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03-07-2009, 04:52 PM | #19 | |
I used to have 1700 posts
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Quote:
i mostly drive with the supercharger off since i dont have the right pulley. so unless u want a video of a video of a boosted yaris with the blower turned off, that is slower than a stock yaris i'll b glad to record that. NOT there is one more video i can upload though |
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03-07-2009, 05:35 PM | #20 | |
Well Noogie said that he left off Spacer B that is at the bottom of the blitz alternator bracket. We put it on and eyeballed it and the pulley from blitz did look out of line with the crank pulley. So we are taking off the spacer B and seeing if this works.
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Last edited by PETERPOOP; 03-07-2009 at 06:16 PM. |
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03-07-2009, 06:05 PM | #21 |
Drives: '08 Bayou Blue LB AT Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: West Hills, CA
Posts: 2,517
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Good to see that taking the alternator off was not a chore.
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aFe Intake | Blitz Supercharger | Megan Header | TRD Exhaust | NST Pulley Set TRD Shocks/Struts | Tanabe NF210 Springs | TRD Sway Bar | Motegi TRAKLITE wheels | Kuhmo Ecsta XS R1 Concepts slotted rotors | Carbotech 1521 brake pads | stainless steel brake lines | Seibon vented carbon fiber hood |
03-07-2009, 06:17 PM | #22 |
I am hating how these bolts aren't listed in the instructions and you have to guess for the majority of them on which are to be used where.
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03-07-2009, 06:22 PM | #23 |
Drives: '08 Bayou Blue LB AT Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: West Hills, CA
Posts: 2,517
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Yeah. KK had made a list of where each of them go. I eventually went to the auto parts store and bought a box of metric hardware. I ended up using some of it because I had used the wrong bolt and nut in another location.
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aFe Intake | Blitz Supercharger | Megan Header | TRD Exhaust | NST Pulley Set TRD Shocks/Struts | Tanabe NF210 Springs | TRD Sway Bar | Motegi TRAKLITE wheels | Kuhmo Ecsta XS R1 Concepts slotted rotors | Carbotech 1521 brake pads | stainless steel brake lines | Seibon vented carbon fiber hood |
03-07-2009, 06:27 PM | #24 |
Another install
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03-07-2009, 06:45 PM | #25 | |
Quote:
Was the wrong bolt the long one used BELOW the one where you didn't end up using spacer B? Because that bolt seems ridiculously long for that. |
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03-07-2009, 07:57 PM | #26 |
Still going..
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03-07-2009, 08:24 PM | #27 |
Drives: 2007 Yaris HB Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: my own little world
Posts: 1,256
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VIIIDDDDEEEEEOOOOOOOOOOOZZZZZZZZ-A
Peter unless I'm seeing things wrong I think that top alternator bolt is in the wrong hole in the bracket. I did the exact same thing, see the pic. Properly installed it goes in the other top hole (the red pointer), sorry i didn't get a shot of it on there the right way. Also maybe it's just the angle of your pic, but that a/c line looks awful close to making contact with the belt once its installed over the pulley on the compressor, it might be easier to secure them out of the way before the compressor goes on... I had to adjust mine afterwards and its a real b*itch even if you have skinny arms Lt Noogie is correct, I sent Garm an edited version of the instructions with the hardware issues clarified as well as I could. For example in the previous English instructions the steps refer to bolt numbers, but there are no numbers next to items in the parts list... so I numbered them by comparing them to the original Japanese booklet. Sorry, I don't have a copy here or I'd PM it to yuh. Last edited by kurokoma-kun; 03-07-2009 at 08:54 PM. |
03-07-2009, 09:19 PM | #28 |
Actually, that picture was from noogie's install. I believe we have it in the right spot. We are now having trouble with the middle bolt that goes in the manifold. It's impossible! Did you guys remove the fuel rail completely? Or just moved it around. We didn't remove the two bolts that were on the side of the fuel rail, just the ones in front. Didn't think it would have made a difference if we removed the ones on the side.
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03-07-2009, 09:36 PM | #29 | |
Drives: 2007 Yaris HB Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: my own little world
Posts: 1,256
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Quote:
Wrap a narrow strip of duct tape around the outer edge of nut, in the opposite direction of tightening, leaving a long tail of tape... you will stick this to the wrench handle. Wedge the taped nut into the flat end of wrench, insert into the space between fuel rail and manifold, place the nut over the stud and try to turn. After it catches even one thread, you can lift the tool straight up and off the nut. Then use it to press the flat surface of the nut while you pull off the tape strip--the action of pulling the tape off tightens the nut a couple more turns. Then you can get in there with the ratcheting end to finish tightening. Last edited by kurokoma-kun; 03-07-2009 at 09:51 PM. |
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03-07-2009, 09:44 PM | #30 |
K did that. Still going..
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03-07-2009, 10:28 PM | #31 |
Drives: '08 Bayou Blue LB AT Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: West Hills, CA
Posts: 2,517
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KK is right. You have the alternator little bracket in the wrong hole. If you go to Post #59 of my thread, you'll see that I had to drop it to the hole below.
I must be the only one who did not have a problem with that middle manifold nut. Keep going. Be strong.
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03-07-2009, 10:28 PM | #32 |
In the directions, it says to put 5 stud bolts into the compressor. It had the five holes circled. But there are six holes and they don't address to put a stud bolt in the sixth hole in the future steps. I was condering if you guys decided to put one in, or did you just do the five?
It's step 14 in (6) Manifold and Compressor Mounting |
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03-07-2009, 10:29 PM | #33 |
03-07-2009, 10:32 PM | #34 |
Drives: '08 Bayou Blue LB AT Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: West Hills, CA
Posts: 2,517
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There may be a stud that comes out of the intake manifold. I don't remember. Check it.
Nevermind. Step 15 tells you what to do with the last hole.
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aFe Intake | Blitz Supercharger | Megan Header | TRD Exhaust | NST Pulley Set TRD Shocks/Struts | Tanabe NF210 Springs | TRD Sway Bar | Motegi TRAKLITE wheels | Kuhmo Ecsta XS R1 Concepts slotted rotors | Carbotech 1521 brake pads | stainless steel brake lines | Seibon vented carbon fiber hood |
03-07-2009, 10:39 PM | #35 | |
Drives: 2007 Yaris HB Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: my own little world
Posts: 1,256
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Quote:
dayam I sure do wish I had those fixed up instruction to send you, or that Garm was here to do it oh yeah don't neglect to install that dipstick bracket like it says in the "hint" under step 16, it will save you headaches when it comes time to reinstall the dipstick |
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03-07-2009, 10:46 PM | #36 |
Drives: '08 Bayou Blue LB AT Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: West Hills, CA
Posts: 2,517
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We sound like a bunch of midwives.
Push! Push!
__________________
aFe Intake | Blitz Supercharger | Megan Header | TRD Exhaust | NST Pulley Set TRD Shocks/Struts | Tanabe NF210 Springs | TRD Sway Bar | Motegi TRAKLITE wheels | Kuhmo Ecsta XS R1 Concepts slotted rotors | Carbotech 1521 brake pads | stainless steel brake lines | Seibon vented carbon fiber hood |
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