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12-16-2013, 02:24 AM | #325 | |
Drives: 2('14+'07)MT 3d ,wHandCrWndws! Join Date: May 2009
Location: S.MontgomeryCnty,TX(HoustonMSA) '07=BayouBlue=300,125miles=OrigOwnr '14=ClassicSilvr=29,059miles
Posts: 4,839
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12-16-2013, 02:38 AM | #326 |
Drives: 2('14+'07)MT 3d ,wHandCrWndws! Join Date: May 2009
Location: S.MontgomeryCnty,TX(HoustonMSA) '07=BayouBlue=300,125miles=OrigOwnr '14=ClassicSilvr=29,059miles
Posts: 4,839
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Currently on the 'story wheel' on the Yahoo home page ----- 2014 Audi R8 Convertible and a fleet of 1984 Audi 4000 Quatros having fun on 600 acres --- in the snow. I wonder what the fleet of '84s look like underneath?????
http://autos.yahoo.com/blogs/motoram...173509726.html |
12-16-2013, 11:12 PM | #327 |
Drives: 2005 Toyota Echo Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Brampton, ON
Posts: 505
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I posted in one of these control arm bolt threads, soon after I got my Echo, and called out an OP on them. Now I've got my tail inbetween my legs. I've had a few bolts snap on me that should not have ever snapped - the worst two being the thermostat housing *studs*.
Basically it's horrendously cheap quality metal. Anyone else have trouble with bolts snapping due to poor quality metal on their Yaris? Given my experience with my Echo, and then reading this thread and the TSB's out there for the issue... is coming close to ticking the Yaris off my "next car" list...
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2006 Saturn Ion Redline 2005 Toyota Echo RS 4dr hatch - Cyl #3 bad - sold 2000 Toyota Echo 2dr coupe - The track car - rusty & scrapped |
12-17-2013, 02:58 AM | #328 | |
Drives: 2('14+'07)MT 3d ,wHandCrWndws! Join Date: May 2009
Location: S.MontgomeryCnty,TX(HoustonMSA) '07=BayouBlue=300,125miles=OrigOwnr '14=ClassicSilvr=29,059miles
Posts: 4,839
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12-17-2013, 07:08 AM | #329 | |
Drives: 2005 Toyota Echo Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Brampton, ON
Posts: 505
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Probably the best example was with my old 92 Nissan NX2000 that I had before my Echo (which I bought in 2010), meaning the NX was 18 years old at the time, I was able to get control arms bolts, header bolts (at the motor and collector), and some others out reasonably well. No snapping, just breaker barring it out. The car had around 180k at the time and was winter driven by the previous owner.
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2006 Saturn Ion Redline 2005 Toyota Echo RS 4dr hatch - Cyl #3 bad - sold 2000 Toyota Echo 2dr coupe - The track car - rusty & scrapped |
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12-17-2013, 10:17 AM | #330 | |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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12-17-2013, 10:31 AM | #331 | |
Yaris beginner
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I have no idea what they put on the roads here in Germany but I sure hope it's not as aggressive as what they put on yours!! |
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12-17-2013, 12:31 PM | #332 |
Drives: 08 Yaris sedan auto / Fit auto Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: northeast
Posts: 2,897
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Never had this issue with cars of the past . Would go 250,000+ miles and no bolts for suspension would fail . Struts and other related parts , yes , that's expected . Poor design of the control arm . Who supplies those to Toyota ? Subarus and other manufacturers have the same problem .
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01-02-2014, 12:26 AM | #333 | |
Drives: 2005 Toyota Echo Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Brampton, ON
Posts: 505
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One bolt that was memorable was the bolt that bolted the two rear lateral links (control arms) onto the spindle. I needed to use a 2 foot breaker bar and a 4 foot pipe on an impact socket and *REALLY* needed to put my weight into it.. and I'm over 200lbs. There was at least 500ft lbs of torque going into that 1/2" bolt and it survived fine. Referencing this thread in particular, even though these front LCA bolts aren't even getting much shear load, mainly tension they're still snapping... which really makes me think it's a metal quality issue. And my thermostat housing stud snapping issue I just had is another example...
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2006 Saturn Ion Redline 2005 Toyota Echo RS 4dr hatch - Cyl #3 bad - sold 2000 Toyota Echo 2dr coupe - The track car - rusty & scrapped |
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01-10-2014, 01:06 AM | #334 |
Drives: 2008 Hatch Red Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 66
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Finally got around to replacing my bolts today. Old ones came right out (with a long cheater bar) and still looked very good. Appeared to have only minor surface rust. I am in Southern CA and am sure that has a lot to do with the condition of the bolts. I will most likely not need to worry about this again. If I didn't have the new bolts ready to go, I would have most likely re installed the old ones. Thanks for everyone's input on this issue.
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02-10-2014, 06:37 PM | #335 |
Drives: 2009, auto, 4dr LB Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: S.E. New England
Posts: 292
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Back to this again,
Let's say, hypothetically, that there was a Yaris owner out there who was relatively certain that his/her lower control arm bolts were corroding. Based mostly on the four season climate this person lived in complete with salted winter roads. And that this person is not at all happy with the the "reactive" attitude Toyota and subsequently their dealers are taking with this issue. Not replacing the bolts forthwith rather waiting till the customer complains of a "thunk" noise when going over a bump. Lets say for instance that this Yaris owner wanted to be a little more "proactive" and he or she wanted to see if they could remove these bolts themselves, and if successful replace them with new bolts. Is there anything these bolts should be "dressed" with? As well as any additional sealing around the bolt hole above on the inside of the control arm. Asking for a friend. Cheers |
02-10-2014, 08:06 PM | #336 | |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
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If "your friend" gets them out successfully "your friend" will want to seal the seams per the TSB (see the images below). I also recommend coating the bolts with something (either a heavy grease or anti-seize compound). You can pick up caulk gun tubes of seam sealant at most auto parts stores. Here is where the TSB shows to seal the seams Seam Seal 3.jpg And, here is a picture of the chassis. The red lines show the three seams to seal on each side. With the subframe in place it is very difficult to see these areas, so this picture is of a stripped chassis. Seam Seal 4.jpg
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02-10-2014, 08:59 PM | #337 |
Drives: 2009, auto, 4dr LB Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: S.E. New England
Posts: 292
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Thanks Scott,
I be sure to ummm pass this information along. |
03-31-2014, 08:39 PM | #338 |
Drives: 08 Yaris sedan auto / Fit auto Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: northeast
Posts: 2,897
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CT, if one or both of the bushings around the horizontal bolt (s) are bad, could it be a safety concern and still be the source of the crunch/creak with all the new parts ? Parts listed here, http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50701 Maybe we should change our user name to Captain Crunch. .
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03-31-2014, 09:18 PM | #339 | |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
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03-31-2014, 09:36 PM | #340 |
Drives: 08 Yaris sedan auto / Fit auto Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: northeast
Posts: 2,897
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No new arm(s) were installed . Still the original with 72,000+ miles . Could the surrounding material inside the steel bushing deteriorate from salt , road conditions ( pot holes , etc. ) and other reasons ?
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03-31-2014, 09:54 PM | #341 |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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They could potentially, but on the one where I had disintegrated vertical bolts, the horizontal ones were fine. When they dropped your subframe they would have had to remove the control arms to do so, so if they were in bad shape they should have noticed.
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03-31-2014, 09:57 PM | #342 |
Drives: 08 Yaris sedan auto / Fit auto Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: northeast
Posts: 2,897
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Or maybe not . Never was mentioned .
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