myself. Here's the big nut welded on: Welded Nut.jpg And, here's the broken bolt, finally freed: Bolt Out.jpg
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12-15-2013, 11:38 AM | #320 |
Drives: 2009, auto, 4dr LB Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: S.E. New England
Posts: 292
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What a nightmare this entire issue is.
I realize the problem lies beneath the bolt head. Unfortunately I have neither the inclination nor expertise to jack or ramp up my car and take a swing at these things. Look at what Scott just went through, I was sweating bullets when I was splicing into wires for my keyless entry for fear I would screw something up . I just went through a front brake job where the inside of the rotors were awful. I have no doubt in my mind my bolts are corroding and for now I just have to rely on the dealership to tell me they are ok. Months ago I thought of contacting Scott and suggesting, when he generously offered his garage and services for a get together, that I would order and buy pairs of bolts for those who would come and wanted that done, interest waned so I never did. Imagine if it had worked out and what happened with Scott's recent bolt adventure had happened to another member. I am grateful none of it ever took place, I for one would have felt terrible about it. I think once the originals are out and new ones are in, I would then replace them every year, fiquring the odds of them not shearing off were now in my favor, but the first ones, no thanks. Last edited by NEexpat; 12-15-2013 at 12:03 PM. |
12-15-2013, 11:48 AM | #321 |
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^Exactly. I suspect that everyone who lives where salt is used on the roads is in exactly the same situation. Replacing them yearly truly makes sense.
After spending many hours under there I also now understand where the seam sealant needs to be applied to reduce the water entry and will post a DIY on that as well. Seam sealing will not completely eliminate the issue, but it will definitely help, as there is a pocket above the subframe that can collect water and then drip it into the bolt's sleeve.
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12-15-2013, 03:38 PM | #322 |
Drives: 2('14+'07)MT 3d ,wHandCrWndws! Join Date: May 2009
Location: S.MontgomeryCnty,TX(HoustonMSA) '07=BayouBlue=300,125miles=OrigOwnr '14=ClassicSilvr=29,059miles
Posts: 4,839
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A-ha...I imagine this might be a contributing factor as to why I had rust (given my very low exposure to snow/ice/road salt and large exposure to a lot of rain per storm).
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12-15-2013, 11:21 PM | #323 |
Drives: 08 Yaris sedan auto / Fit auto Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: northeast
Posts: 2,897
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Toyota needs to make it mandatory . They won't because a T.S.B. saves them money . The past 5 years has diminished our faith in Toyota . Before that we were avid fans .
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12-15-2013, 11:51 PM | #324 | |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
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Quote:
The difference in corrosion between the 2007 100K+ mile California Yaris that I recently parted out and this 2007 70K mile Ohio Yaris is incredible. Recently I was chatting with a guy who works for the CT highway department and he was telling me about how bad the trucks that spray the road chemicals disintegrate in a single season, and it is just plain scary.
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