best way to spend $3k

[spkrman]

getting to 100hp is "easy".

getting to 150hp n/a... you better be prepared for some serious rebuilding :)

and yes, internals can be had! there are alot of these motors around, its inevitable that someone will want to make power with one, and its inevitable that someone will want to make $ selling that guy some parts!

demand it and supply will follow :)

[paultyler_82]

The 1NZ-FE, as most Echo, xB, and xA tuners have found already, is a well tuned and robust little engine, its problems have always come from the poorly designed intake and exhaust portions bolted onto the engine, the factory designed pieces have always been restrictive, again, thats why header and properly designed intake will net quite a good gain with this engine, but there's only so much power to be freed up. As for internals, any pistons and rods designed for the xB, xA, and Echo should work. Just be glad we're not trying to tune a Versa here, from what I understand, with that MR18DE, tuning is pretty much impossible without a whole load of cash to back your efforts up, the computer runs the engine in a perpetual lean state.

[Tamago]

Originally Posted by paultyler_82

The 1NZ-FE, as most Echo, xB, and xA tuners have found already, is a well tuned and robust little engine, its problems have always come from the poorly designed intake and exhaust portions bolted onto the engine, the factory designed pieces have always been restrictive, again, thats why header and properly designed intake will net quite a good gain with this engine, but there's only so much power to be freed up. As for internals, any pistons and rods designed for the xB, xA, and Echo should work. Just be glad we're not trying to tune a Versa here, from what I understand, with that MR18DE, tuning is pretty much impossible without a whole load of cash to back your efforts up, the computer runs the engine in a perpetual lean state.

don't know if you know this, but the 1NZFE is not very robust.. fragile piston rods, and awkwardly long at that, causing weird side loading apon combustion. have you ever read the write up on the 1nzfe that ELprototypes did after fighting with engine after engine after engine?

[YarisPR]

Bottom line this 1.5L motor isn't make for lots of HP... get the famouse 1.8L from early years(1980 +) motor stack some Webber carburator and 65HP of NOS and live happy . And believe me those engines do have very very hard internals and potentials

[DTM_Yaris]

Originally Posted by Tamago

don't know if you know this, but the 1NZFE is not very robust.. fragile piston rods, and awkwardly long at that, causing weird side loading apon combustion. have you ever read the write up on the 1nzfe that ELprototypes did after fighting with engine after engine after engine?

I'd be interested in seeing this write up.
As I have done my own investigation on the 1NZFE.
Curious to know what you mean by "long" and side loading upon combustion.
Care to go into detail?

[Tamago]

Originally Posted by DTM_Yaris

I'd be interested in seeing this write up.
As I have done my own investigation on the 1NZFE.
Curious to know what you mean by "long" and side loading upon combustion.
Care to go into detail?

Turbo charging the 1nz-fe has proven to be chore. It responds to boost quite nicely with a properly sized turbo. But its downfalls are the internals and its engine management.
Lets touch on the internals. First and foremost are the rods. Although quite strong for their size, they are designed for normal aspiration only. A half point higher in compression is about all they can handle daily without failure. Once boost is added to the equation, it becomes Russian roulette as to when they will let loose. You may last eight months with 50,000 miles or blow it the first pass down the street; there are no warning signs. We know this because of the testing of our turbo kit for the last year. The testing started on the Echo then was transferred to a Scion. The testing was controlled and only once was it taken past its set 7-psi mark while in our possession. Its one time high boost pass on the dyno was done to see how much the turbo would produce at maximum efficiency. Fueling and timing were changed to handle this. Every month the pan was dropped and there were no signs of abnormal rod bearing wear. The compression was straight across the board every time. The first motor lasted 6 months with about 35,000 miles. Its life was cut short while at the paint shop. Rumors placed it at the local street races near the paint shop, which they had for 3 weeks. All the baked on rubber in the fender well was the first clue. It let loose on its way back from them. A fresh motor was installed ASAP to continue the testing. The old motor was broke down to find the rod broke right above the crank pin. The dangling rod was beaten into the walls and punctured holes on both sides of the block. The second one let loose 12,467 miles later. It had seen one race with 3 passes at 9 psi. Fueling and timing were also changed to handle this. Other than that it was daily driven. The rods let go again, the same way, only this time it punctured the water jacket and destroyed the head. These engines have the crankshaft offset 12mm to the thrust side of the cylinder bore centerline. This reduces the side force generated at maximum compression, for reduced friction and improved fuel economy. Toyota calculates the offset crankshaft configuration reduces fuel consumption by between one and three percent. Unfortunately, this throws the angle of the rod way out on its upward travel causing the rod to just give up under boost and snap. If there is any detonation or pre-ignition this breakage will occur at an accelerated rate. The movement and breakage of the cylinder walls is the same as Honda’s open deck. Although we have yet to split one, we designed a block guard just in case. This product keeps cylinders from moving around and from splitting open the top of the bore. We are currently designing a forged replacement rod as well as a rod piston combo for high boost applications. The first of the sleeved blocks is being tested now.
Now for the ecu. It cannot handle boost in its stock form. Its timing is set for the stock parameters only. It will not handle larger injectors either. Piggyback or stand-alone management is needed to fuel the turbo properly, end of story.
From what we have seen, these issues probably were found by the likes of Blitz and Greddy long before we did. That’s why the boost on their kits was so low. The stock injectors will supply enough fuel for 3 to 4 psi if the MAF reaches full voltage and gets the injectors to 85 percent duty. Unfortunately you end up with a 15:1 AFR at peak rpm this way. Good for passing emissions but bad for the motor. The RS turbo Vitz has an ecu calibrated for the larger injectors that feed 150 ps at the flywheel which in turn is 127 ps at the wheels. The blitz s/c was turning 122 hp to the wheels without an ecu for the US market. With the ecu (JDM only), the s/c put down 129 ps to the wheels. It seems like the kits are limited to 150 at the flywheel but no one says how long it will last. Our turbo kit produced 144 hp and 150 tq to the wheels. That’s 170 hp at the flywheel. We have worked with several management systems and we will inform the public of the best one for our kit. We will release our kit soon but cannot warranty it except for workmanship. This kit will push your engine over the edge in the long run but if you build it our kit will be able to provide up to 250 hp at the flywheel. That’s 217 at the wheels. With all this said, it is up to you, the consumer, to decide whether this kit is right for you.


Copyright © 2004 E.L. Prototypes
Last modified: 01/11/05

[H8SGAS]

good read

[cdydjded]

TAMAGO:
Great post but I still beleive that just because EL could not make it work does not mean it is not possible to safely boost the 1NZFE. ALL & I mean ALL motors have weak points. This is especially true when turbocharging a motor that was not designed for boost. A couple of issues come to mind when reading your post:
1) What was used to raise fuel pressure in relation to boost
These motors use returnless fuel system, was bigger injectors use? Was an electric FMU use?
2) What was used to lower timing in relation to boost
N/A cars use more agressive timiming to make HP, was a CAMCOM, SAFC, Standalone used?
3) What size turbo was being used
The T3/TO4 is the turbo of choice for most people, Was a turbo uses that can support 300, 400 HP?

I am in the process of turboing my Yaris. I will be runing 5-7psi with a Precision GT15 w/internal wastegate & a front mount I/C. I will have the kit done by the end of January. When finish I will be offering the kit for sale. I will be selling the kit for under 3K. It will be the most complete turbo kit made for the Yaris (and only 1 available). I will keep everyone informed on the progress.

[Tamago]

20valve 4AGE comes to mind or the 16V red hat 4AGE that went in the MR2's :D that engine revved happily to 8500rpm anytime i stepped on it

[03Z33]

Did someone say NOS? I think we have a winner!

[Tamago]

NOS is pretty impractical and illegal for most real racing..

[dngz]

i hope this will help some who are curious...

this is what i've spent and done concerning performance upgrades:

2007 Toyota Yaris Sedan S

WeaponR Short Ram Air Intake - total costed me $410 CAD
Megan Racing 4-1 Header- total $230 CAD
Custom 2" Catback Exhaust w/ Dynomax Muffler - total $605 CAD

Intake estimate around 10 hp gain } *
Header estimate around 6 hp gain } * estimate!! correct me if u differ
Exhaust estimate around 10 hp gain } *

That's already an estimate 26 hp gain! almost 25% increase!

Those upgrades only costed $1245 CAD and those prices includes shipping, bokerage fee (because i live in Canada), and even installation.

Maybe with the other $2000, you could get rims, lowering springs, and the sustec strut bar from tanabe..

And last, with all these installed, the fuel economy improves quite noticeably!

[punch]

Originally Posted by dngz

i hope this will help some who are curious...

this is what i've spent and done concerning performance upgrades:

2007 Toyota Yaris Sedan S

WeaponR Short Ram Air Intake - total costed me $410 CAD
Megan Racing 4-1 Header- total $230 CAD
Custom 2" Catback Exhaust w/ Dynomax Muffler - total $605 CAD

Intake estimate around 10 hp gain } *
Header estimate around 6 hp gain } * estimate!! correct me if u differ
Exhaust estimate around 10 hp gain } *

That's already an estimate 26 hp gain! almost 25% increase! !

i would say, nope, you probably gained 10hp with all those mods, but do a dyno and post the sheet up, and the proof will be for everyone to see...

[dngz]

Originally Posted by punch

i would say, nope, you probably gained 10hp with all those mods, but do a dyno and post the sheet up, and the proof will be for everyone to see...

it's gotta be more than 10hp!!! ill try and find a place to dyno.. if anybody know where I can get it done in Vancouver, BC, let me know!!

[Tamago]

i'll see if i can find it. EL prototypes disappeared recently but maybe someone archived it..

[bulldogs2k]

I say you keep the money in a risk free account, such as bonds, money market accounts, or even a CD. Or you can buy my S2000 and rev it to 9k rpms all day long.
A

[Tamago]

where in miami are you? i'd love to talk to you in person

[Fastnx]

Intake estimate around 10 hp gain } *
Header estimate around 6 hp gain } * estimate!! correct me if u differ
Exhaust estimate around 10 hp gain } *

What is this 'estimate' based on? Have you ever been to a dyno? If you are gaining 25% from I/H/E, you are making history.

There is a limit to how much power can be gained by simple bolt-ons. For example, look at the Megan header. The primary tubes are almost identical in length to the stock design, and are far too short to be optimized for this engine's powerband. Once again, you will be limited to how much power you can pick up from enlarging the primaries and cleaning up the flange and collector area.

Has anyone ever tried porting these areas of a stock header? The Celica GTS guys do this and have found gains comparable to aftermarket headers.

Also, take manufacturers' dyno charts with a grain of salt. It is very easy to manipulate the dyno results to your advantage, for example by picking the worst 'before' run and the best 'after' run.