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06-09-2013, 11:44 PM | #19 |
Drives: 2007 Yaris 4-door Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 18
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I haven't actually looked for the EGR valve yet, so not sure there is one. The A/C works fine and now after doing a procedure that CTScott had me do, it now idles with the A/C on. I could flush out the fuel lines but the car does run fine past the 1000 rpm range for the most part.
I am ordering a scanner which will do much more than just a reader. I am hoping that will save me in the long run. Cheers, |
06-09-2013, 11:59 PM | #20 | |
Drives: 2008 HB Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 7
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There is a fuel filter, this is from another thread:
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06-12-2013, 04:00 PM | #21 |
Drives: 2007 Yaris 4-door Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 18
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Hi Absolutely Red,
Thanks for the input, however I have had the pump assembly out a couple of times during all of this. I have replaced the sending unit and checked everything over. I do however want to order the fuel filter, but there seems to be quite a few on-line shops selling it. I found the part at Rock Auto for $22.99. I hope it is the correct part. I am also still having the P171 codes, so haven't been able to clear them yet. The car is driving better, but still has hesitation when first pressing throttle pedal. It does run fine with the A/C on now so that is a big help. Since the P171 code is a lean code, I am hoping the fuel filter will take care of that. But still also having some issues on engine start up where the starter keeps turning when I let go of the key. This doesn't seem to be a problem when the car starts normally. So with that code there is still a chance of a fuel supply issue or a vacuum leak. Does anyone have a diagram of where all of the vacuum lines are located? Is there a vacuum tree where it all comes together? From topside I see nothing. Everyone has been great with all of the information, and now I am hoping I am finally almost finished so this baby can be put back on the road as a daily driver. Thanks again. Cheers, Howster |
06-12-2013, 04:20 PM | #22 |
Drives: 2008 HB, A/T, Power W/L/M Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: LI, New Yawk
Posts: 2,063
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It's normal for the starter motor to do that. It's a little odd at first, but that's part of the Yaris' charm
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Never take eyes off opponent - Bruce Lee |
06-26-2013, 03:21 PM | #23 |
Drives: 2007 Yaris 4-door Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 18
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I was wondering if anyone has the specifications for fuel trims and O2 info for a 2007 Yaris? I am still having issues and purchased a Innova 3130C scanner. I just don't have a baseline for anything so don't have a starting point.
Now the only problem I am having is mainly hesitation on acceleration from a stop, but also sometimes at speed. Transmission seems to stumble when trying to go into passing gear. It seemed to run better for a while when I put a new MAF sensor in it, and the hesitation was pretty much gone. However that lasted not very long. I now have the original back in. I have replaced the fuel filter, along with parts mentioned in earlier posts. Only thing I can think of now is vacuum lines and fuel pressure, although I don't know what the pressure should be. If anyone has an idea that would be sweet. So many have helped with this and I am still dealing with this since I am not able to work on it except for the weekends. I would appreciate any info anyone can help with. Thanks again, Howster |
06-26-2013, 03:50 PM | #24 | |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
Fuel pressure should be about 41 psi. For a completely stock Yaris the fuel trims should stay pretty close to zero. On my red 08, they stay within the +/- 2 range.
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06-26-2013, 08:44 PM | #25 |
Drives: 2007 Yaris 4-door Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 18
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Thanks for that CTScott. Do you happen to have any of the other baseline parameters I need to check things like STFT and LTFT? I am still trying to diagnose if I might have a faulty O2 sensor, but I don't know the parameters for any of this. I guess I can purchase a manual, however once I have this repaired we were going to sell it anyway.
I can't in good conscience sell a car or anything for that matter that is suspect. Never have and I won't start now. The 3130C is a very nice scanner, but if I don't have any parameters, as far as I am concerned it is just a glorified code reader, and I already have one of those. I appreciate as always any assistance and am hoping to sort this out ASAP. BTW, is there a vacuum tree someone where all of the vacuum lines meet for all the various systems? I know my Fords always had that. Here is what has been replaced on the Yaris to date. BATTERY Fuel Sending Unit Fuel Filter and lower retainer ( I broke the retainer by accident). Oil Spark Plugs O-rings and caps on all injectors. PCV valve. and hose I did purchase a new MAF sensor, but after a couple of days it didn't seem to correct any of the problems I was having. I reinstalled the original one. Also, I did as suggested and disconnected the battery terminals and touched them together for 10-20 seconds to reset the ECM. Once I did that, and I have done that twice since this all began, the car eventually was running pretty darn well. But I was still getting the P0171 codes and they are still coming back. This even when the new MAF was installed. Sometimes I don't get the code for a full day of driving and sometimes it shows up in an hour. The car does not get driven regularly because we have other vehicles until this gets resolved. I will go ahead and check the vacuum lines more closely and replace anything that looks suspect. I did read where the EVAP system can cause this problem, however I am not familiar with that system at all. What can anyone tell me as far as checking that out? Thanks again to all. I anxiously await any information and once the car is up and running normally I promise I will drink a beer for each person that has assisted. So far I will be one drunk bastard. Cheers to all. Howster |
06-26-2013, 09:07 PM | #26 |
Drives: 2007 Yaris 4-door Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 18
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I just took the 3130C out to the car again and noticed the STFT is within tolerance, which is well under 10. However the LTFT is at 36 and goes up to around 43 at times when I push the throttle. This is from what I have found out to be a for-sure problem. Any hints on what to check now? Maybe it is as simple as a vacuum leak and I just need to replace all of the lines. Couldn't hurt I guess. What say all?
Cheers, Howster |
06-26-2013, 09:08 PM | #27 |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Here's a cap of a normal run. You can actually grab the service manual via the Micro Image forum: http://www.microimageonline.com/foru...32-YARIS-FILES
Data Cap.jpg
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06-26-2013, 09:15 PM | #28 | |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
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06-26-2013, 09:17 PM | #29 |
Drives: 2007 Yaris 4-door Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 18
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Hi. No I haven't yet but I will check that this weekend. Thanks for the table as well. Would you look at vacuum leaks first or look at the exhaust manifold?
Cheers, Howster |
06-26-2013, 09:19 PM | #30 |
Drives: 2007 Yaris 4-door Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 18
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So CTScott,
What does that LTFT look like to you as opposed to the STFT? What other items on the chart you sent to me would I need to look at as priorities? This scanner is still new to me so still learning. Cheers, Howster |
06-26-2013, 09:32 PM | #31 | |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
I would also watch the 02 sensor lambda and the injection volume. The Yaris has very little as far as vacuum hoses go, so I would take a peek at them before the exhaust.
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07-04-2013, 07:33 PM | #32 |
Drives: 2007 Yaris 4-door Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 18
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Will be checking for leaks this weekend. I am so over this as I have done all I have been taught and trained to do over the past 35 years. I guess I don't know as much as I thought about these cars. I repaired all of the obvious stuff, but just wasn't sure where all of the vacuum hoses were. I will take a look and see what happens. I will get some leak check and cross my fingers.
Thanks again CTScott |
07-06-2013, 12:56 AM | #33 |
Drives: 2007 Yaris 4-door Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 18
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Hey CTScott,
One more thing I forgot to mention. The car is also very hard to start. If I use starting fluid, it will usually fire right up, however if it sits for a little while, I have to spray inside the filter box again to start it. Is this a problem also caused by a vacuum leak? I am kind of going around in circles now. I will be checking for leaks with leak detector fluid, but after that I am lost. Thanks, |
07-06-2013, 05:00 PM | #34 |
Drives: 2007 Yaris 4-door Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 18
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Hey CTScott,
Some things happened I had not tried before so updating you to see what I can do next. First, I did notate all of the fields that my scanner can see, and I will list them when I get home. I checked for leaks by spraying throttle body cleaner at the intake and exhaust where I could, as well as any vacuum lines I could find. I didn't find anything. I decided to give it WOT with the scanner connected and what happens is well, pretty much nothing. Well nothing in a good way. The engine really kind of bogs down and if I keep it down it will start to sputter and pop, like it is backfiring. I don't let it get loud, but I did notice the scanner is all over the place. Initial acceleration is hesitant, and then if I keep it down it bogs and sputters and misses. If I get it gradual throttle then it revs pretty much ok. There is also the problem of the car not wanting to start. I end up spraying starting fluid in the intake and it starts right up. Once warm it seems to start ok. This to me points to a fuel pump as maybe it just isn't putting enough pressure to start it up initially. I don't know how to check the fuel pressure because there isn't a place to check it with a gauge. My scanner doesn't read fuel pressure I don't think.. My next step I guess is to take it to the Toyota dealership and have them check out the damn thing. I think I have exhusted all options unless I chage an O2 sensor or something like that. My scanner says they are good, but what does it know? Any tips from what I have told you here would be great. Thanks again. Howster |
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