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#19 |
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The Hated One
Drives: 07 White Manual Sedan Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Oregon,USA
Posts: 390
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lol...gimmic. sorry, but i have had dozens of customers come into my shop with optima batteries that have failed before a typical les shwaub battery(west coast chain store brand name) and those things are sh-t.
I have found there are only a couple of suppliers on the west coast with batteries that will actually last 5 years here, and where i live is very mild climate ussually. i have been running the factory battery with no problems for two years with a aftermarket head unit and over 1000watts of audio gear for trips back and forth across town...start up, drive 5 minutes or less and shut the car off...then start it back up and go somewhere else. look..."pretty" batteries are like so much of the bling in the aftermarket for autos. they might look cool and all the ricer fan boys are using them, but, in reality, its still a overpriced turd. wanna know something really sad? general motors AC Delco brand batteries last longer than the aftermarket junk I have seen...SUV's with 150k miles on them and subwoofers in the back...still cranking over on a 10 year old battery. just my 2 cents...
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#20 |
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Audio Junky
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i had a blue top for about 4 years in my 626... that thing started up perfectly fine in the cold... coldest I ever started it was -20F.
They be spensive.... but I think they are quality... Course... if you don't have the alternator to keep it charged, even a deep cycle will eventually lose its power over repeated uses of discharge-partial recharge-discharge. |
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#21 | |
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Audio Junky
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Quote:
Having an alternator that can actually charge your bat is the biggest factor in battery life if you happen to be a person with lots of amp draining electronics. the biggest mistake most people make when it comes to stereo is to crank it as soon as they get in the car, and to keep it cranked until the car is shut off. Wait a minute before cranking the car, and turn the stereo off 1 min before you turn your car off... this will give the car a head start on charging, and a one last shot at the end. people generally don't understand anything about electric concepts (i'm not implying you fit in with this) and thus they abuse their electrical systems instead of upgrading them. |
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#22 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 08 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: California - Bay Area
Posts: 2,773
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Yellow tops are not really meant for a main car battery. But as a supplement. Usually for cars that have high powered stereo systems in need of a deep cycle battery. True a yellow top is a cheap way to avoid costly high amp altenators or capacitors. But depending on the temperature it may not be able to start your car like in your case. It just dosnt have the cranking amperage. For a good all in one battery thats main design as a main car battery the red top would be a good choice. While still having simular properties to the yellow top.
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#23 |
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The Hated One
Drives: 07 White Manual Sedan Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Oregon,USA
Posts: 390
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i dont take offence to that, i agree with you talnlnky...but I have seen the delco batteries last just as long in other cars...one of my first cars was a cavalier w/ stock charging system that i abused the hell out of with audio goodies.
my point is this, for the average person, they WONT be deep cycle charging their battery or even shutting off electronics prior to a engine off in their econoboxes unless its turbo'd with a turbo timer. so a deep cycle battery with a name on it is just stupid if you are running a vehicle under normal circumstances. I have yet to see one of their batteries last in a car, truck, or SUV under real world conditions. my boss (shop owner) has gone through multiple deep cycle optimas on his trailer over the last 8 months, and he is using them as they were intended. at the end of the day, you all have paid how much in optima batteries for style or so called performance, and have even had them fail for some people, and i am still running my toyota battery. there is really no noticable differance between the two other than my car starts in sub 30 degree weather... BTW, I abuse the hell out of the battery...everything talnlnky said not to do...i do on a daily bassis...and amazingly enough, 2 and a half years later the battery passes the factory load test rating...i suppose when i actually start blowing through batteries i will look for a new battery and a alternator upgrade...till then...i will save the optima money for more stereo goodies...
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#24 |
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I used a red top in my civic for 7 years in new england, no problem.
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#25 |
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Give Me Resonance
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Id like to hear from someone with a yaris with whatever battery they're using and at least 1200 watts worth of car audio in it that they use when driving a lot.
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![]() (3) 12" Alpine Type R Subs/Hifonics BXi1208D Hifonics ZXi6.5c / 2006 Kicker ZX350.4 Knu Fleks 1/0 Wiring & In Big 3 Optima Yellow Top Battery/Iraggi HO Alternator Alpine CDA-105, KCA-420i/KCA-121b/KCE-400BT PG TLD22 8V Line Driver |
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#26 |
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Banned
Drives: LB Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: OH
Posts: 7,787
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I've got 1400 watts, stock battery, no cap or anything. Works fine. Cranking the sub makes my headlights dim quite a bit, and if I listen to the radio with the car off forget about it. 2 minutes and the battery is dead, but past that no problems.
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#27 |
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Give Me Resonance
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Hm, I get no dimming at all no matter how High i crank it up with sub going crazy and the speakers deafening.
Good to know though.
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![]() (3) 12" Alpine Type R Subs/Hifonics BXi1208D Hifonics ZXi6.5c / 2006 Kicker ZX350.4 Knu Fleks 1/0 Wiring & In Big 3 Optima Yellow Top Battery/Iraggi HO Alternator Alpine CDA-105, KCA-420i/KCA-121b/KCE-400BT PG TLD22 8V Line Driver |
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#28 |
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Banned
Drives: LB Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: OH
Posts: 7,787
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You have a cap.
I need one.
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#29 |
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Give Me Resonance
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Seeing as how everyone bashes them I pretty much ended up thinking of my cap as a big placebo'd Volt meter.
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![]() (3) 12" Alpine Type R Subs/Hifonics BXi1208D Hifonics ZXi6.5c / 2006 Kicker ZX350.4 Knu Fleks 1/0 Wiring & In Big 3 Optima Yellow Top Battery/Iraggi HO Alternator Alpine CDA-105, KCA-420i/KCA-121b/KCE-400BT PG TLD22 8V Line Driver |
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#30 |
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Banned
Drives: LB Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: OH
Posts: 7,787
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Nope. Its like skip protection for your electrical system. You really ought to have one if you have a powerful system in a tiny car.
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#31 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 08 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: California - Bay Area
Posts: 2,773
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Just get a interstate battery. They are warrentied nationwide and are a good quality battery.
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#32 |
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Give Me Resonance
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do you have one, and if you do, do you have and use a high powered car audio system daily?
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![]() (3) 12" Alpine Type R Subs/Hifonics BXi1208D Hifonics ZXi6.5c / 2006 Kicker ZX350.4 Knu Fleks 1/0 Wiring & In Big 3 Optima Yellow Top Battery/Iraggi HO Alternator Alpine CDA-105, KCA-420i/KCA-121b/KCE-400BT PG TLD22 8V Line Driver |
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#33 |
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The Hated One
Drives: 07 White Manual Sedan Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Oregon,USA
Posts: 390
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well, if this helps, my shops carried interstate batteries for several years before we switched suppliers, and had a VERY low warranty rate with them. the only reason we switched is the local branch we were getting supplied from switched over to a company called batteries northwest.
I have had good luck with both of those suppliers. at any rate, i abuse the hell out of my stock battery, 1500w of amps, and a 2 farad cap. no dimming headlights ect no matter how high its cranked. i am just very warry of alot of these aftermarket batteries cause they have always been returned when we tried to use them.
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#34 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 blazing blue yaris LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: central IL
Posts: 131
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i am running 1700 watts rms in my sub amp and prolly round 75x4 in my 4 channel. still have stock battery so far with a 20 farad tsunami cap. i wana add a red top. i have a red top in my silverado and it ran all this equipment for 2 years on it and always started the truck. truck battery died the other day had a cell go bad but truck was hit by lightning bout 4 months ago coming home from work. fried pcm bcm and tach module and several other parts, they said battery was ok but i think thats what killed it. but they have 3 year over counter swap at advance auto. got new red top and pair 0.
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http://cardomain.com/ride/3151056 ![]() ![]() mods: custom sub box, i hit 141.4 db, new speakers, double-din nav, foglights, cruise, CAI, strut brace, under car braces, short antenna, remote start, alarm, actuators in doors and hatch coming soon: window tint, custom sub grills, tach and........ |
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#35 |
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Audio Junky
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honestly.... whichever brand you get... go with a deepcycle... and make sure its sealed. Having a sealed battery ALONE is worth it... never have to worry about fluid levels, or maintenance. I remember I didn't have any corrosion or anything on my bluetop.. this stock battery has blue crusty foam like residue on the positive post. Not a big fan of that.
When my stock battery dies... I'll probably look to get the lightest battery I can with a good CCA/CA rating on it... and is maintenance free. |
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#36 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Yaris '09,GTi '09, BMW 3.30ci Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Lebanon, Middle East.
Posts: 582
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You got hit by lightning? weird
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