Blinding blue indicator light - Page 2 - Toyota Yaris Forums

*Astroman* · 09-30-2009, 04:22 PM

My '71 ford had a red light for the high beam. Much nicer.

birdman · 09-30-2009, 05:03 PM

Thanks for all your insights. I seem to remember an article that placed the resister in the wiring coming off of the head light assemblies under the hood (bonnet). Not having to tear apart the dash would be a real plus. But if tearing the dash apart to do it is what I have to do then so be it. I'm after an inconspicuous fix.

CTScott · 09-30-2009, 05:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by birdman

Thanks for all your insights. I seem to remember an article that placed the resister in the wiring coming off of the head light assemblies under the hood (bonnet). Not having to tear apart the dash would be a real plus. But if tearing the dash apart to do it is what I have to do then so be it. I'm after an inconspicuous fix.

A resistor can be added in series with the circuit to avoid having to disassemble the cluster. You could potentially cut into where the signal routes through Connector BA1 under the hood, but it would be easier to add the resistor at the connector entering the cluster. You would cut the gray wire in position 14 and add a resistor between the cut wire. I would start at about 1K Ohms and go up from there to find a desirable brightness.

Conn D2.jpg

birdman · 09-30-2009, 07:16 PM

Thanks for the info but I'll need a bit more clarification to understand the lingo. What is a cluster? Where under the hood is position I4 and what does that diagram mean? I don't see anything with a BA1 on the diagram. I don't even know where this electrical block is located. Has anyone done a step by step pictorial on this yet?

CTScott · 09-30-2009, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by birdman

Thanks for the info but I'll need a bit more clarification to understand the lingo. What is a cluster? Where under the hood is position I4 and what does that diagram mean? I don't see anything with a BA1 on the diagram. I don't even know where this electrical block is located. Has anyone done a step by step pictorial on this yet?

BA1 is a terminal block within the fuse box under the hood. The place where the resistor would need to be added is on a connector that is under the fuse box, so it would be easier to pop off the trim around the cluster (also known as the combination meter, speedometer, etc.) and make the connection where the wire enters one of the two connectors (connector D2 pictured above) going into it.

Here's a picture of connector D2. Wire 14 is the gray wire third from the left on the bottom row:
CM - Conn D2.jpg

Here is the annoying indicator before modification:
CM - Before.jpg

And, here it is after adding a 2K resistor inline with the gray wire:
CM - After 2K.jpg

Both pictures were snapped with the same camera settings. You can see how the before picture has a glowing halo around the indicator and the second is illuminated, but no where near as much as the before pic.

birdman · 09-30-2009, 07:35 PM

I posted this already in another section. Being new I'm still trying to find my way around. After long night drives I find the high beam indicator light a bit too bright and I want to reduce it a bit. I drive in remote areas where there is lots of game that I want to avoid hitting so I need the brights on. Has anyone submitted a step by step pictorial on how to add a resister? One member said there was a way to do it under the hood (bonnet) instead of disassembling the dash. The suggestion I got was very thoughtful but way over my head. I'm not afraid to do it myself but I'll have to be led through this one in layman terminology. Thanks.:eyebulge

AlexNet0 · 09-30-2009, 08:09 PM

instead of starting a new thread, you should PM tk-421 and ask him to move the other thread here.

the suggestions you got from CTScott are the best I believe you are going to get.

If you would like me to elaborate on the cluster method (the cluster is the circuit board where the speedometer and indicator lights are) then I will post again later.

severous01 · 09-30-2009, 08:13 PM

turn your brightness knob down. it'll dim all lights on dash

CTScott · 09-30-2009, 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by severous01

turn your brightness knob down. it'll dim all lights on dash

The indicators don't dim, just the speedometer and fuel gauge dim.

birdman · 09-30-2009, 09:02 PM

I'm new at computers and don't have a clue what a PM tk-421 is. CTScott is very smart. I just read his tire pressure warning light shut off switch install. Actually this post is the new improved version of the other. I will send him a message. Thank you. Yarisworld rocks!

CTScott · 09-30-2009, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by birdman

I'm new at computers and don't have a clue what a PM tk-421 is. CTScott is very smart. I just read his tire pressure warning light shut off switch install. Actually this post is the new improved version of the other. I will send him a message. Thank you. Yarisworld rocks!

Look at the last post of the other one. I did a quick test with pics for you.

birdman · 09-30-2009, 09:10 PM

Thanks Alex. I want to avoid the circuit board approach if possible. Way beyond my comfort zone. I may end up applying a black dot on the plastic shield if it comes to it.

birdman · 09-30-2009, 09:11 PM

CTScott you rock!

birdman · 09-30-2009, 09:16 PM

Marcus, At the end of the day I might just do it. Thanks man.

birdman · 09-30-2009, 09:29 PM

CTScott you are too much man. You must possess an extra chromosome or something. When you spliced the gray wire was the gauge assembly still in the car? If not How do you remove it? Do you have a photo of the 2k resister in place? Does it need soldering? Does it matter which end of the resister is closest to the D2 connecter?

CTScott · 09-30-2009, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by birdman

CTScott you are too much man. You must possess an extra chromosome or something. When you spliced the gray wire was the gauge assembly still in the car? If not How do you remove it? Do you have a photo of the 2k resister in place? Does it need soldering? Does it matter which end of the resister is closest to the D2 connecter?

I tested it out on Crashy (my ebay purchased totaled Yaris), who has no headlights, so i actually jumped power to the indicator to make it light and then added the resistor inline with the jumper. I also have her dash completely removed, so I have easy access to all wiring.

But, to do this on an intact car, you pop the cluster trim, disconnect the connector, and then cut the resistor into the wiring harness. You'll cut the wire (about 2" from the connector to give yourself room to work), strip both ends, attach one end of the resistor to each (resistors aren't polarized, so it doesn't matter which end goes to which), and then either heat shrink it or tape it up.

bronsin · 09-30-2009, 10:18 PM

Hmmm very interesting and Ive learned something here. Still wouldnt it make a lot more sense to put a piece of colored tape over the high beam indicator rather than take everything apart and all?

birdman · 09-30-2009, 10:43 PM

Thanks CT. I have one more question regarding this fix. Can you get crimp-on resisters or must they be soldered?

09-30-2009, 04:22 PM	#1
Astroman Modded Moderator View User's Garage Drives: 07 Toyota Yaris, 71 Galaxie Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Wenatchee, WA Posts: 3,670	My '71 ford had a red light for the high beam. Much nicer. __________________ Please visit my online store for computer stuff and Official Yarisworld decals!

09-30-2009, 07:35 PM	#6
birdman Drives: '08 Blazing Blue Yaris LB Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: USA Posts: 496	Bright blue indicator light I posted this already in another section. Being new I'm still trying to find my way around. After long night drives I find the high beam indicator light a bit too bright and I want to reduce it a bit. I drive in remote areas where there is lots of game that I want to avoid hitting so I need the brights on. Has anyone submitted a step by step pictorial on how to add a resister? One member said there was a way to do it under the hood (bonnet) instead of disassembling the dash. The suggestion I got was very thoughtful but way over my head. I'm not afraid to do it myself but I'll have to be led through this one in layman terminology. Thanks.:eyebulge

09-30-2009, 08:09 PM	#7
AlexNet0 View User's Garage Drives: '07 Yaris 3dr Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Rockland, ME Posts: 1,638	instead of starting a new thread, you should PM tk-421 and ask him to move the other thread here. the suggestions you got from CTScott are the best I believe you are going to get. If you would like me to elaborate on the cluster method (the cluster is the circuit board where the speedometer and indicator lights are) then I will post again later. __________________ ---------- MI-YW ----------

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
F/S Blue Stitched Leather Shift Boot.	1NZYaris1	Items for Sale by private party	9	05-07-2009 12:59 AM
Bayou Blue paint code	andru47	General Yaris / Vitz Discussion	7	01-03-2009 05:19 PM
Blue Film over gauges	Jeff1	DIY / Maintenance / Service	10	10-21-2008 04:01 PM
Black or Blue	CrashRescueFF	New YARIS Purchase Forum	18	07-24-2007 08:21 PM
Nautical Blue Metallic	YotaYarisUSA	General Yaris / Vitz Discussion	0	04-02-2006 08:09 PM

09-30-2009, 05:03 PM	#2
birdman Drives: '08 Blazing Blue Yaris LB Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: USA Posts: 496	Thanks for all your insights. I seem to remember an article that placed the resister in the wiring coming off of the head light assemblies under the hood (bonnet). Not having to tear apart the dash would be a real plus. But if tearing the dash apart to do it is what I have to do then so be it. I'm after an inconspicuous fix.

09-30-2009, 07:16 PM	#4
birdman Drives: '08 Blazing Blue Yaris LB Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: USA Posts: 496	Thanks for the info but I'll need a bit more clarification to understand the lingo. What is a cluster? Where under the hood is position I4 and what does that diagram mean? I don't see anything with a BA1 on the diagram. I don't even know where this electrical block is located. Has anyone done a step by step pictorial on this yet?

09-30-2009, 08:13 PM	#8
severous01 Drives: 2008 yaris, stripped, red Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: SE Texas Posts: 977	turn your brightness knob down. it'll dim all lights on dash

09-30-2009, 09:02 PM	#10
birdman Drives: '08 Blazing Blue Yaris LB Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: USA Posts: 496	I'm new at computers and don't have a clue what a PM tk-421 is. CTScott is very smart. I just read his tire pressure warning light shut off switch install. Actually this post is the new improved version of the other. I will send him a message. Thank you. Yarisworld rocks!

09-30-2009, 09:10 PM	#12
birdman Drives: '08 Blazing Blue Yaris LB Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: USA Posts: 496	Thanks Alex. I want to avoid the circuit board approach if possible. Way beyond my comfort zone. I may end up applying a black dot on the plastic shield if it comes to it.

09-30-2009, 09:11 PM	#13
birdman Drives: '08 Blazing Blue Yaris LB Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: USA Posts: 496	CTScott you rock!

09-30-2009, 09:16 PM	#14
birdman Drives: '08 Blazing Blue Yaris LB Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: USA Posts: 496	Marcus, At the end of the day I might just do it. Thanks man.

09-30-2009, 09:29 PM	#15
birdman Drives: '08 Blazing Blue Yaris LB Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: USA Posts: 496	CTScott you are too much man. You must possess an extra chromosome or something. When you spliced the gray wire was the gauge assembly still in the car? If not How do you remove it? Do you have a photo of the 2k resister in place? Does it need soldering? Does it matter which end of the resister is closest to the D2 connecter?

09-30-2009, 10:18 PM	#17
bronsin Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: nj Posts: 4,792	Hmmm very interesting and Ive learned something here. Still wouldnt it make a lot more sense to put a piece of colored tape over the high beam indicator rather than take everything apart and all?

09-30-2009, 10:43 PM	#18
birdman Drives: '08 Blazing Blue Yaris LB Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: USA Posts: 496	Thanks CT. I have one more question regarding this fix. Can you get crimp-on resisters or must they be soldered?