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11-14-2009, 11:58 PM | #19 |
Drives: Yaris 08 Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Québec
Posts: 104
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No problem guys.
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11-15-2009, 09:14 PM | #20 |
What?
Drives: 2007 Yaris LB Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Safety Harbor, FL
Posts: 1,006
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Damn, I'm gonna have to give this a try.
It shouldn't affect ride height at all, btw. Ride height is set with the spring height between the spring perches and this won't change that. It just changes the "static" angle of the beam axle assembly, presumably to a more favorable angle for a lowered car. Basically, it should make whatever effects are designed into the movement of the beam axle (anti-squat, dynamic toe, etc) that are optimized to work at stock ride height... be more optimal for a car that's lowered. It's got to be a good thing. |
11-15-2009, 09:16 PM | #21 |
Drives: '14 GT86, '08 Vitz Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Central Valley, CA
Posts: 9,873
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How easy would it be to move it to the said point?
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11-15-2009, 09:25 PM | #22 |
Apexing Egg!!
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wow... crazy! good find.
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HighTach Motorsports 2007 Toyota Yaris-ARGH!! Mods: Tokico HTS, 6.6 kg F, 6.1 kg R custom springs, 23 mm RSB, 2-way TRD LSD, 15x7 +25 Team Dynamic wheels, 195/55/15 Dunlop Star Specs, Cobra Suzuka S |
11-15-2009, 09:47 PM | #23 |
What?
Drives: 2007 Yaris LB Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Safety Harbor, FL
Posts: 1,006
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I'd guess that it would require removing the bottom shock bolts to decompress the spring. Then just removing the two pivot bolts, moving the axle assembly down, putting the pivot bolts back in, and putting the shock bolts back in.
Should be as easy as pie. (Mmmmmm... pie!) |
11-15-2009, 10:11 PM | #24 | |
Slowy getting there
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Quote:
Actually you are moving the front of the rear axle up. I did this on a car lift with lift stands and air tools took about 30 mins to an hour. Probably about 2 hours laying on the ground. This mod completely changed the way my car rotates. I would have to say this is great for people that track or auto-x their cars.
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11-15-2009, 10:17 PM | #25 |
Slowy getting there
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Here are the pics that I snapped. You can see where the bolt was before by how clean it was under it. Don't say anything about the dirty car I washed it right after I took these. Sorry they are so big I didn't resize because I wanted to make sure you could see what I was talking about.
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11-15-2009, 10:32 PM | #26 | |
Drives: Yaris 08 Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Québec
Posts: 104
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Quote:
This is the toyota procedure ;) Last edited by Maitre_Te_Te; 11-15-2009 at 11:00 PM. |
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11-15-2009, 10:40 PM | #27 |
What?
Drives: 2007 Yaris LB Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Safety Harbor, FL
Posts: 1,006
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Yes, that makes sense. Torquing the pivot bolts with the suspension drooped will cause the bushings to be preloaded when you set the car down.
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11-15-2009, 10:49 PM | #28 |
Slowy getting there
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Good point I will have to take my bolts loose again and retorque them...
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11-20-2009, 05:47 AM | #29 |
Drives: Yaris Sedan 5MT Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: SoCal
Posts: 865
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Bump!
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11-20-2009, 08:37 AM | #30 |
Drives: 2008 xD Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Boston
Posts: 16
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I thought more people would be trying this! Hopefully I will be doing this tomorrow afternoon to my xD.
lilredrocket, any tips for this or is it as simple as it seems? |
11-20-2009, 11:47 AM | #31 |
Reluctantly Crouched...
Drives: 2008 Yaris HB M/T Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 867
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I did it. Super easy. I put the car on jack stands at the rear jack points, used floor jacks to support the weight of the axle and keep the springs from fighting me, and removed the rear wheels, both for weight reduction and access.
You need a 17mm socket with either a breaker bar or an impact wrench to loosen it. It has loctite from the factory, so I'd have some handy for the re-install. The swap is really easy, but a small prybar or big screwdriver will aid in lining-up the holes, which is the hardest part of the process. Take your time and wiggle the arm around till you can get a thread started, then you're home free. I forgot the exact torque spec, but you want it on there really good, 90-100 ft/lbs, maybe? (I'll check that # tonight and edit this post.) That's it. Took me 30 minutes total, working alone. |
11-20-2009, 12:12 PM | #32 |
Drives: Yaris sedan 2009 Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: beTHESDA
Posts: 25
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wow good one Maitre_Te_Te
just step out check yes its on the sedan |
11-20-2009, 12:21 PM | #33 |
Reluctantly Crouched...
Drives: 2008 Yaris HB M/T Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 867
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Clarification, please: Are you saying it is better to torque the bolts while the suspension is unloaded, or after the car is on the ground in order to preload the bushings?
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11-20-2009, 12:27 PM | #34 |
Drives: 2008 xD Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Boston
Posts: 16
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ozmdd, have you taken it out yet? How does it feel?
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11-20-2009, 02:05 PM | #35 |
Reluctantly Crouched...
Drives: 2008 Yaris HB M/T Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 867
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Yes, but havent' been able to push it hard yet. It definitely feels better - more planted - on the turn-in. Not sure if it altered the effective spring rate or preload on the spring, although it seems like it would a little.
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11-20-2009, 03:32 PM | #36 |
What?
Drives: 2007 Yaris LB Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Safety Harbor, FL
Posts: 1,006
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You want to torque either on the ground or with the suspension otherwise supporting the weight of the car. (on ramps, suspension on a jack or jackstand, etc) If you torque with the suspension drooped, when you put the weight on the car, there will be a twisting load on the bushings which can cause the rear of the car to sit artificially high and/or damage the bushings over time.
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