Electrical Problems PS,A/C,RADIO,SPEEDOMETER,SIGNALS,AIR BAG LIGHT ON, ALTERNATOR - Page 2 - Toyota Yaris Forums

CanadianHiFive2 · 09-17-2011, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aminda01

i have a some sort of a similar problem.. i have a yaris sedan 2006.. i can start the car without any problem but sometimes the dash board starts blinking its very hard to see though but when you carefully look at it you can see that it blinking and then the steering weel gets hard to turn..

i'm wondering whats the problem is this problem starts when i on the radio.. its kenwood.. i used my car without using my radio for quite some time the problem didnt come.. but recently someone had on the radio on its stand by and the problem came yesterday again.. but when i off and start the car it becomes normal again..

THis is probably an issue with too much power being put towards your sound system, maybe try using a capacitor

iamzombie · 02-11-2012, 04:12 PM

My wife's 07 hatchback is having similar issues.

Intermittently her charging system or airbag warning light will come on, she says the headlights sometimes dim when driving at night (and sometimes work fine), and says her heater doesn't seem to work as well as it used to.

No mention of problems with power steering, radio, etc.

I checked the A27 connector CTScott mentioned, hers appears a bit different, but couldn't see any problems there. Anyone have any other suggestions?

CTScott · 02-11-2012, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iamzombie

My wife's 07 hatchback is having similar issues.

Intermittently her charging system or airbag warning light will come on, she says the headlights sometimes dim when driving at night (and sometimes work fine), and says her heater doesn't seem to work as well as it used to.

No mention of problems with power steering, radio, etc.

I checked the A27 connector CTScott mentioned, hers appears a bit different, but couldn't see any problems there. Anyone have any other suggestions?

If the battery terminal wires are good, check the battery terminals for corrosion and also check the battery and alternator. With a multimeter you can measure the battery voltage with the car off (which should read 12.5 or more volts) and with the engine running (which should measure about 14.1 volts with the alternator spinning).

iamzombie · 02-11-2012, 04:41 PM

I checked the battery with a digital battery analyser at work, said it was good. Over 575 CCA, battery was putting out 12.3v w/ the engine off, at around 3k rpm it was slightly above 16v (high, I know, but wouldn't cause problems w/ dim lights, would it?)

Battery cables/terminals are clean and fuses are all good, ODB II reader returned no codes.

The car was in to the dealer for servicing earlier and they said the alternator was bad and needed to be replaced. (the symptoms didn't seems to correlate to their solution in my head, anyway. I'm an electronics tech in the military, but in no means an expert at vehicle electrical systems)

CTScott · 02-11-2012, 06:19 PM

16 volts is quite high. I think the voltage regulator within the alternator is bad.

menz · 02-19-2012, 10:34 AM

I would recommend checking the electrical board. couple of years ago i removed my ac fan to clean it and later that night my abs light turned on and some other stuff happened like the cabin light will turn on while braking ... etc. I took it to the service center i deal with and they have told me when i reconnected the fan i did it wrong which melted something and that was the cause of my trouble. I can not remember the issue exactly because it was long ago. I hope this could help.

bzinn 1 · 02-20-2012, 02:05 AM

When I changed out my main ruse shown in CTscotts picture where the white wire and black wire were it was totally corroded....since I cleaned it and put some dielectric grese on them it is better than ever.I also had to change the main fuse out since I blew half of it.Car puts out more V now than when it was new...stays steady all day long with my amp on and everything at 14v before it was 12.9v.

HighMilesForLife · 12-22-2012, 12:25 PM

Correct, I popped the 120A fusible link for the alternator. before I figured out how to get the plastic cover off, I went to the Yota dealer with a different car and spent 30 mins not being able to find the correct part # to order, and no one knew what I was reffering to even with a pic. Not sure how theyd never seen this happen before. So, I bent the link back together with a screwdriver, its pretty strong metal so everything works in the car now. Those fusible links do not look removable to me....
So my questions are now, does anyone have the exact part # for the 120A fusible link on a 2008 Yaris? And also.. how the hell does that thing come out? It looks more sensible to just solder it and leave it alone, and making sure the battery is all unhooked before I start working on things in there. Is soldering a bad idea? It's already touching, so a proper solder job should not allow for over-amperage. Thanks again guys.

CTScott · 12-22-2012, 06:49 PM

They are not replaceable individually. You have to remove that section of the positive battery terminal to replace it.

The part is called the "block assembly, fusible link" and the part number is: 82620-52050
It is about $12.

HighMilesForLife · 12-23-2012, 02:52 PM

Okay, if the parts department in Albany does not figure that out at least I will have exact information to give them now. 12 bucks for that whole piece is decent. Thanks!!

MuseManAzzu · 05-11-2013, 02:27 PM

Hi guys, I've been experiencing the same issues as the OP with my 2007 Yaris Zinc.

I have tried taking a look at the connector that CTScott suggested however it seems clean and in good form (see photos).

With my problem I have no P/S, No Indicators (Signals), no speedometer, no reversing light, no wipers (front and rear) or washer, no AC, seatbelt warning sound goes off randomly and electric windows dont work.

Things that do work: Headlights, brakelights, hazard lights, radio/cd player, electric door mirrors, interior lights.

Sometimes the car will start up fine, P/S and such all working (malfunction light still on the dashboard though) but if you either put the car in reverse or use the wipers there is a clicking noise followed by all the other electrical components failing such as P/S etc.

I have checked every single fuse including the main fuse on the battery terminal, all are ok. My local garage have suggested the Alternator / Voltage Regulator. I check the output of the battery, it was 12V off and 14V when running which suggests the alternator is charging the battery (even though the battery light is displayed on the dashboard).

I have the car booked in for diagnosis on Tuesday but was hoping to find something that I may be able to repair myself before then to save on the no doubt humongous bill.

Any help would be much appreciated!

CTScott · 05-11-2013, 03:18 PM

If you look up into the wire entry end of the black connector, does it look good there? Also, how about up into where the black connector plugs into?

Another thing to check is on the face of the under dash fuse panel there is a very large black wire that plugs into a large one pin connector on the fuse panel. Check him and also take a voltage measurement on him.

rmshort · 05-25-2020, 07:31 PM

I've been having major issues with my Yaris over the past few days, tried everything I could think of to get her back to a state of reliability. It started the other day when she stalled on me, so I replaced the battery, and then she continued to stall shortly after starting up again and again. The next day she started right up with a bit of starter fluid(through the MAF sensor port, MAF plugged in, resting in the crevice between the battery and airbox), which lead me to believe it was fuel related. Checked fuel pressure, and it was on par. Then when I hooked the fuel line back up, she started and ran again. I tried to get in and take her for a ride, only to find I could barely turn the wheel in P, and even more difficulty in D. Today I woke up and decided to go get new battery terminals. Hooked them up to the new battery and jump-started, after that no problems. It's been a very confusing few days, I can only hope she's done being difficult for a while.

Oilhoots · 04-17-2021, 05:54 AM

Im having similar issues with my car as well but from all CCT has been saying I'm guessing it's some kind of power issue some where along the wire or connections so a full inspection of it should lead me to the problem

bst82551 · 06-23-2010, 07:44 PM

Have you checked your fuses?

big lo · 06-23-2010, 08:59 PM

First off when did the problem accure? Did you have some work done to the car that needed some cables installed? Did you buy the vehicle used? The fuse box should be checked, and the battery as well, if the car runs its not the alternater, has to be the battery it might be low in charge.

toystory · 06-24-2010, 12:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by big lo

First off when did the problem accure? Did you have some work done to the car that needed some cables installed? Did you buy the vehicle used? The fuse box should be checked, and the battery as well, if the car runs its not the alternater, has to be the battery it might be low in charge.

IT OCCURED ABOUT A WEEK AGO THREE TIMES. NO WORK WAS DONE FOR ANY NEW CABLES. YES, THE CAR WAS BOUGHT USED 2 YEARS AGO AND I NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEMS. BOTH FUSE BOXES WERE CHECKED. TY!

brg88tx · 06-24-2010, 12:05 AM

lemme guess, your electrical problems started right after you replaced your failed water pump....riiiiight.

02-11-2012, 06:19 PM	#5
CTScott ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: USA, CT Posts: 13,460	16 volts is quite high. I think the voltage regulator within the alternator is bad. __________________

12-22-2012, 06:49 PM	#9
CTScott ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: USA, CT Posts: 13,460	They are not replaceable individually. You have to remove that section of the positive battery terminal to replace it. The part is called the "block assembly, fusible link" and the part number is: 82620-52050 It is about $12. __________________

05-11-2013, 03:18 PM	#12
CTScott ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: USA, CT Posts: 13,460	If you look up into the wire entry end of the black connector, does it look good there? Also, how about up into where the black connector plugs into? Another thing to check is on the face of the under dash fuse panel there is a very large black wire that plugs into a large one pin connector on the fuse panel. Check him and also take a voltage measurement on him. __________________

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02-11-2012, 04:12 PM	#2
iamzombie Drives: 2007 yaris Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: canada Posts: 5	My wife's 07 hatchback is having similar issues. Intermittently her charging system or airbag warning light will come on, she says the headlights sometimes dim when driving at night (and sometimes work fine), and says her heater doesn't seem to work as well as it used to. No mention of problems with power steering, radio, etc. I checked the A27 connector CTScott mentioned, hers appears a bit different, but couldn't see any problems there. Anyone have any other suggestions?

02-11-2012, 04:41 PM	#4
iamzombie Drives: 2007 yaris Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: canada Posts: 5	I checked the battery with a digital battery analyser at work, said it was good. Over 575 CCA, battery was putting out 12.3v w/ the engine off, at around 3k rpm it was slightly above 16v (high, I know, but wouldn't cause problems w/ dim lights, would it?) Battery cables/terminals are clean and fuses are all good, ODB II reader returned no codes. The car was in to the dealer for servicing earlier and they said the alternator was bad and needed to be replaced. (the symptoms didn't seems to correlate to their solution in my head, anyway. I'm an electronics tech in the military, but in no means an expert at vehicle electrical systems)

02-19-2012, 10:34 AM	#6
menz Drives: yairs blue 2007 automatic 1.3 Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Egypt Posts: 24	I would recommend checking the electrical board. couple of years ago i removed my ac fan to clean it and later that night my abs light turned on and some other stuff happened like the cabin light will turn on while braking ... etc. I took it to the service center i deal with and they have told me when i reconnected the fan i did it wrong which melted something and that was the cause of my trouble. I can not remember the issue exactly because it was long ago. I hope this could help.

02-20-2012, 02:05 AM	#7
bzinn 1 Drives: 2008 Yaris HB Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: University Place,WA Posts: 828	When I changed out my main ruse shown in CTscotts picture where the white wire and black wire were it was totally corroded....since I cleaned it and put some dielectric grese on them it is better than ever.I also had to change the main fuse out since I blew half of it.Car puts out more V now than when it was new...stays steady all day long with my amp on and everything at 14v before it was 12.9v.

12-22-2012, 12:25 PM	#8
HighMilesForLife Drives: 2008 Black Yaris sedan Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Upstate NY Posts: 3	Correct, I popped the 120A fusible link for the alternator. before I figured out how to get the plastic cover off, I went to the Yota dealer with a different car and spent 30 mins not being able to find the correct part # to order, and no one knew what I was reffering to even with a pic. Not sure how theyd never seen this happen before. So, I bent the link back together with a screwdriver, its pretty strong metal so everything works in the car now. Those fusible links do not look removable to me.... So my questions are now, does anyone have the exact part # for the 120A fusible link on a 2008 Yaris? And also.. how the hell does that thing come out? It looks more sensible to just solder it and leave it alone, and making sure the battery is all unhooked before I start working on things in there. Is soldering a bad idea? It's already touching, so a proper solder job should not allow for over-amperage. Thanks again guys.

12-23-2012, 02:52 PM	#10
HighMilesForLife Drives: 2008 Black Yaris sedan Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Upstate NY Posts: 3	Okay, if the parts department in Albany does not figure that out at least I will have exact information to give them now. 12 bucks for that whole piece is decent. Thanks!!

05-11-2013, 02:27 PM	#11
MuseManAzzu I've made a post! Drives: Toyota Yaris 2007 1.3 Join Date: May 2013 Location: Durham, UK Posts: 1	Hi guys, I've been experiencing the same issues as the OP with my 2007 Yaris Zinc. I have tried taking a look at the connector that CTScott suggested however it seems clean and in good form (see photos). With my problem I have no P/S, No Indicators (Signals), no speedometer, no reversing light, no wipers (front and rear) or washer, no AC, seatbelt warning sound goes off randomly and electric windows dont work. Things that do work: Headlights, brakelights, hazard lights, radio/cd player, electric door mirrors, interior lights. Sometimes the car will start up fine, P/S and such all working (malfunction light still on the dashboard though) but if you either put the car in reverse or use the wipers there is a clicking noise followed by all the other electrical components failing such as P/S etc. I have checked every single fuse including the main fuse on the battery terminal, all are ok. My local garage have suggested the Alternator / Voltage Regulator. I check the output of the battery, it was 12V off and 14V when running which suggests the alternator is charging the battery (even though the battery light is displayed on the dashboard). I have the car booked in for diagnosis on Tuesday but was hoping to find something that I may be able to repair myself before then to save on the no doubt humongous bill. Any help would be much appreciated!

05-25-2020, 07:31 PM	#13
rmshort Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris 3dr Join Date: Apr 2020 Location: Amarillo, Texas Posts: 23	I've been having major issues with my Yaris over the past few days, tried everything I could think of to get her back to a state of reliability. It started the other day when she stalled on me, so I replaced the battery, and then she continued to stall shortly after starting up again and again. The next day she started right up with a bit of starter fluid(through the MAF sensor port, MAF plugged in, resting in the crevice between the battery and airbox), which lead me to believe it was fuel related. Checked fuel pressure, and it was on par. Then when I hooked the fuel line back up, she started and ran again. I tried to get in and take her for a ride, only to find I could barely turn the wheel in P, and even more difficulty in D. Today I woke up and decided to go get new battery terminals. Hooked them up to the new battery and jump-started, after that no problems. It's been a very confusing few days, I can only hope she's done being difficult for a while.

04-17-2021, 05:54 AM	#14
Oilhoots I've made a post! Drives: Yaris Join Date: Apr 2021 Location: Regina Posts: 1	Im having similar issues with my car as well but from all CCT has been saying I'm guessing it's some kind of power issue some where along the wire or connections so a full inspection of it should lead me to the problem

06-23-2010, 07:44 PM	#15
bst82551 Drives: 2008 Flint Mica Yaris Sedan Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Augusta, GA Posts: 29	Have you checked your fuses?

06-23-2010, 08:59 PM	#16
big lo View User's Garage Drives: 2007 VIOS Join Date: May 2010 Location: Loiza,Puerto Rico Posts: 1,121	First off when did the problem accure? Did you have some work done to the car that needed some cables installed? Did you buy the vehicle used? The fuse box should be checked, and the battery as well, if the car runs its not the alternater, has to be the battery it might be low in charge.

06-24-2010, 12:05 AM	#18
brg88tx Drives: 07 Yaris Sedan, Auto Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: SE Texas Posts: 327	lemme guess, your electrical problems started right after you replaced your failed water pump....riiiiight.