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Old 09-08-2009, 06:54 PM   #19
o89canucks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yaris Hilton View Post
There are lots of other experienced mechanics who'd disagree with you on those points. I'll cite this reference:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
If I remember correctly, this post was about longevity of the front brake pads, not on if rotors warp or not.

and for the stoptech garbage, you don't believe all the crap you read on the internet, do you?
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Old 09-09-2009, 07:07 PM   #20
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I just got my car back from being at the shop for 5+ weeks... should make a thread on that one.

But finally driving my sedan and not my dads new SUV, makes me feel different, I love the cars handling again. But its sooo much lower lol. And no more leather anywhere.... and no more sunroof, and no more navi/XM ect...

ANYWAY!

So yes, my car has like what 60+k miles, and the pads look almost no different then from day one, and I usually stomp on them all the time, no slow stops for me. Maybe thats the difference? And although they stop the car just fine, I wish they would stop it faster, maybe thats the effects of these pads/rotors? The drums are fine as I just adjusted them a while ago. hmmmm I wonder what to do, but then again better not to fix something that isnt broken as they say.
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Old 09-09-2009, 07:33 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o89canucks View Post
If I remember correctly, this post was about longevity of the front brake pads, not on if rotors warp or not.

and for the stoptech garbage, you don't believe all the crap you read on the internet, do you?
those engineers from stoptech cant know more than guys on the internet!

i got 60k out of my oem pads with a half dozen track days and lots of autoxes.
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Old 09-09-2009, 07:33 PM   #22
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I think I also need to adjust my drums. I'll probably follow Jason's DIY on that.
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Old 09-10-2009, 04:08 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o89canucks View Post
I have even seen the lateral runout be so bad (most common in Mitsubishi's) that the steering wheel will have a shimmy while the brakes aren't applied.
Oh gods, this, right here, and frying alternators so often most folks with this car I know keep a spare one in the trunk and can change it in under five minutes, are the two things I don't miss at all about owning a DSM Eclipse.

Being able to run up to triples in 3rd gear though was always nice, since mine was the FWD model. Muscle cars hate it when you just cruise past them frantically mashing their shifter up and down while you keep both hands on the steering wheel, thinking an automatic just beat them. Nah, just good gearing.

As for the brake pads: 45k here, they still look almost new, rotors and shoes too. I engine-brake as much as I can though, I'll admit, to the point friends always insist I ride at the rear of convoy's because I never give any visual warning of my speed to those behind me.
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Old 09-10-2009, 11:17 AM   #24
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I noticed that my rotors seem fine too, no lip or anything, at all, and it just amazes me.

But on a side note, I noticed the car does a lot of very heavy engine breaking. I do not understand why. Like I let go of the gas, and it really starts to slow down, even though its not revving high at all. I tested this on my dads new car, and it will go on almost forever stating +60MPG and barely slowly down.

So what gives here with my Yaris? : (
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Old 09-10-2009, 06:51 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kngrsll View Post
those engineers from stoptech cant know more than guys on the internet!

i got 60k out of my oem pads with a half dozen track days and lots of autoxes.
any idiot nowadays can be an "engineer" with all the online degrees available.
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Old 09-10-2009, 07:52 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lafiro View Post
I noticed that my rotors seem fine too, no lip or anything, at all, and it just amazes me.

But on a side note, I noticed the car does a lot of very heavy engine breaking. I do not understand why. Like I let go of the gas, and it really starts to slow down, even though its not revving high at all. I tested this on my dads new car, and it will go on almost forever stating +60MPG and barely slowly down.

So what gives here with my Yaris? : (
Help my brain out...you're the one that adjusted your rear brakes awhile back and had only 1-2 clicks at the hand brake...?
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Old 09-11-2009, 05:25 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lafiro View Post
I noticed that my rotors seem fine too, no lip or anything, at all, and it just amazes me.

But on a side note, I noticed the car does a lot of very heavy engine breaking. I do not understand why. Like I let go of the gas, and it really starts to slow down, even though its not revving high at all. I tested this on my dads new car, and it will go on almost forever stating +60MPG and barely slowly down.

So what gives here with my Yaris? : (
Very few cars have complete fuel cut-off. That's something I got used to having back with that DSM Eclipse I mentioned, it was one of the first consumer-grade sports cars I'm aware of that would shut off the fuel injectors entirely as long as your revs were a couple hundred above idle, so the engine could provide a relatively decent engine-braking effect.

Same thing with the Yaris: It has a LOT more engine braking power than a 1.5l mid-80's Civic, for example, because the mid-80's Civic never stops sputtering fuel in and exploding it, giving little nudges. Yaris? Same effect as turning off the engine whenever you're coasting with your foot off the gas pedal entirely.
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Old 09-11-2009, 09:54 AM   #28
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ive got 43k Miles on my stock brakes. 7 track days and never any brake issues. i have adjusted and cleaned the rears twice but still lots of friction material left front and rear and my rotors are now blue but still roll straight. at 40k i cleaned the brakes and measured the lining thickness, i still have 9.2mm of 12mm on the front pads and 2.9mm of 4mm on the rear shoes.
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Old 09-11-2009, 11:39 AM   #29
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hitting 56000 miles not ready for pads yet i think its due to fwy miles but its cool would have thaught i needed new pads by now im sure it right around the corner
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Old 09-11-2009, 12:50 PM   #30
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34k... I do a lot of engine braking so i'd be surprised if I need new pads before 70,000 miles. Hopefully I can make it to 100,000.
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Old 09-11-2009, 01:10 PM   #31
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If most of us, like me, are reporting almost like new brake pads, and rotors that don't have any lip and look/perform just fine, I won't be suprised if most of us make it to 120,000Miles being needing to change them out.

As for the rear drums and shoes, the shoes would most likely have to go before 70k. I think I noticed mine had cracks last time I checked, so I will look at them one more them in a week or two before it gets colder.
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Old 08-12-2011, 07:11 PM   #32
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100K and mine need to be replaced.
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Old 08-12-2011, 07:30 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o89canucks View Post
Who told you that pile of garbage???

I have resurfaced a lot of rotors and you can definetly tell that a rotor has lateral runout when it is on the brake lathe. Take a hot rotor and drive through a puddle or snow and it is like taking a hot pan off the stove and pouring cold water into it from the sink. I have even seen the lateral runout be so bad (most common in Mitsubishi's) that the steering wheel will have a shimmy while the brakes aren't applied.

The clamping force of the pads against the rotor is so stong that even if your theory of "brake pad deposits" had any truth to it, the "brake pad deposits" would be removed the very next time that you braked.

I guess flywheels never get hotspots in them either or warp out and never need to be resurfaced either if this theory were true?

Lets put it this way:


MY rotors never warp.


Nor the flywheel.
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Old 08-12-2011, 09:01 PM   #34
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I have seen them warp from over tightening lug nuts or incorrectly torquing them.
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Old 03-17-2012, 03:59 AM   #35
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I just had my serpentine belt replaced for the first time last week at 207,135 miles and I had them check my brakes as well. My brakes are wearing evenly and are only 20 percent worn. I think the rate of wear is partially due to driving habits and partially due to the terrain where you live. I do a lot of engine braking as well as coasting up to traffic signals when it is safe to do so. I also usually drive at the speed limit or up to 5 MPH under the speed limit. I think that those of us who live (or normally drive) in flat or RELATIVELY flat areas (I live in Southern Montgomery County, just north of Houston and you in St. Louis) also get more miles from our brakes. I previously lived (and most of my extended family still lives) in the San Francisco Bay Area and generally people wear their brakes out MUCH faster there.
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Old 03-17-2012, 09:26 AM   #36
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i just replaced mine at 100 000KM but car sat for 5 months and the rotors were soooo rusted the pads were braking on 10% of the surface the calliper pins were sticking

i put 6$ worth of grease in them so it should be fine
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