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07-29-2021, 01:54 PM | #19 |
Drives: VERSO S Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Bromsgrove
Posts: 44
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Can some one pls upload a video on youtube please7
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08-30-2021, 05:44 PM | #20 | |
Drives: 2009 yaris Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: poughkeepsie ny
Posts: 48
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Quote:
You hit the nail right on the head. That is exactly what needs to be done... It hardly ever happens anymore though, as I have "become one" with my car and can anticipate immediately when it will happen and immediately step on the clutch and save it before it croaks and retry just as you described. I don't think it has happened in a year actually where it would stall at a light. I am convinced that the ecu keeps trimming leaner and leaner if you drive very light most of the time, and a lean idle will make it easy for the engine to stall at a light. I know it runs lean because I can hear the knocking/pinging (detonation) when I catch and save it before it stalls. I noticed that if I drove a bit heavier regularly, it wouldn't happen anymore. I'd get pissed off after a stall and then beat on it a bit and it would then not stall for a while. hehe.. They say detonation is bad, and I agree, but I've detonated hundreds of times pretty harshly and got nothing broken. Changing my clutch also made a difference. My oem clutch was shuddering and slipping despite so few miles, and I replaced it with a Valeo and resurfaced the flywheel a couple of years ago. I think I have a thread on it here or the other place. A smooth clutch and flywheel will have a smoother engagement and help out at stops. I have since removed that plastic wedge I made on the pedal because I saw that my ultragauge registered a difference in pedal position with it in there vs without, even though rpms didn't change. Forgot to mention that when you start stalling a lot at lights, an ecu reset will help. Disconnect the negative battery terminal for a few minutes and reconnect. Watch how it will be a while before it stalls again. This is because ecu will be running richer until it learns its limits of leaning. You can make it relearn your driving style. That was also something that convinced me the stalling was mostly a lean fuel condition learned by the ecu by mostly easy-driving people like me. Last edited by mirageman; 08-30-2021 at 05:52 PM. Reason: Forgot to mention last paragraph |
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11-30-2022, 03:34 AM | #21 | |
Drives: Yaris 1.0 VVTi Join Date: Nov 2022
Location: Watford
Posts: 11
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Quote:
Another unearthing here as Google had served me well! I have exactly this problem and for the life of me cannot solve it. I'm quite mechanically minded and there are no faults stored, but at idle it seems it idles too low and if i press the accelerator down it hiccups then accelerates. I've got an odd feeling the bank 1 lambda sensor or MAP sensor may be faulty, but again no faults are being read... any advice please, TIA |
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12-10-2022, 02:47 AM | #22 | |
Drives: NCP90 TRD Yaris Manual Join Date: Oct 2022
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 267
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Quote:
MAF sensor vid https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dFKSEisixfU throttle body vid https://youtu.be/JcY65GtrJo8?t=41 And pcv valve cleaning vid https://youtu.be/MCYdHHR1dxg |
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12-13-2022, 11:48 AM | #23 | |
Drives: Yaris 1.0 VVTi Join Date: Nov 2022
Location: Watford
Posts: 11
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Thanks pal, tried all these and still the same :(
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12-16-2022, 06:22 PM | #24 |
Drives: NCP90 TRD Yaris Manual Join Date: Oct 2022
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 267
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" Quite common problem - unstable or too low idle speed, sometimes supplemented by power loss at medium speed. There are not definite cause and universal solution, but these engines like cleanness - washing of the throttle body, ISCV, MAF-sensor, PCV valve may have an effect. However, the owners overly fixated on the washing, forgetting that sometimes ISCV, MAF, ignition coil or VVT actuator just have to be changed."
from the engine manual. So next is to clean idle control valve, and throttle body if you didnt do that one already. After that im afraid you need a friend with the same cay to try swap parts to see which fixes it...Or a really cool scrappy who will let you do that and then buy the parts you need. If you can find a crashed one, buy them one at a time, have the guy mark them so you can rerturn it if it doesnt help. they are easy to install so could do it at the wreckers shop. Problem is it could be any of those things listed. So you cant tell till you swap them out one at a time ansd see which fixes it. Start with the chepest on the list and work your way forward. Also the coils can be tested and you can probably look up what they should be at to see if they are weak, would be strange tho that all four are weak. |
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