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07-08-2011, 11:05 PM | #19 |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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To install an AFR gauge with sensor, you need to drill and tap, or weld a bung onto the down pipe to mount the gauge's sensor.
I am using NGK Iridium 1X plugs (BKR7EIX-11), which is what Cammell used with it. Iridiums are pre-gapped and aren't supposed to be adjusted, so I left them at their 1.1mm gap (which actually meets the OEM gap spec of 1.0 to 1.1 mm)
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07-09-2011, 11:25 AM | #20 |
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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You should absolutely have a boost, AFR, and water temp gauge when going FI. You're gonna need something to read codes as well, otherwise you're left guessing. I'd grab an oil pressure gauge as well. I know it's tempting to cut corners, but you can't be too safe when it comes to monitoring an engine converted to FI.
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07-09-2011, 12:15 PM | #21 |
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Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canoga Park, CA
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^ You don't have to weld a bung if that's a problem in your area. AEM has a solution for that.
http://www.aemelectronics.com/no-wel...unt-2-inch-660
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Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific. |
07-09-2011, 05:51 PM | #22 | |
Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: NJ
Posts: 792
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Quote:
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07-09-2011, 05:54 PM | #23 | |
Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: NJ
Posts: 792
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Quote:
Garm that's perfect, thanks! I'm not sure where to tap for the AFR, but if it's in the mid-pipe, mine is 2.25" and that looks like it only goes as wide as 2". |
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07-09-2011, 06:53 PM | #24 |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
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The AFR sensor needs to go somewhere before the cat.
BTW, the scangauge can't measure oil pressure on the Yaris, since it just has an oil pressure switch, as opposed to a pressure sensor.
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07-09-2011, 07:57 PM | #25 |
Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: NJ
Posts: 792
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Gotcha. So AFR, possibly boost, and an oil pressure gauge then. Can I mount on of those A-pillar gauge pods on a car with SRS stamped on the OEM A-pillar?
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07-09-2011, 09:23 PM | #26 | |
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Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canoga Park, CA
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Quote:
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Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific. |
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07-09-2011, 10:30 PM | #27 |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
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You can mount on the A pillar. The airbag isn't actually under the pillar. The reason for the special clip with "SRS" on it is to keep the A pillar cover from becoming a projectile when the curtain airbag pops next to it.
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07-10-2011, 12:11 AM | #28 | |
Mr. 155 and climbing
Drives: Seriously Modded 07 Sedan Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: In The Hotbox
Posts: 4,742
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Quote:
Nathan will do you right if you wish to have someone do the work. My pillar is actually on his website. (Adrian) Tell him that I sent you. If you have him fabricate your pillar he is quick and he will also refab your passenger side so that it matches the driver's side which is a really nice touch.
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Team Tiamat Racing on Facebook Youtube Channel: Team Tiamat Racing Class record holder in Land Speed @ 154.5mph for 1.5 mile and 145.5mph in the mile in the F (2.016 to 3.014 L), G (1.524 to 2.015 L), and H (1.016 to 1.523 L) classes. |
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07-10-2011, 12:16 AM | #29 | |
Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: NJ
Posts: 792
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Quote:
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07-10-2011, 12:17 AM | #30 |
Mr. 155 and climbing
Drives: Seriously Modded 07 Sedan Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: In The Hotbox
Posts: 4,742
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^ Yes he does. I will take an "inside" pic for you tomorrow and PM you so you can check it out. I also edited my post.
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Team Tiamat Racing on Facebook Youtube Channel: Team Tiamat Racing Class record holder in Land Speed @ 154.5mph for 1.5 mile and 145.5mph in the mile in the F (2.016 to 3.014 L), G (1.524 to 2.015 L), and H (1.016 to 1.523 L) classes. |
07-10-2011, 12:19 AM | #31 |
Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: NJ
Posts: 792
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Great, thanks
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07-10-2011, 12:22 AM | #32 | |
Mr. 155 and climbing
Drives: Seriously Modded 07 Sedan Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: In The Hotbox
Posts: 4,742
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Quote:
Yup...it seems to work really well at least in my experience thus far.
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Team Tiamat Racing on Facebook Youtube Channel: Team Tiamat Racing Class record holder in Land Speed @ 154.5mph for 1.5 mile and 145.5mph in the mile in the F (2.016 to 3.014 L), G (1.524 to 2.015 L), and H (1.016 to 1.523 L) classes. |
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07-10-2011, 04:04 PM | #33 |
Drives: '08 Bayou Blue LB AT Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: West Hills, CA
Posts: 2,517
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I have a vacuum/boost gauge, wideband AFR, and oil pressure gauge. I went to a muffler shop and had them weld a bung for the AFR sensor. I'll send you pictures of the ghetto dash setup. :)
I just replied to your PM.
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07-10-2011, 04:27 PM | #34 |
Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: NJ
Posts: 792
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Thanks, Noogie. I ran into some serious problems after the install was complete, so unfortunately gauges are the least of my worries right now.
With the boost on or off, the car will not stay running unless I keep my foot on the throttle. If I let off the throttle, the RPMs nose-dive and the car stalls. When it is running, it sounds like it's sputtering/coughing/choking, like it's not getting enough gas. CTScott has been helping me troubleshoot via PM, but no luck so far. I checked and re-checked the throttle body, vacuum lines, and injectors and also put my old spark plugs back in and there was no change. There was also no change when I disconnected the fuel controller, eliminating the electrical portion of the supercharger. I'm at my wit's end, without a car, and ready to spend another whole day ripping this thing back out and praying that solves the problem, unless anyone else has a suggestion? I'm also not sure if there's a professional place in the Central/Shore NJ area I can even take the car to, to have them diagnose and possibly repair the problem. |
07-10-2011, 04:51 PM | #35 |
hey i tried to PM you this, but your inbox is full. Not to spam but...
you might want to go on www.microimageonline.com and post your problems on their forums. they have some members there that might be able to help you that dont come on this message board. as far as for me, im not sure what the problem is either. sorry |
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07-10-2011, 04:54 PM | #36 |
Drives: '08 Bayou Blue LB AT Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: West Hills, CA
Posts: 2,517
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Do you have a vacuum leak somewhere? I remember from years ago that my old Chevy would idle very rough due to a vacuum leak. It would only run when the throttle was pressed down.
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aFe Intake | Blitz Supercharger | Megan Header | TRD Exhaust | NST Pulley Set TRD Shocks/Struts | Tanabe NF210 Springs | TRD Sway Bar | Motegi TRAKLITE wheels | Kuhmo Ecsta XS R1 Concepts slotted rotors | Carbotech 1521 brake pads | stainless steel brake lines | Seibon vented carbon fiber hood |
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